Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Selling my RB25DET as a long motor for those parties interested. (I have all the other stock parts including the transmission..4 Speed Triptronic).

Reason: No Longer Need A RB25 In My GTT

Price: $1500 O.n.o (Very negotiable on price, as i'm not sure what it's worth, so throw me any decent offers, they'll be considered).

Location: Brisbane

Contact: 0422 859 505

Other Details: I have all other parts off this motor too, whole car in fact has only done 50,000 Kms scince new, with log books to proove if you wish, injectors etc etc, just ask and offer a price and it's yours.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262527-rb25det-neo-long-motor/
Share on other sites

how many km's?

would u part the block, since im very keen on your head only.

thanks mate.

Hi mate,

Engine has a total of 50,000 Kms, out of a 2000 Model R34.

I'd seperate only if I could have a buyer for the bottom end too.

Cheers,

Dallas.

More details as requested:

This engine is immaculate and is out of a 2000 ER34 25GTT 4 Speed Automatic.

Some things to note:

  • Genuine 50,000 Kms (Can provide service history on request)
  • Compression & leak tested in December 08, results were in line with the age & Km's of the car - meaning absolutley fine
  • Only modifications were; Exhaust, Intercooler
  • Never been boosted
  • I'm the second owner of this car from new, I purchased it with 29,000 Kms on her
  • Has absolutley no issues, has been checked over many times by several different qualified mechanics, all have said it's in excellent condition
  • Serviced every 5,000 Km's with either Motul oils or Royal Purple
  • Comes as a long motor, but I will throw in things like standard plenum, piping and such things for free if someone is keen

One more thing to note, it's best to contact me on my email [email protected], or via PM as i check these daily, whereas my phone has been stolen, and hence, disconnected.

hey champ just wondering if the 4 speed tiptronic would fit into and work in an r33? Not 100 per cent sure about it myself but would be an interesting venture. I would assume i would need the shift computer for it to run properly in the 33 cuz they dont have the tiptronic. Any info you may have on this subject would be much appreciated. Plz pm me with any info and a possible price for the box as well thanx mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...