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Yes its official. My Cefiro is POSSESSED! :P

Indicators dont work: in the process of fixing that...

Cluster gauges dont work: fixed (loose plugs at ecu)

Interior light: works sometimes but not lately

Wiper aways intermediate and stops half way: fixed (loose plug at ECU)

Almost stalls at idle after a good flogging: ???

Almost stalls when turning steering wheel at idle or parking: ???

No REV LIMITER: ECU decides to forget this feature after many times set by my tuner

And most of all... Hates to idle: no vacuum leaks (probably something to do with the tune or cold start valve)

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Mods List:

RB20DET Stock bottom end

Pod

Garrett GT30XX

Hi flowed exhaust manifold

3inch exhaust

3inch dump pipe

FMIC

Turbosmart BOV

ARP head studs

Cometic Multi layer head gasket

Rebuilt head

Unknown cam shafts

Adjustable cam gears

Triple core radiatior

Nismo raditator cap

Nismo 600cc injectors

GTR fuel pump

Turbosmart fuel pres reg

Braided lines to the turbo

Custom head oil drain line

19 row oil cooler and filter relocation

MicroTech LT10

Battery in boot relocation

RB20 gearbox

Unknown clutch

Unknown LSD

JIC coilovers-front(leaking)

Tien coilovers-rear

JIC castor rods

Cusco strut brace

Rays Volk 17x7.5 +32 front

17x8.5 +38 rear

Federals 595s

Monkey house URAS kit

Custom paint called blurple (black/purple)

Bucket seats

KKR deep dish steering wheel

Nismo gear knob

Apexi auto timer

HDi-SBC-D-Evolution

Stuff to be fitted:

Oil catch can

Water and oil temp gauges

Battery clamp

Fire extingusher

Wish list:

Tein super streets w/tops

or ISC N1 coilovers

Rear camber arms

HID 6000k

Cage

I bought it out of the spare of the moment last year after wanting one for about 4 years and had to have a sunroof, but it leaks :P

Been adding a few bits here and there, i had the head rebuilt when i blew a radiator hose at mach 2.1 on the highway and got the new radiator (old one was cracked) and put the GT30 on.

Trying atm to legally get it back on the street but it is my drift car and gets trailered to willowbank drifts. Needs another tune with the new laggy turbo and adjustment made to the cams to reduce it (i was running it of the actuator which was even more laggy, ebc made a big difference) but it makes around 250kws atw on 16psi

Cheers

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

UPDATE:

Saved up some cash while away with work then bought some goodies...

Buddy Clubs P1 f17x8 r17x9

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Volks will become my drift rims...

Silk Road Coilovers ordered

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Got BIGGER calipers for the front and some DIN gauges as well.

Thinking of coloured rims, possibly powder coating in some ridiculous colour. Rims will get 8mm spaces on them so they will hug the guards, bolted on with rays engineering lug nuts anodized red...

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

***Update***

Z32/R33 brakes are on with GTS slotted rotors and EBC Green Stuff pads. Cleaned them all up, took for ever with copper wheel on my drill, but came up sweet after spraying them in Hi Temp Paint...

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Before and After cleaning and paint stirping

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After a brake bleed, well actually several, there still seems like there is air in the system, not sure if its my proceedure bleeding it or my mater cylinder cant keep up with having bigger brakes. They came of a mates 180sx and worked fine plus he had no spongy brake pedal. They do pull up a hell of a lot better. Gonna look in to it more...

Also bled the clutch, had heaps of gunk in it, now clutch engagment is right at the end of the pedal travel(top). This is now 1cm high then what it used to be, so gotta get used to it...

Buddy Club wheels on the car, photo taken from my phone, but I added a red pin strip to give it that RAYS Volk Racing CE28N's look. Old volks are now my drift rims but need to buy some 25mm bolt on spacer as it scrubs the chassis rail even with 8mm spacers....

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This is how it sits atm, collecting dust in my car port, hasnt had a wash in 6 weeks now, been real lazy on it, so hard to get motivated when its been defected and no street driving argh...

Gauges are fitted and wired up, very important oil pres, oil temp and water temp. Cleened up some wiring under the dash, found heaps of scotch locks, hate thoughs damn things and removed some of the old sound system. Noticed after a few drives especially at night the oil temp got below 40C thanks to my oil cooler but it is damn too cold and kept a high oil pressure, but all drives were with no front bar, so might see if it makes any difference with it on and if it doesnt make any sort of change, I will probably make a cover for it so it so it doesnt stay so cold...

Still waiting on the Silkroad Coilovers, in the mail atm. Will have a write up on them before, going in and after install...

After coilovers are in, gonna get an engineering cert, then back on the streets and drive it to QR...

Will post new gauges and more wheel pics this w/e....

Cheers, Matt

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Were the brakes a direct fit? or did you need to change hubs, nuckles etc?

As for painting the rotors, wont that kind of just get stripped away pretty quickly .... ??

GTS Rotors ??

Looks mint man.

How much were your Coilies, and whats the specs?

I'm trying to find a street friendly set for mine, Tein dont make them, and I've been told to keep clear of H2s, and not to use S13's.

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Were the brakes a direct fit? or did you need to change hubs, nuckles etc?

As for painting the rotors, wont that kind of just get stripped away pretty quickly .... ??

GTS Rotors ??

Looks mint man.

How much were your Coilies, and whats the specs?

I'm trying to find a street friendly set for mine, Tein dont make them, and I've been told to keep clear of H2s, and not to use S13's.

Brakes were a direct fit, no changing hubs, or nuckles. Only thing I did extra was add a washer to space out the banjo fitting in the brake line to the caliper. If your going to do this I recommend removing the dust shield behind the rotor.

I only want to paint the centre part and outside of the rotor, after a few applications of the brakes the part were the pad is touching will be stripped away. I sprayed them back because im fitting bolt on spacers and black on black is hard to spot for the inspecting officer to see if you know what I mean...

GTS rotors, the are from a R32/R33 GTS Skyline non-turbo which uses 4 stud instead of 5, but you can use any rotor that will fit.

Coilovers were cheap, not bad cheap but good cheap. I source them from J-land and got them shipped over to Aus for a good price.

When buying coilovers you get what you pay for, if your gonna buy something cheap/average quality dont expect to much. S13 coilovers are fine, just as long as you get heavier springs to suit the RB20 motor. I think I went for 8kg front and 6kg in the rear, but it all depends on what you want and what you are gonna use it for. ie street or drift...

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Were the brakes a direct fit? or did you need to change hubs, nuckles etc?

As for painting the rotors, wont that kind of just get stripped away pretty quickly .... ??

GTS Rotors ??

Looks mint man.

How much were your Coilies, and whats the specs?

I'm trying to find a street friendly set for mine, Tein dont make them, and I've been told to keep clear of H2s, and not to use S13's.

Brakes were a direct fit, no changing hubs, or nuckles. Only thing I did extra was add a washer to space out the banjo fitting in the brake line to the caliper. If your going to do this I recommend removing the dust shield behind the rotor.

I only want to paint the centre part and outside of the rotor, after a few applications of the brakes the part were the pad is touching will be stripped away. I sprayed them back because im fitting bolt on spacers and black on black is hard to spot for the inspecting officer to see if you know what I mean...

GTS rotors, the are from a R32/R33 GTS Skyline non-turbo which uses 4 stud instead of 5, but you can use any rotor that will fit.

Coilovers were cheap, not bad cheap but good cheap. I source them from J-land and got them shipped over to Aus for a good price.

When buying coilovers you get what you pay for, if your gonna buy something cheap/average quality dont expect to much. S13 coilovers are fine, just as long as you get heavier springs to suit the RB20 motor. I think I went for 8kg front and 6kg in the rear, but it all depends on what you want and what you are gonna use it for. ie street or drift...

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Hey dude are you still having your brake troubles? cause in the photo of the caliper close up you can see the bleed nipple for the caliper is on the bottom of the caliper, this should be on the top so when you bleed it all the air comes to the top. so swap your calipers side to side and this should fix the spongy pedal

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Hey dude are you still having your brake troubles? cause in the photo of the caliper close up you can see the bleed nipple for the caliper is on the bottom of the caliper, this should be on the top so when you bleed it all the air comes to the top. so swap your calipers side to side and this should fix the spongy pedal

Haha yea, a mate noticed that just after that photo was taken, it was only a trail fit at that stage. The brakes werent on till I got the brake dust covers off first which involved getting the hubs off that were rattle gunned on so tight I broke 2 breaker bars.

Will do another brake bleed when I get my coilovers.

Good pick up, cheers.

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  • 3 weeks later...
i ended up changing my master / booster with r33 items to fix the spongy brakes , requires a tiny bit of modification , but nothing a decent backyard mech can't do :D

I might look into it if I find problems on the track. What did you have to do to make it fit? Ultimately I would like to get a Non Turbo 300ZX brake master/booster as they have more rear brake bias. A mate fitted one from a Nissan Partol and said it worked well but he had a bias adjuster in his 180SX...

Also, fitted the bolt on spacers which I'll be using for the track. Looks phat and no more chassis rail rub, yay...

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Cheers...

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