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1992 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M

- Registered until Feb 2010, has never been under defect and is roadworthy and legal.

- Fresh professional respray in 2pac satin black.

*Rear guards have been flared to accommodate for huge offset ^_^

- RB20DET under 100k

*Just had a service using a Ryco 145A oil filter and Fuchs GTO Titan oil.

*Timing belt will need doing soon.

- Genuine set of R32 floor mats.

- Automatic.

- Standard airbox with new K&N panel air filter.

- RB25DET Series 1 Turbo, ball bearing, steel wheel, can handle 14.7psi fine.

- Tube and Fin Front mount with custom piping.

- HKS 3" dump pipe.

- 3" stainless front pipe.

- 4" from the cat back.

- 4" Apexi Dunk Megaphone Rear Cannon (JASMA).

- Apexi EL2 Mechanical Boost Gauge.

- Powerup manual boost controller.

- New Sony MP3 Headunit (with AUX input for the pod of eyes.)

- Genuine Tomei adjustable front strut brace.

- Some sort of lowered springs in in the front, cant see a brand. Tanabe in the rear..

- Pair of Genuine Nismo [RAYS] LMGT2 17x7 +29 on the front, standard R33 stockies on the back. (will come with extra 2 std R33 rims to make a set)

- 4 pot brakes on the front, 2 pot on the rear, this could stop the Titanic.

Note;

-Rego is current till Feb 2010, no RWC.

-Missing a LHF indicator.

-Missing boot lock.

-Timing belt tentioner bearing is noisy, it will need to be replaced when you do the timing belt.

-Spare pair of DBA front disc rotors will come with sale.

-Spray job is worth a bit in itself.

-Its $500 for a manual gearbox.

Need a quick sale now.

$7300 open to offers and swaps.

Will consider swap for;

-SR20 180SX

-SR20 Silvia

-4 Door import

-Ute/Mini Truck

Located near Moe, Victoria.

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  • 2 months later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
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