Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Driveline Noise After Clutch Install

alex.a
 Share

Recommended Posts

alex.a Community Regular

alex.a

Posted
Posted

hey guys

need some help trying to track down an annoying driveline noise in my r32gtr.

started after i got my solid center twinplate clutch rebuilt.

strange noise, almost sounds like chirping tires!! happens when i release the clutch after a gear change and the revs have dropped or if i dump the clutch at low revs... squeek!!

i assumed i may have had some loose bellhousing bolts, allowing the gearbox to slightly vibrate against the flex/spacer plate (goes between bellhousing and block)when the clutch bites in.

i checked the bolts and found 2 semi loose ones, the rest are super tight... did them all up extra tight improoved the problem but its still there.

one thing is i remember there was a rubber gasket stuck to the flex/spacer plate i peeled off before i re-installed everything (it looked rooted)..

checked my engine/gearbox mounts and they are all fine... even replaced my greabox crossmember rubbers... no effect

if anyone else has had this problem please help!!!!

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
brand new spigiot... old one was shagged

Then the spigot was damaged on installation.

Who installed it and is the engine the same one from the car?

Is the flywheel the same one the car came with?

And how shagged was the old spigot and in what way was it shagged?

alex.a Community Regular

alex.a

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

old spigot as dry and picked up on the input shaft... looked like it had been bashed into place and damaged when fitted.

i installed the new spigiot and clutch. was extremly careful on install.

if there was spigiot damage then wouldnt there be constant noise??? as the crank is obviously always spinning?? what makes you say its spigiot??

the noise is not constant, only when the clutch is dropped hard or suddenly released when the wheel speed is higher then the revs... if that makes sense lol.

i checked the imput shaft for abnormal movement before i put the box back in also.... was all fine.

the clutch is a exceedy/nismo SOLID center twin-plate (harsh). it was rebuilt buy npc however the didnt reuse any part of the original clutch plates, they made up their own new units. i have the old ones at home.

the flywheel was machined and new flywheel bolts were used.

Edited by alex.a
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

I am suggesting spigot because that is the noise it will make when it is worn or incorrectly installed.

The noise is created because the input shaft is allowed to flex too much on the take up point.

When you say flex plate, are you referring to the spacer plate for the starter motor locating or a flex plate (which belongs on an automatic)

I know probably aren't referring to the latter but correct terminology will help.

If the gearbox was not on tight or straight then it would have immediately damaged the spigot bush. The noise will only be there when the input shaft is under high load at only a certain point when it is allowed to move on a horizontal plane.

So no, it won't be there all the time. It will only be there when you are halfway through the engage point just as the clutch takes up. Or on decel under the same conditions.

You don't still have the auto spigot in place and just bashed the new spigot into the whole did you?

I have seen it done before and it just crushes the spigot. You didn't answer the original engine/gearbox question so it's hard to tell.

How did you install the bush? Did you lubricate it correctly?

alex.a Community Regular

alex.a

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its a r32gtr as stated in origional post.

sorry yes i ment the spacer plate for starter location. its a strange metallic noise.. if im driving ans bleep the accelerator between gear changes it wont do it.

old spigiot was removed, and i got some sort of grease and a plastic/nylon dowel from a local gearbox shop. the dowel was used to tap the new spigiot into place. i put the spigiot into the freezer over night before the install to "shrink it" to allow it to insert into the crank.

when i installed the spigiot it wend in with an ease.

might pull the box out again and have a look at the spigiot if i get time.

thanks for your input anyway mate... i really appreciate it

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

1. Don't freeze the spigot. It needs to be an interference fit

2. Sounds like you didn't oil the spigot, so it's going to be dry as a muthaf**ka.

3. Why would you freeze the spigot. I mean, I know why but who gave you that advice?

Put the bush on the tip of your pointer finger. Fill it with engine oil right to the top. Then squeaze the top in with your thumb hard until the oil comes out through the sides of the bush. Now look at your properly oiled bush.

Then get a 3/8th drive 15 or 16mm deep socket and use the back end of it (where the wrench attaches) to tap it gently into place. You will notice it requires minimal effort.

Also, don't use anything but a genuine bush. There is a difference between them and other bushes. Aftermarket bushes are not as high quality.

alex.a Community Regular

alex.a

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes it was a genuine bush, i was told to freeze it so it would contract/shrink a little so it would fit in easier.

i packed it with the grease i was given and squeezed either side... its should have plenty of lube. anyway i will rip it out later this week and see whats goin on.

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...