Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got 2 brand new amplifiers for sale, both in plastics and boxes.

1) ROCKFORD FOSGATE PUNCH 401S

2 x 100 rms @ 4ohm

2 x 200 rms @ 2ohm

1 x 400 rms @ 4ohm

certificate says 426 rms.

MADE in USA on the 24th October 2003. Comes with remote bass controller. For more information, see

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/ez2/ModelIn...fo.asp?ItemKey= 10061224&CategoryDesc=Punch%20Amplifiers

was asking $450au. now ONLY $350au

2) HIFONICS BRUTUS BX1500D Class D mono AMP

1500rms @ 1ohm

1000rms @ 2ohm

500rms @ 4ohm

Comes with remote bass controller. HIFONICS 20th anniversary edition. Variable crossovers built in, subsonic filter, bass equalizationn etc. Be one of the few that owns this amp in Australia. For more information, see

http://www.maxxsonics.com/hifonics/amps_dclass.html

was asking $750au. now ONLY $650au

Buy both off me and i can give discount.

Located in melbourne.

As shown in pic below, only taken out to take pics.

amps.jpg

sorry, i don't need subs at the moment. The amp is bang for you buck, brand new in box and plastic, however, someone has offered me already 350au for it, it's considered sold pending confirmation by the buyer.

let me know if you're interested, if the deal falls through, you can have it. Or alternatively, make me a higher offer before the buyer confirms it.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...