Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I have my S2 RB25DET that I am tearing apart (after being imported) to bring everything up to new condition (or maybe a bit better ;) ). During the disassembly of the head, I noticed bumps in the exhaust ports right at the flange surface that go into the runners 3/4" or so. They seem like they might merely be a reinforcement of the exhaust stud holes, but it seems a bit overkill for such large bumps. Is it possible to port these all the way out? Is there perhaps a coolant jacket waiting to pounce on me if I try to remove them?

TIA,

Mark

Edited by WizardBlack
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297154-s2-rb25det-head-porting-question/
Share on other sites

The only reason they are there is to match the hump that's in the exhaust manifold. Loose it. That's really the only major thing that needs done for a street port on an RB25/26 head other than polishing the bowls and matching up the intake ports.

The only reason they are there is to match the hump that's in the exhaust manifold. Loose it. That's really the only major thing that needs done for a street port on an RB25/26 head other than polishing the bowls and matching up the intake ports.

Thank you for responding. I didn't even think of the factory exhaust manifold. Might I ask a few more questions?

In admiring the RB26 valvetrain, might you be able to install this into a 25 head?

Are the cam journal, height, etc. dimensions different?

How would the Tomei solid lifter setup in a 25 compare to a factory 26 valvetrain?

Does the Tomei lifter kit allow you to utilize 26 cams if you somehow deleted NVCS oil journals on the head?

The bottom line is I really want the solid lifter setup (like my previous engine; L28Et) of the 26; presuming that is most of the flow/rev difference between the Series 2 R33 RB25DET head and RB26DETT head.

Hey I have just pulled apart my car for a rb30 conversion and noticed the exhaust ports as well having the little bumps in the corners to direct the airflow for the standard manifold as well and decided to give the head a bit of a tidy up myself. I was wondering if anyone had any back to back results from a some minor port matching and polishing...I did do a search but only found a post where someone claimed that because of the restriction of the turbo being greater that it wouldn't make much of a difference

Wizard back can i ask what sort of mods you are doing? I think generally the stock 25 head is good for about 500rwhp standard with the appropriate turbo, if you are after considerably more its generally cheaper and easier to just buy a rb26 head, i dont think any of the rb26 parts from the head can be easily transferred to a rb25

Jarrod

Hey I have just pulled apart my car for a rb30 conversion and noticed the exhaust ports as well having the little bumps in the corners to direct the airflow for the standard manifold as well and decided to give the head a bit of a tidy up myself. I was wondering if anyone had any back to back results from a some minor port matching and polishing...I did do a search but only found a post where someone claimed that because of the restriction of the turbo being greater that it wouldn't make much of a difference

Wizard back can i ask what sort of mods you are doing? I think generally the stock 25 head is good for about 500rwhp standard with the appropriate turbo, if you are after considerably more its generally cheaper and easier to just buy a rb26 head, i dont think any of the rb26 parts from the head can be easily transferred to a rb25

Jarrod

I am after as much as I can get; just like anyone else. :-) In all seriousness, I am just tearing the entire engine apart (after importing) to clean it all up and rebuild. My car was at 2500 pounds (with a full tank) before switching from an L28Et to the RB25DET, so I'd imagine 400 whp sounds good. At the moment, this is just the basic stuff to get it into the car. I don't plan on taking the head back off when I upgrade the turbo, etc., so I wanted to get it fixed up now. When I have all the supporting stuff done, I was considering swapping to an RB26DETT. Getting a 26 head by itself is not cheap in my neck of the woods, unless I can coax an SAU member to export to me. :-) I could always export some Summit stuff in return (since I am in the same state with them). :-)

I suspect no one has a back to back comparison since you usually do much more than just that for a dyno check.

Edited by WizardBlack

Are you in Ohio? I'm from Cleveland! 26 head casting flows the same as a 25 BTW. Only advantage is solid lifters, different cams, and the intake. You can do all of those aftermarket style, but the solid lifters are vastly over rated for a street car with mild cams and a smallish turbo IMHO. So are the ITB's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...