Jump to content
SAU Community

Wanted R31 Lower Control Arms & Steering Arms

Daewoo

By Daewoo,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
Posted

Is it correct that R30 Skyline Lower Control Arms don't have replaceable ball joints???

I have a couple of R30 ones that I need to get lengthened to give me 2 1/2 degrees negative camber. I stuffed the boot for the balljoint seperating the steering arms.

I have now been told that the ball joints aren't replacable, so what I need to do is graft the outer end of an R31 lower control arm onto the inner end of an R30 one.

Anyone got a couple of R31 LCAs lying around that they would like to donate to a purebred race car like only an MR30 Hatch. can be???

Apparently R31 Steering Arms are good as well as they are shorter and therefore speed up the rack, if anyone has some...

Cheers,

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted
Buy new R30 arms for about $70

And lengthen them each time he wants to replace the ball joints?

Hey, Daewoo. Are you going to rose joint the inner end too? In that case, you don't need to graft the inner end off the R30 arm onto the R31 arm. That will give you fine adjustability in the length (to the tune of about +/- 5mm to be safe). Just put a big fkoff motorsport bearing in there (3/4" works well - wouldn't go too much smaller). Might need a sleeve for the inner pivot though.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Buy new R30 arms for about $70

I guess $70 isn't too bad, but still almost 33% of the value of the car :huh: ...

And lengthen them each time he wants to replace the ball joints?

Hey, Daewoo. Are you going to rose joint the inner end too? In that case, you don't need to graft the inner end off the R30 arm onto the R31 arm. That will give you fine adjustability in the length (to the tune of about +/- 5mm to be safe). Just put a big fkoff motorsport bearing in there (3/4" works well - wouldn't go too much smaller). Might need a sleeve for the inner pivot though.

No rose jointing or anything, I don't need it to be adjustable... after years of cars with adjustable suspension, my experience is, I, and most people never adjust it anyway once they get to a setting they like... I like the idea of grafting an R31 LCA on if that would allow me to change balljoints when needed... I would probably be happy with just a new boot for the balljoints that I screwed... the ball joints both seemed OK...

Cheers,

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Correct - no adjustment needed after you set it up to your liking. However, unless you jag it, or know from previous experience, how will you know when it's right? It took me about 3 changes to finally get the front end of the RX2 the way I liked it. After that it was set and forget tho, and I totally agree with you there.

Sounds like a moot point anyway - doesn't sound like a big budget track weapon you're building there.

Do you mean the rubber boot that goes over the ball joint? You can buy them in assorted sizes from any parts store, or a suspension specialist for more precise fitting sizes.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Correct - no adjustment needed after you set it up to your liking. However, unless you jag it, or know from previous experience, how will you know when it's right? It took me about 3 changes to finally get the front end of the RX2 the way I liked it. After that it was set and forget tho, and I totally agree with you there.

Sounds like a moot point anyway - doesn't sound like a big budget track weapon you're building there.

Do you mean the rubber boot that goes over the ball joint? You can buy them in assorted sizes from any parts store, or a suspension specialist for more precise fitting sizes.

I appreciate the info, and I will see if I can get just the boot...

You are right, this isn't any big budget racer... I have a $30K Pulsar Rally Car sitting unused 'cause I don't have the money to move it forward, and it isn't worth anything to sell... this is the $500 beater that needs to take a kicking and keep asking for more :cheers: ...

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

More info on the pulsar please :P

FWD or GTiR?

Trying to find a new rally car is proving very difficult. Am even considering going to the "dark side" (FWD) as good RWD cars are very thin on the ground, and generally overpriced (seems all the cashed up midle aged rally nuts are reliving their glory days and paying top dollar for all the old classic RWD rally cars :P )

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
More info on the pulsar please :(

FWD or GTiR?

Trying to find a new rally car is proving very difficult. Am even considering going to the "dark side" (FWD) as good RWD cars are very thin on the ground, and generally overpriced (seems all the cashed up midle aged rally nuts are reliving their glory days and paying top dollar for all the old classic RWD rally cars :P )

I thought that must be you from BMSC... can't be too many 'warps' around...

N15 - i.e. FWD only.

I bought it as a rally only import it in '97 after I won the under 2L 2WD state champs in my 1600...

GoodCar.jpg

$8000 at the time for a damaged front and rear 1500 Auto was a good price, imagine what you could get for that money now :P

Converted it to an Aus delivered 2L manual, but then was convinced by Lee Petersen that I had to use a U13 Bluebird gearbox which turned into an engineering nightmare... meant changing the uprights, also had to change the rear hubs, spacers machined, gearbox mounts all moved, driveshafts shortened, now the steering is all f^cked up because the steering arms in the front hubs are much longer... and you can't get an LSD for it, which you could for the smaller standard GB...

Finally got it all going and blew up the engine first khanacross... trying to use the 1500 radiator... bought and fitted a new engine but haven't had it tuned again... Wife, kids, mortgage and long work hours just mean nothing ever gets done...

It does have Autoronics, Proflex and a log booked Chrome Moly Cage built by Hyundai Ralysport before they closed down...

These days don't have the money to use it (wouldn't be any good for much other than rallying i.e. fast but not sideways for fun, and rallying is just too expensive these days), so can't be bothered spending the last few $1000 it would take to get it ready for competition...

It owes me a shedload of cash and costs me nothing to keep in the mates chook shed, so I don't see the sense in selling it for a pitance which is all a 95% complete, untested, undeveloped, unproven car would fetch...

BadCar.jpg

You are right about all the RWD cars getting silly money... and even if you buy one, the cost of parts is silly... that is why I like the R30... IRS so it gets good traction, all the right Datsun driveability and reliability (unlike the R31s I play against in the State Khanacross Championships), and cheap as chips... only thing is, when I was playing with Datsuns, everyone had bits they would give and swap, and the wreckers had heaps of cars to give stuff away to competition guys... now days, I don't have those sorts of contacts....

The excel series seems like a good thing, but it will only be a matter of time before someone starts throwing 10s of thousands at it like the did with the Gemini Series and f^ck it for everyone...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
I bought some Dr30 Balljoints from datsport...Came in the Mail yesterday

Ummmmmm ................ how you do that?

The ball joint in R30 lower control arms is pressed in & not replaceable and the only replacement Datsport does is for C210.

What did you get for your money?????

D

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Why is the DR30 BJ non replaceable? Is it because it's press in, or some other reason? All the early RX Mazdas had press in ball joints, and these are readily available. I would think that if you can press the old joint out of the arm, then you would be able to fit a new joint.

Daewoo - yeh I've been struggling with what sort of rally car to get. I don't want an AWD, as then I'd have no excuse for being slow. I sold the RX2 through frustration at trying to keep a nearly 40 year old car reliable, although I actually had it running very well by the time I sold it. That's why I was toying with building a GTSt. I had thought of a Silvia, but they are becoming more common, and within a few years I think they'll be like 1600's.

Thing is, to build a GTST will cost me near on $30k (by the time I use good quality stuff) and for that money, I can buy a very competitive EvoRex.

At the moment, a tarmac car appeals, and I'm giving serious consideration to an FD RX7. These are a great starting point, and for minimal mods are almost unbeatable on a race track. The guy I bought the RX2 from built an FD rally car (which now resides in Cairns) and that thing is a weapon on dirt too.

Decisions, decisions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...