Ghostrider

Just sent a PM if you're still looking

My parts book says #72712-27S00 for the hardtop Laminated Windscreen and it's still priced in Japan at about $600.00 I have asked Macarthur Nissan in Campbelltown to check if it is available and I will advise when I know more. PM me with a contact number. Cheers, Dennis

PM Sent

How many have you found Peter?

R30 steelies were 5.5JJ x 14 & Ti alloys were 6 x 14 +25 offset and when I was tracking my 180B SSS series production car back in 73/74 wheels were free so long as same type and track stays the same, eg: steel use alternative steel. After Selby's did their magic I had 6 x 14's all round custom built using 240K centres.

Why didn't you ring me? Cazz has my DR in Melbourne and I think it's at GMS for parts

Hi All, I'm looking for 15" R31 steel wheels to use as trailer wheels. In Sydney please. Cheers

Mic, He will want it for next to nothing and it will be going to Kuwait as parts. He was offered my Paul Newman @ $20000.00 but isn't interested in anything much later than S1 and preferably no later than C210/211.

PM Sent

I got them to lol

PM Sent

PM sent

You did & your dead for it! Enjoy! You can take your smart arse comments and put them where your mother never kissed you for mine. Your the looser, not me! You want & now you got to find them so have a nice day! I have all the gauges you would ever need, Japanese out of my DR 2nd hand including all fittings, or new VDO. The VDO are sensor driven & therefore better in my opinion, but some disagree and the Japanese are mostly capillary style. And 300ZX ECU's, but your never going to get them from me. If Peter had have bothered, he would have found I have a relatively new Adaptronics ECU that was in my DR30 complete with wiring harness, set up by Mark at MRC Dyno, Castle Hill for FJ20 who was my tuner, but as usual he chose to operate in a way that he looses, interesting attitude I think. I have 2 Adaptronic ECU's, but I'll find a use for them soon enough. Far to many dickheads on SAU now as you're just one and that's why I don't come here very often

Go away little girl! It has nothing to do with selling parts, but everything to do with a little common courtesy of which Peter displayed, he has none of. All he had to do was say he didn't want any of it and it was over, but what I got was lots of empty promises. AND mister Abdul11, you're looking for R33 parts for a track build, well sucked in, I probably have half of what you want and could get the rest if needed, but you can go suck eggs. Enjoy!

Brandy, If your going to put all the turbo bits off your L20ET onto an L24E, just use the same ECU and all will be good, but an L28ET ECU would be better, but if your trying to make your L20ET into n/a you need a new ECU L24E or L28E. If you still need wiring diagrams I can probably copy them for you. Cheers, Dennis

I can see a lot of WANKER factor in this car build! I must be really missing something in what I read ................ IP regs state uprights are free, so I can run anything as long as I don't run spherical bearings etc. Posted 14 December 2012 - 11:12 AM ........................ your bump steer kit has SPHERICAL BEARINGS????????? Based on the PJR Group A cars which in race trip produced over 400HP using the factory turbo & manifold and fitting 17 x 9 Castalloy rims under original factory carriagework. You getting this Peter, no FLAIRS, no PIPE MANIFOLD, no After Market TURBO, and more HP than your using????????? Further to this, you got in touch with me about the FJ20 engine I have in bits, sent me text messages that you WILL NOT BE DICKING ME AROUND, but would not come out to buy, without somebody holding your hand to make sure you had everything you needed, you asked me to wait till you came back from the US, which I did and you made promises that you were still interested and still wanted to buy, I even sent you a list of the parts which was similar to the list that appears in this thread back on about page 2, bored block, ARIAS pistons & rings, crank, spool rods, 2 x cylinder heads, 2 x rocker covers, flywheel, sandwich plate, front housing, inlet manifold cam pulleys and various nuts & bolts, plus brand new in the box Siemens Dekka 570cc 14mm o'ring injectors along with whatever bits you needed off the motor in the car for the princely sum of $2000.00. Now you don't answer your phone, you don't return text messages, you just ignore me completely. SO YOU HAVE BEEN DICKING ME AROUND ALL THE TIME EH????????????????????????????????????? YOU'RE A DOG and should be out chasing cars barking at tyres instead of building one. I could have supplied you with genuine ex Japan DR30 guard flairs, but you bought Corolla ones and have to BOG 'EM to fit, I have a new Exedy 4 puck clutch you could have had cheap, but not your style huh! Hope your happy, because I think your just another cashed up, would be if he could be WANKERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Glenn, I have a VG30 Z32 box you can have at a good price

Last 2 weeks felt like I should be dead!

So I guess what you wanted from me is a NO GO huh?

JFI All L series 6 cylinder engine blocks are the same external dimensions BUT! An L20A cannot be bored to L24 spec of 83mm and similarly an L24 block cannot be bored to L28 spec of 86mm as there is not enough metal in the bores. And L24 & L26 blocks share the same bore of 83mm and by using an L28 crank and suitable rods an L24 can be stroked to over 2600cc. In the US, they have bored an L28 block to 89mm and created an L31, but not turbo, normally aspirated only as they have found in most cases, the bores are to thin and become porous when boost pressures from turbo charging is applied.

OH! IF you want your L20ET to go like hell, toss it away and build an L24ET. The ozzie L24E block has a front sump and the options are endless up to over 2600cc

EBAY .................................. It's an L20A

The ET part of it is identical to the L28ET in the US and I have the US 280ZXT workshop manual, just smaller turbine & there is often L20A manuals on ebay, just some sellers think they have something really rare and want the earth for them.

It's easy enough doing it the way they are saying. Just be very careful when pushing it out as it is laminated and will tend to fold around the pressure point, as opposed to the old toughened glass was sorta like pushing on a board. I cut mine out with a knife as I have a very flexible knife with about a 4 inch blade. Whichever you choose, just do it slowly and when you get impatient, go have a beer and cout to whatever.