Ghostrider

Hi Guys, I have an HR30 Paul Newman and presently I have DR30 front and rear brakes. DR fronts are 284 x 22 with single piston calliper and DR rear are 290 x 10 single piston calliper. The rears are identical to Z31 Turbo rears and are simply BOLT ON, after fitting hatch rear trailing arms. ALL THESE BITS CAN BE SOURCED THROUGH SSS Automotive at Girraween NSW (02) 9896 6111. The front strut assemblies about $500.00 pair. My rears are staying as is, DR30, but my fronts are going to be upgraded after engineering to R33 GTR V Spec, 324 x 30 with 4 spot callipers, reason! have to put a 20mm spacer into your front wheels to clear the 4 spot calliper and any spacer in NSW is illegal. My GTR front conversion is being done by Specialised Clutch & Brake at St Mary's NSW. When doing this upgrade, you also would be best advised to change the master cylinder. Prior 83, use the TOKIKO 1 inch bore and 83/85 use the 720 ute 15/16 bore. everything else can stay stock. An upgrade on pad compound is also a very good idea. If going to EBC Green Stuff for example on the front, it is considered a 35% increase in efficiency just by changing the pad compound and use EBC Black on the rear. You will be very impressed with the improvement using these combinations and the good thing is, the DR bits are just BOLT ON. If sloted rotors are used, that's a further upgrade. Happy hunting

Sorry Guys, As I am in NSW I can only give their regs, but as a thought, maybe speak to the guys at Jaustech or Japanese Motorsport. As they are into modified cars, Jaustech in particular doe a few R30's, they might be more up to speed. Good luck, Dennis

Forget that DR30 HKS Intercooler at Option 1 Garages guys, I just bought it for my HR30 Paul Newman. RSX84, Matt, tried to send you pics of my 260 Speedo & front bar, but your hotmail address is either full or has fatal errors, as I could not send it to you, it was returned. Something that is a surprise to me! we all have an ISP otherwise we can't be online, but so many people persist in using Hotmail email addresses. WHY????????? Dennis

Mike Cash, The 100 mm rule IS NOT THE BE ALL AND END ALL, so be careful. In NSW there is a MINIMUM distance between the centre of your headlights 9no matter on or off) CENTRE OF HEADLIGHTS to the ground. Check with your local authorities, like an inspection station that you know, and get the guts from them. If the headlight to ground minimum is complied with, it also has to have a minimum ground clearance of 100 mm, but the headlight distance is THE MOST CRITICAL. I have an MR30 Ti Hatch lowered 50 mm at the front and no problems. BUT do it right, get new springs, don't cut the originals. Dennis

Ypu need the 6 cyl crossmember. And the only RB25 bits are head +. The block is RB30, but standard R31 Skyline mounts have been used so far, but am not sure that I am happy the way the engine sits. I will look into it further as I get closer to completion

RSX, I'm building the motor myself, using RB25DET ARIAS forged pistons in an otherwise reworked standard bottom end. Have ported the head, still standard valves and GTR spec valve springs, about 270 degree cams, adjustable cam pulleys and a Garrett GT35/40 turbo. Using about 18/20 psi and front mount intercooler, I expect to have about 340Kw at the wheels. BUT for compliance of Engineers certificate and emmissions testing, it will be using std RB25DE 270 injectors, stock R32 RB20DET ECU and a VG30 Turbo, on std manifolds The bottom end will be race ballanced, GTR front pully, the clutch, a single plate full faced kevlar, about 1000kg load pressure plate, 10.5 inch dia, using a VL Turbo steel billet flywheel. Water pump has been removed and replaced by Davies Craig electric pump, RB30 power steer pump with remote reservoir. I have a standard RB20DET R31 gearbox, for rego purposes and after, have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox, but this has an electronic speedo drive, so have to do some homework to get my 260 speedo operational with new R33 gearbox.

RSX84, If you have the vertical barrel type gauges, you have an 82 dash, Instrument cluster. 83/4/5 clusters used a quadrant type gauge and that is the type I have. My Paul Newman is an 84 and has the quadrant gauges. As I said earlier, Jenesis WILL NOT TRADE with us again, as he considers the Japanese domestic market is more than he can handle. Which boot badges are you looking for, I might have what you want second hand, as I had a DR30 sedan I wrecked. SSS Automotive has the DR front brake/strut assemblies for about $500.00 pair. I have a set of JIC Coilovers for my HR, I bought them through Japanese Motorsport in Adelaide for $1300.00 all four, off an DR30, complete with brakes etc. The Dr30 calipers are also bigger, still single piston, but use a bigger pad than standard, DB1184 I think, will confirm later if needed. I have a front air dam you might like to see, email me and I will send you a pick, but it is the same as one on current Jenesis web site. I am going to make them in limited numbers later this year and should be available for about $300.00 each.

Stu, I bought from them, the 260 kph Speedo on exchange. Had to send mine over to japan and they prepare it and return it as 260K model, New R/S guard badges, DOHC RS boot badge,3 x R30 plastic models (I am building a series of models, the Aust Gibson Racing Skylines, all replicas of the actual race cars), the R/S blanket and the only way to get them now, is from japan. The manager won't trade international, as they are far to busy with the domestic market, little does he know, his domestic market is probably coming here. As for the tacho, I don't know what he did, I will ask next week, but it is now working as a 6 cylinder one. The boost gauge (actual only vacuum gauge) I have removed and replaced with the volt meter from the hatch dash and it's all been wired in and working.

The OZZY tacho only goes to 8000, but it is for 6 cylinder, the 9 & 10000 tachos are 4 cyl and have to be modified here to suit the 6. I have the 260 kph speedo & 9000 tacho, modified by Macarthur Instruments to suit 6 cylinders.

STU, To get an RB to spin to 10 grand it will cost about double that.

Some startling facts for everyone. ALL R30 SKYLINES WERE FULLY IMPORTED into OZ.

I have an MR30 Ti Hatch, as it was my original project vehicle, before acquiring the HR30 Paul Newman. Lower it using R31 front and rear shocks & inserts, they are 30mm shorter stroke at rear and 42mm shorter on the front. Get your springs custom made, I have lowered mine 40mm rear and 50mm front, with 200lb/in rear springs and 250lb/in fronts, increase the dia of the front sway bar to 22 or 23mm. Leave the rear standard. get a set of 6.5 x 15 wheels if staying relatively stockish/stealth, as the 205/60 x 15 performance tyres, sit better on 6.5's than on stock 6's. For cheap go fast find an L20ET engine and bolt on all the turbo bits onto your L24E engine. If you get the L20ET ECU use that, it will do it's job very well, if you can get a 280ZX turbo ECU, it's better. Don't use boost much over about 7 psi, as the comp is higher in the L24E engine. Now you will have something that will hold it's own with a stock REX and handle extremely well, depending on your ability, you might just be faster point to point than a REX. Brake upgrades, DR30 fronts & rears are just bolt on options and they work very well, they are the same specs as Z31, so look them up on the DBA web site.

dr30man I am in the throws of doing the RB30/25 DET hybrid conversion and basically, the main problem is the need to fabricate a new gearbox mount. The RB engine will sit on an Aust delivered MR30 L24E crossmember using the standard R31 engine mounts. I might have to use one R31 & one R30 mount to get the angle right, but it's just a bit of stuffing around. If you are as mechanically illiterate as you claim, it would pay to get some help.

STU_R30 I got one of these speedo's, but don't hold your breath getting another, short of about $1000.00. Jenesis, doesn't want to and isn't interested in trading internationally as they consider there are far to many problems with money transfers etc, etc. Email me on [email protected] and I will show you a front bar that might appeal to you. I might be making them in limited numbers later this year, but don't want it copied as I would like to keep some anonominity to our R30's, don't what every R30 running around with this front on it, just the beasts.

AS most know, I have an HR30 coupe, but I have acquired a R31 GTS oil cooler and would like to know where it mounted to the body. CAN ANYONE HELP???

That's ok, but sorry, not wide enough, I want a set of 17's for track use but have to be 9.5 for 245/40's rear and 8.5 for 235/40 fronts.

Driver: 17 x ????? and How many dollars?

Mike Cash Thanks

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have an R200 viscous LSD here, 3.692:1, think it's same as R33, S13, R32, S14. It's up for grabs @ about $200 if interested. Cost me $450

What wheels you got 4 sale

Does anyone know the specs on the GTS R Clutch from an HR31 Skyline? Need to know the diameter and full load pressure in kg. Thanks.

MIKE CASH When you did this conversion, did you have to do anything with the clutch master cylinder position, or did it stay where it was etc. I am in the process of building an HR30 Paul Newman with similar, only going to RB30/25 hybrid DET. As for clutch upgrades, the choice is endless depending on the money you want to spend. I am using a flywheel from Castlemaine Rod Shop, designed to use the 10.5 inch VL Turbo clutch. The cover has been made with over 1000kg full load and the drive plate Kevlar faced. Considering the standard MR30 clutch is only 8.8 inchs and 450kg full load, it makes a very tidy upgrade. As it is untested at present, I think it will be better than any paddle clutch used on the street today and comparable to twin & maybe triple plate clutches and a stack of dollars cheaper. As for original question, re turbo, I have an MR30 Ti Hatch with L24ET, the turbo was the standard T025 off the HR30 and it keeps up with any stock REX, it handles better than most rex's due to my suspension mods. The parts are relatively easy to get, they are all BOLT ON from the L20ET motor. If your serious, I might know where there is all the bits you need, in Sydney. I am soon to try a GT17 on it, as the GT17 is ball bearing, it is about the same size, but should spool up a lot faster reducing the lag to nearly nil. I don't have much time for the L28 engine because after looking at the specs, it only has an extra 10HP over the L24E motor, I don't think the cost factor is worth the change. The MR30 L24E has 93.4 Kw (125HP) the L28 from 280ZX has 135HP. With the mods suggested by Phat R30 your L24ET would probably blow away a stock rex. NOW! wouldn't that put a few noses out of joint.