Ghostrider

Hi Guys, Went to the first official cams approved drift meet at Oran Park this afternoon. It was very entertaining and makes me wonder wether my HR may be suited for just this relatively NEW form of motorsport. There were a few guys down from Queensland, the popular pick were Nissan Silvias & 180SX's. A couple of AE86 Toyota Sprinters, a couple of R32 Skylines and a lonely Mazda MX-5 made up the field of 20 strong. The MX-5 won the day, but was far from the best on the day. In D1 rules, it's 2 car teams, one leads out, does a warm up lap, then point scoring lap and the 3rd, cool down lap, then they swap leaders and go around again, same deal 3 laps. BUT!!! if you do a loose, it's instant disqualification on that point scoring run and a loose is anything that stops the continuous forward motion. Doesn't have to be a crash or 180, but just to get past the point of no return. The BEST and most entertaining was a guy in an Burgundy S13 Silvia, he was by far, the stand out performer on the day, but his tyres were very low in his final couple of runs, to the point of sparks coming from the steel belts and in his final rounds did a couple of looses, hence NEVER made the final. That was a shoot out between the MX-5 and an S13 180SX, of which the MX-5 was the eventual winner, by popular vote, Cheers from the crowd. Sundays event should be very entertaining. Sorry guys, no pics, as I don't own a digital camera, but for Sunday, I will resurect the old motorsport gear (Canon SLR & 500 mm lens) and get some stills for you to see. :ghost:

But if I had to guess, I would say coil pack to plug, hence go to each coil pack thru firing order 1 5 3 6 2 4

STU Going to DRIFT meet at Oran Park now! but will ask the MANWELL when I get back and let you know. :ghost:

Only one problem I can see with what you've done. That's bought DBA Rotors!!!!! Last set of DBA Rotors I went to buy had a little yellow note inside. "NOT WARRANTED UNDER RACE CONDITIONS - WARRANTY VOID IF USED FOR RACING" After seeing that, I now buy BREMBO or other imported, that don't place that restriction on their product for less! Ducting, just use a piece of plastic down pipe, or flex pipe, or do as I have and take the back plates off. RSX, Don't know that I would use Bendix anything, EBC & ENDLESS are only about $150 a set. But $1000 on good brakes is a good investment I think. The BNR32 GTR fronts are going to cost me about a grand to fit. :ghost:

I would rather spend the grand on something else, like DOT 5 Brake Fluid and EBC or ENDLESS or equally as good other pad compounds and slotted rotors. Maybe some ducting to cool the disc rotors as well.

Just got a Ball Park figure to fit BNR32 GTR rear brakes to our R30 IRS rear trailing arms from Specialised Brake & Clutch at St Mary's NSW. That being about $1000.00 give or take!

The AFM is located at the bottom of your airbox AND I would be very surprised if it went at all! without it. The ECU is located in the passenger side inside kick panel and it is Engine Control Unit and without this, IT NO GO AT ALL. Forget the resistor, you get suckered into buying the 20Kw performance pack on ebay????? They only work in temperate conditions, if like today, "a stinker, HOT HOT HOT. it won't do anything more than eat a sh#t load of fuel. As for RB coil, don't know, ask an auto electrician, but if it's the bosch coil, can't see a problem, but difficult to use the EFI coil packs. :ghost:

If your using high power globes, you have probably burnt the contacts on the switch, or somebody has at some time. I have, an extra loom that came with my original iron mask front cut, an extra loom just for the lights. It draws power from the main circuit breakers, but has a 30 amp relay for each globe and the loom is about an inch thick. But the globes I'm using are the latest & greatest from IPF in Japan. Mains 55 W input/ 145 output and high beam, 80W input/ 165 output, but still using the extra loom to be safe.

In the engine bay, next to the firewall?????? If you are above it looking over the o/s/f guard and it sits below the light relay on it's own, like at the bottom below 2 other relays, you don't need it unless your an AUTOMATIC (heaven forbid matthew) because it's the inhibitor relay, according to the manual. But if you are looking at it from the n/s/f guard and it has some wires connected at the side of it, it is the horn relay. Does this help? You should have a manual, I got a spare that I got with my car if your interested. :ghost:

Strange as it may sound but, What NSW Club??? And have bought some from Street Weapons

PHaT, Your car would look cool with the DR front spoiler

MONEY TRANSFERRED ONLINE! Will take a few days to reach your account. :ghost:

What sort of grille are you looking for???? The early stock 5 row, or later 3 row, or Iron Mask. :ghost:

The POVERTY PACKS have a black background, but they are only available from BROWN interiors. I am going to use them and change the colour of the trim to maybe carbon fibre look, or just paint them to suit my BLACK dash.

We have had many a discussion on this about R32 brakes on R30's. I recently spoke to a couple of guys, very big in rallying with 1600's and upwards. When I bounced the theory of them, their answer was this: It will be a very expensive exercise and unless your going to RACE it, why bother, the Z31 rears can be made fit relatively easily and at a fraction of the cost. As for BALANCE etc, as posted by slip, may I just say, The DR30 Skylines raced in the late 80's by Fred Gibson Motorsport, driven by George FURY and Glen SETON had the following brake specs: Fronts 335 x 32 ventilated and Rears 290 x 25 ventilated, all 4 spot callipers, but REMEMBER, THIS WAS A FULL ON RACE CAR. I have been investigating the option, but discounted it due to cost and value, for what the car will be used for.

Robs/Kevs page is fairly informative and Rob's car is still under development. And the site will probably be upgraded when it goes back on the road again, but he hasn't done the brake conversion we have on this site, he hasn't done the body conversions, or suspension, mostly his mods are of standard available parts as opposed to Jap import TRICK BITS. AND >>>>> SIDE SKIRTS >>>>> Might have the Jenesis ones here in a few months, so we can see what I can organise for copies. RSX, Your Avatar, IS IT YOUR CAR????

AND by the way, 90db is the go!

Just got the good guts JAMES. Position of mic is 45 degrees @ 500mm (1/2 metre) level with the exhaust outlet Stationary engine revs 75% of MAX POWER DELIVERy. This means, NOT REDLINE, but factory specs, max HP @ ???? rpm. 75% of the max power limit. GO STICK THAT IN THEM, you might not have to change your system at all. My engineer is suggesting about 4 g's would be the max rpm required. Just a suggestion, Go see the ENGINEER that did the bus when it was imported, it would have had to comply for COMPLIANCE.

James, What does an R33 RED LINE AT??? Take 75% of that and there should be the rev limit for testing. My HR30 Tacho red lines at 7000, in 9000, but it's for the FJ20 DET 4 cylinder. Even so! 75% of 7 G's is only 5250, but didn't you say you had to go to 5400, that makes your red line 7200. From factory, it wouldn't be that high, SURELY?????

That's about right, all but for the RPM. Our test here in NSW to comply with ADR 27A is: Microphone Position: @ 45 degrees & 500mm outboard, @ 280mm high @ 3500 rpm or 75% of max power.

Another concern is! How do you suggest possible 420rwhp from a 500hp compressor, when it is perceived that a loss of 30% is not uncommon through the drive train

SOLD!!!!! I recon I can do that. Tell me how to pay you, either online Direct Deposit, will need a BSB number, ACCOUNT number and NAME of account, or how else. Let me know. Dennis

Daniel, Don't want to be very condescending, but these can be bought straight out of Garret for $1900.00 with warranty.

Don't know about the cat, as I will have to have a NEW one for emmissions testing, but the stock dump sounds ok. How much money??? for pipe preferably, but both if necessary to go together.