Ghostrider

Hi Guys, We have had an in length discussion on brakes on another post, all the time some getting rather confused and heated at the same time. We discussed effectiveness on different sizes and set ups, comparitive solutions, best or worst, recommended or not. Rear brake rotor diameters, better than others etc, etc, etc. I was all but crucified for my sticking to the fact that our DR30 rears were more than adequate, for almost all conditions. With upgrades like slotted rotors and EBC pad compounds, they would be better than most even under race conditions & chasing through the Brisbane Hills area, my contention being the leaverage of the 290 diameter rotor and the best part, THEY WERE/ARE SIMPLE BOLT ON UPGRADES. I used to drive an MX73 Cressida & now have an MX83. Bigger, heavier, more powerful etc, etc. The MX73 had 248 x 22 ventilated fronts & 269 x 18 ventilated rear. The MX83 has 256 x 22 ventilated fronts & 272 x 10 SOLID rear. GO FIGURE????????

I replaced my rear xmember & diff support bushes with urathane. Noltec made them Custom $450.00 But take some advice, if you want your car to handle, don't use urathane in the pivot point bushes unless you can affords to replace them every month

R32 GTR is the best way to go, it's the upgrade that Jenesis - Japan sells and uses. 296 x 32 Rotors or Z32 which are 280 x 30 with Nissan alloy 4 spot calliper. The Z32 set up is easy to get and a good balance with our 290 x 10 rears. Secondhand Z32 fronts should cost you about $550.00 discs & callipers.

Not quite! Similar in size, but R31 are "HAT" type rotors, as they go over the hub, where as DR30 & Z31's bolt onto the back of the hub.

Got a little erand for those guys with MR30/HR30 doing conversions. Anywhere in your travels, there is a plastic snout as the cold air intake on the stock R30 air box inlet, there is a similar thing on the R31, but don't know if same. I need an R30 one for my MR30 L24ET Ti Hatch, ANYBODY HELP???????

UAS at Castle Hill has them, but don't fall over when you see the price. But they better, they URATHANE, so heeps stronger, stiffer etc, etc. What I did is check the level of the gearbox stock, and chocked up the R33 box to same point and then used a standard xmember as a guide to see how thick it had to be etc, etc. Are you using an R33 box or R32/31, RB20?

NO! Where you get that notion???

Gearboxes: The RB20 DE & DET are identical and same as R31 import box from RB20 DOHC engine. The RB25 DET box is an entirely different kettle of fish, it's about 2 times the size and has the same ratio's as the GTR and come from the R33 GTS 25t The crossmember is a FABRICATE it yourself deal, as it mounts a further 100/150mm further back. The fabrication is a good idea as when we do these conversions, we tend to get heavier right feet and on hard launch, the standard mounts JUST DON'T DO! Think about NISMO mounts as well, engine & gearbox. And Matt, Going to get you a postage cost tomorrow and will PM you the result. Cheers guys, Dennis

Adam, Our DR30 RSX rotors are exactly the same as early model Z31's Fronts are DBA # 608 and Rear DBA # 605 Whoever told you they can't get them needs a manager (so that he stops handling himself) When I spoke to an agent of DBA's a few minutes ago, I was told they're ex stock DBA. Cheers, Dennis

Daryl, Was the other TPS, NEW!!! as if it was also second hand it could have been worn at idle position as well. Maybe you should try adjusting either or both first. I consulted my race mechanic before I answered you and he is my resident EFI WIZZ, there isn't much he doesn't know, he is the NSW Distributor for EFI Hardware from Melbourne. As for experts on the gold coast, PM RSX84, he is doing an RB conversion to an HR30, he might be able to point you in the right direction.

Daryl, TPS for sure! It should have some adjustment to it, probably a mm or 2 each way, BUT be advised, mark it's original position with a white texta or similar, before stuffing around with it, so that you have a referrence point to work from. Good luck Dennis

You can make your own if you have access to, or know a machine shop that can do the work/machining. The threaded section and 'C' nuts can be purchased from Whiteline or Noltec, in kit form for around $400.00 pair. Rears: Have to weld the threaded section (at a pre determined position, my suggestion, place the centre of the section at theoriginal spring seat position) to the rear dampers of your choice, but if it is to be lowered, may I suggest R31 rear dampers. Fronts: Using your own strut, the spring seat has to be machined off and the threaded section welded on (at a pre determined position, same as above) If I was doing this conversion I would also do the modification to our R30 strut to accomodate the R31 insert. Sprimgs of your own specs can be made by any reputable spring maker. PEDDERS, will make them for you for about $1700.00 a pair using your own front struts. Otherwise have to try Bilstein, Tein or ????? distributors

The travels right, but I have put 250 lb/inch front springs with Koni dampers and I doubt wether I will get that much travel with these springs. An upgrade replacement 24mm sway bar has been added for good measure. Considering standard front springs are 108 lb/inch, and mine are an increase of over 200%, I can't see a problem unless you go looking for the deepest of pot holes. My HR30 Paul Newman has JIC Coilovers in all corners with even heavier springs and sway bars.

Geez Matt, You must love wasting money, if you have got that much the combo switch is now $1000.00 LOL. Factory fitted tyres are 205/60 x 15 .. inflated OD 625mm, dynamic radius 304mm, revs per km 524 and recommended rim is 6, but can go on 5.5 - 7.5, my optimum choice is 6.5. The tyres you have just fitted 225/50 x 15???? inflated OD 604mm & dynamic radius 293, revs per km 543 and recommended rim is 7, but is acceptable on 6 - 8. NO WONDER YOU JUST LOWERED IT 10mm!!!! you have also stuffed the speedo accuracy by possibly as much as 10 - 20 kph. If you had to stay with 15's 205/60 was your only correct option, if you want wider 16's are the go and 245/45 are perfect in all respects or another alternative is 225/50 rear & 205/55 front, all similar spec to 205/60 x 15. Good luck with the law!!!! :ghost:

The factory minimum rad clearance is 160mm. So! theoretically 60mm is as low as you can go, but that is at DRY weight. NO fuel, oil, water etc, etc and standard exaust. If you have a performance upgrade exhaust, that could create 100mm minimum ground clearance problems. My MR30 hatch has 40mm lowered rear and 50mm lowered fronts and that is still legal. Looks as low as, but still has guard clearance. Due to the spring rates and Koni dampers, there isn't a lot of suspension travel anyway. Hope this helps. :ghost:

I took my cluster to an Auto Instrument Repairer in Camden NSW and he modified the 9G 4 cyl tacho, to work as for 6 cyl, don't know what he did, but I saw it working on the bench. To get it working with an RB, my sparky says it will be no problem, so maybe the answer is a trick auto sparky and not D. I. Y. As for exhaust/mufflers, plenty of S/S canons on ebay for about $120/$150.00. But don't you have your system arse up? gases as they cool, expand and therefore need more space to flow at the same rate. You have a 4 inch dump, going into a 3 inch system????? shouldn't it be the other way around. I have for my big banger, a 3 inch dump, 1.75 inch from ext gate, feeding into a 3.5 inch front pipe, cat and back to a S/S rear muffler, 3.5 inch inlet and 2 x 3 inch outlet, as I want it to at least look a little stock from the rear. Don't want to tell everyone in advance that they are about to be blown off by a 20 year old fossil. That may be more embarrassment than they could cope with. Clutches: UAS has a 6 puk with 40% extra claping pressure they claim, will hold onto 300 rwkw and still be driver friendly for $695.00 exchange, with postage it may be the same as you have, but might be a little cheaper, but maybe better. My set up will cost you some dollars, but in the end, a far better system. I have a billet steel flywheel (Castlemaine Rod Shop) $550.00, designed for 10.5 inch VL Turbo clutch (far cry from 9 inch Skyline) using a full KEVLAR faced plate and 1500kg diaphram in the pressure plate. Will be VERY driver friendly and hold over 300 rwkw. A friend has a similar set up in his R33 GTR in QLD and has never had a problem holding his 300+rwkw. :ghost:

A quick question for all people with FJ20DET powered DR30's. The L20ET 6 cyl turbo is identical to look at in every way to that fitted to an FJ20DET, but the FJ has a 0.68 rear housing as opposed to the L20 0.37. Q: How much boost will the FJ turbo take before it breaks???

Someone!!!! please enlighten me, WHY??? would anyone want to fit an autometer tacho, when the stock one goes to 9000 rpm and can easily be converted to suit 6 cylinders and fits neatly in the dash instrument cluster. WHY??? do you want a monster ugly thing sitting on top of the dash. Other than the stock cluster that includes 260K Speedo, 9G tacho, volt, fuel, oil pressure & water temp gauges, I am fitting 2 extra gauges into the console, those being boost & oil temp. Why you want more?

Factory R31 DRY weight specs are : GX > 1320, GXE > 1350 & Ti > 1420, but in reality, my mate has a series 3 R31 Ti sedan and with a full tank and otherwise factory accessories and a/mkt stereo weighs just under @ 1595kg I am listing max weight per model, as the factory max for an R30, is 1250kg and that is a Ti Hatch with that incredibly huge rear glass tail gate. Compared to an R31, it is still a light weight thoroughbred.

munroes

There were 2 muroes at Driftland, Oran Park 2 weekends ago, both stock as rocks, but V8's and the best they could do was 3rd out of 14 starters, the 2nd was a no show after practicing all day

I looked at R33 seats for mine, but thought the mountings, not being same both sides would be a bugger to modify, so opted for SAAS Enforcers @ $350.00 each uncovered, with air lumbar support in drivers side.

SSS sell disc rotors & callipers, 2nd hand for $500 set plus fabrication about another $500. So a grand will get mine done. But if you have to go through engineering, do the conversion after rego, as a 20mm spacer has to be made so that the wheels can clear the 4 spot calliper

Slip! you forget one fact. Your OZZY sh#tbox is a minimum of 200kg heavier than our fully imported lightweight thoroughbred. AND trying to HALT that extra weight arourd your Queensland hills would be quite a task. I think our DR set up, and considering it is all bolt on, would be more than an adequate comparison to your set up. With the inclusions of DOT 5 brake fluid & EBC or ENDLESS/Apexi/import brake pads and maybe slotted rotors, they would be very good. Having said that, with a spare set of DR rear trailing arms that I have, I am experimenting with BNR32 GTR rears 297 x 18 using Z32 2 spot callipers on the rear. Might have to have hats made for series 5000 disc rotors, but I think it may be a good exercise. I think your getting a long way off the track trying to enforce an opinion that I think is futile, because the original question was fitting R32 rears to our IRS trailing arms. And that is an entirely different and more difficult exercise to changing the brakes on your solid live axle assembly. After all, your arguing over a rear rotor 280 x 22 vs 290 x 10 and less 200kg. The only advantage you have is the twin piston calliper and at $1400.00 against $500.00 I can't see the advantage. Most of the guys on here, the owners of R30's appear to agree in principle that the DR option is the best for them. There is a speed shop in Japan "Jenesis" closely related to "R31 House" and can be found at www.r30.co.jp that offer a brake upgrade for R30's and that is the 296 x 32 BNR32 GTR option, they don't regard a rear upgrade necessary over standard DR, and they RACE on this combination in GTP class, and there experience far outweighs both yours and mine put together.

Mike, Slotted rotors Z31 4 stud $295.00 pair incl GST. Order at [email protected] or phone (03) 9352 4422