Ghostrider

From BANG to stationary in 200/300M max.

Hi Guys & Gals, Recently a mate was travelling north bound from Wollongong, up Mount Kiera at about 80 kph in the centre lane when he heard a BANG! no warnings, no deflation just BANG! and instant flat on the n/s/r When he stopped on the left side of the road he found a disintegrated rear tyre, see thumbnails attached. The tyre in question: OLYMPIC SPRINTER 195/60 HR15 Fitted to stock 15 x 6 rims inflated to 30 psi. The car: 1990 S13 180SX A claim was made against Olympic and the results came through yesterday. The engineer Steve HOGAN from South Pacific Tyres says a sharp spiked object punctured the case and with some low pressure driving contributed to the disintegration of the tyre case. When question/challenged about this, along the lines that the driver could tell if the tyre had gone flat as the handling characteristics would change dramatically, the engineer stated, "I have driven on tyres with pressure as low as 8 psi and didn't know I had a flat untill told by another motorist". How many of you would know exactly when a tyre went down, or better still, couldn't tell if you had a flat when at 8 psi??? My thoughts; When a tyre can do this with just a sharp spiked object penetrating the case, HOW GOOD IS THE TYRE? This tyre just exploded, without warning. Just imagine if this happened at 100+ kph and or on the front! THIS IS A WARNING TO ALL, WHAT CAN HAPPEN TO THESE TYRES and the agents claim it is NO FAULT of the tyre, make up your own mind.

JENESIS PARTS Due to the conversion cost of our dollar to the yen and considering Japanese freight/postage is about the dearest about, I believe all the engineering parts can be made here cheaper than they can be sourced from Jenesis. The 2 door roll bar, I had a quote last month for just under $400.00 for it made from Chrome-molly tube. The front & rear strut braces & floor brace could be made here cheaper. The semi rigid sway bar mounts I am making here out of ROSE joints, cheaper. The adjustable and stronger caster bars I have sourced locally, cheaper than from Jenesis. They really haven't got anything new, that hasn't been done here before, get onto your local rally guys that have worked with daddo 1600's and a lot of these parts are interchangeable from them. Don't be SUCKED in by URATHANE BUSHES, they all aren't the best. The pivot points should be left rubber and others like rear cross member bushes and Diff support, caster bar bushes can be urathane. People like Pedders recommend urathane cause they buy them for $1.00 and sell them for $20, where as rubber might cost them $14/15 and they sell for $20. Body parts ... Side steps, badges, 260K speedo etc, could be a good thing, particularly if they CAN NOT be sourced or made here. I am trying to source all of the engineering parts here, before I think about paying for the Jenesis parts. Go out and ask your engineering shops, take the pics off the site and ask, you might be surprised what you find. My coil over springs are made to Jenesis specs, but made locally by ALLSPRINGS at Liverpool NSW for $115.00 pair. Jenesis spec F & R sway bars I have had made here for under $300.00 each, complete with urathane bushes. It was Jenesis where I found the BNR32 GTR front brake conversion, and that can be done here cheaper than Jenesis parts only price. Just have to get off your butt and go looking. Teflon lined, s/s braided street legal brake lines for $99.00 pair, made to order.

Just sent you a PM

Already done that, I talk to Nathan & Paul at least once per week.

Same spec 274 x 22 as your R31 GTS. We have discussed this topic extensively on another thread. I have DR front & rear, slotted rotors and EBC green pads up front & black rear. They are a high temp KEVLAR compound low friction, excellent road set up. But I am going to upgrade my fronts to BNR32 GTR 296 x 32 with 4 spot Nissan alloy calliper, only because I have, potentially over 300Kw at the wheels.

Easier on the pedal. Less pressure required to do same thing.

You would have a TOKIKO style master cylinder??? If yes, there is a 1 inch upgrade available, don't know what vehicle it comes off, but if you took your old 7/8 m/c to a brake shop, or you know exactly what it looks like, get them to order you one. Our 84/5's can only go up to 15/16 unless we change all the bundy tubing.

Same spec, just different offset on hubs. Is yours pre or post 83?

You got an R200 or R180 Diff??? And the shafts from DR rear, they for R200 or 180???

DR fronts as well???

I got a stock one, but otherwise get it made. Your sedan got rear discs with it's IRS??? All hatch's have rear discs and they're interchangeable with sedan. Just attach at cross member, but if you do this you will need the handbrake cables as they are different to the drum ones.

Jenesis is www.r30.co.jp but when you access it put it through Alta Vista translation or similar so you can sort of understand what there saying in descriptions. BUT! don't get to excited, they won't trade with you DIRECT, it's a good site to explore, and a lot of their parts can be made here just from the pictures. It is a good referrence site as well, to see what they do with them in Japan. If your interested in getting some bits from them, it might be a good idea to put it to open forum discussion and we try and jointly get an order together and then get in touch with a parts importer, like Nengun, one of SAU sponsors. Only one problem I can see with your car...... far too many doors!

Hi Guys, My Paul Newman Version VIN is 200170. I am guessing it stands for 2 door & build number 170. But to clarify, would the members with Paul Newman's let me know what their VIN is and how it corresponds to the compliance plates. Build date, 2 or 4 doors, chassis number etc. Mine is a bit shonky, it has NO COMPLIANCE PLATES & brake hoses date stamped 07/84 but is supposed to be, according to the import papers, an 82 model. The instant ageing might have something to do with the 15 year rule, as it was imported in 1997, YOU THINK?????

V8SkylineMan is correct, but it assists the rear strut tower brace, doing more like a half cage would do. Talk to Whiteline and they will tell you both rear tower brace and floor braces aren't necessary, but Jenesis makes, sells & uses them, so! someone aint up to speed. I know what I'm doing with mine. If you peel back the carpet, the holes are there waiting for you in the coupe, in my PNV they are.

Mike, Offset should be fine. I have 16 x 8 & 16 x 7 offset +38 on my PNV and the rears, 16 x 8 are perfect, just sit under the guard nicely, will roll the edges to be sure, but sit just nice. And 4 x 114.3 is correct (old 4.5 inches) Standard offset was +25 on 15 x 6 rims. Freight? get in touch with McPhee's and you probably get out of it for $30/40.00. I recently had a set of wheels sent Albury to Sydney by McPhee's for $35.00.

The engagement problem can be said for many makes and models as ease of selection depends entirely on the alignment of the gears at the stationary position. If it doesn't go into first easy, take second, then first and it should go in easy, second time around.

As for the front: After much deliberation, if the new air dam is to be used, the tekamon front is the go, but if staying basically stock, I think the tekamon bonnet would look best with modified stock grille and stock headlights. For Oil: I use 75W/90 Mobil full synthetic in both LSD & Gearbox

Re R30 Fronts! I have come to the conclusion, after studying both for most of today, If you want to use the Tekamon bonnet with stock headlights, a modified (cut down) stock grille would have to be used, primarily due to the impossible task to remove the chrome trim from under the headlights. To keep uniformity, the cut down stock grille would have to be used. The Tekamon front was designed to improve aerodynamics, so if the plan is to have a quick car the Tekamon front would be the obvious choice, but if show is more your go, then the stock front is probasbly best. I will post pics in due course

That's well put Mick, but all these dicks have a different thing to say when the 2L is kickin the 5L's ass. I had a 1750cc Hillman Hunter years ago and on the way back from the snow at 125mph a 5L SLE C'dore couldn't go past me. Could catch and sit on my rear in my slipstream, but when he pulled out to go past, he went backwards. I only had 165 HP at the fly. Re that program, PHaT in Tassie has the same I think, but I will do a google search and see what it produces. Tah :ghost:

That's pretty interesting, my L24ET will also be non intercooled but with L20ET ECU, but trying a L24E AFM and maybe throttle body, depending on which is the larger plus the T3 FJ20DET turbo and 5 speed man transmission. Should make an interesting gadget to sell, as my MR30 hatch is a fully optioned Ti with the addition of the PNV interior, & grey dash. Surely it will be a one off, RED with Grey/Black interior. All OZ delivered reds were brown interior.

The L20ET one & Yes it is! Don't have a choice, only L series turbo ECU I have. As I said before L24E ones are good for landfil. Why? you offering an alternative?? :ghost:

Your probably right, but the specs as I quoted them for the L20ET are right. I just transfered all my L20ET bits onto an L24E with the FJ20 turbo and it's heaps different in size (rear housing)

Someone was looking for a Iron Mask headlight recently. Has it been sourced or are they still looking? PM me if still looking.