Ghostrider

Think! best go look at one and see eh!

If it has the STOCK T25 turbo on it, source yourself a T25 from an FJ20DET. To look at, they are identical in evey way, they bolt onto the manifold the same, oil lines etc, all the same, just rear housing is 0.68 instead of 0.37 standard. It will spool up easier and faster and supply more boost, but should be intercooled, even a little one, if boosting over about 6-8 lb.

As part of the engine number, or otherwise?

Next question: Is there size/capacity casting marks on the block? If I wanted to make my PNV a sleeper looking all stock & standard, could I get an L28 block & change the engine numbers to L20 and get away with it, or has it L28 on the side.

Only befitting that you posted it, as you did start this MARATHON originally. But back to info, 3 inch would be to big I think, the exhaust guys roughly work on 1 inch per litre + 50% for turbo, so if it's mandrel bent, 2.5 would be plenty, but if press bent 2.75 would be the go, as the restriction in the bends is the resultant flow rate. My Paul Newman exhaust is a press bent 2.5 and it flows easy. As for flow meters, I would look at Series 1 R31's, as the air box arrangement is very nearly identical, I know it's not turbo, but it is a 3L engine, or source an L28ET from Japan. And further to my previous post, can you get 2800 from the L20 block by stroking with 280Z crank & rods. Cheers, :ghost:

As a matter of interest! does anyone know the differences of L series 6 cylinder engines? Is their hieghts the same or does it increase as the capacity increases? How far can the L20 be stretched etc, etc.

A GTS2 RB30E is good for 145Kw at the fly.

Go away d/head, as you would know? All of 23 and has all the answers! We got sensible people on here.

Sure do!!! He made our RB26/30DE hybrid cams. The wildest duration, over 350 degrees each for the princely sum of $840.00 pair. When searching around, HKS, Trust, Tomei etc were all that much & more EACH and could/would not supply bigger than 284's. Cheers :ghost:

That DR is for sale. Ben Ellis had it at the IDA drift day at Oran Park in Feb this year. You have the best CAM maker in the country up there near you, Tighe Engineering, they made my n/a cams, brand new, just needed my stock cams for samples to cast the billet blank. Cheers,

No thanks, Butchery is not my stock & trade.

Got the same set of magazines, but how do you get 8 & 12 degrees out of an adj cam pulley?

The best part of the red RB20 is the cams, they are 248 degrees both, as silver are only 240 inlet & 236 exhaust.

Can't balame you for that, the red rocker RB20DET's sucked. Go look at all the reviews, they say it doesn't rev past 5G's

Guys, These are my reasons for what I have done and will do. Firstly, I have been an admirer of the R30 Skyline for a long time, the Ozzy released 4 door sedan & hatch has been considered by a lot of knowledgeable people throughout the auto industry as the BEST Skyline ever to come to this country, short of the R32. My original project vehicle was a 4 door Ti hatch & I went to my local Parts recycler and asked if they did anything trick with them in Japan. Other than the FGMS DR30's, I had never seen an Iron Mask front in the flesh, so to speak and when I did I thought it looked great compared to the stock fronr on the oz delivered car. I thought if I was to put this horny looking front on the car and I stopped to fill up at the garage and all that was under the bonnet was a stocky L24/L28, I would be laughed at, so an engine swap had to happen. After some investigation, it was decided to build an RB, with the intension of making a "Horsepower Heroes" car for the Summernats class of 6 cyl n/a. About 300rwhp was the aim. To get this HP the engine was a nightmare to just consider driving on the road, didn't idle under 3000 revs, had a torque band of about 400 revs and needed to spin at over 10500 to get the power. All in all, as a drive on the street deal, the n/a was not an option. Now having done all the research on RB's and having bought the engine, it was decided to build a turbo version for the street, BUT along came the PNV at a very reasonable price $5000.00, so it was then decided to go ahead with the RB conversion into now! the coupe. The original R30 Ti Hatch came with an engineer's report as an a/mkt turbo set up, so to me it was just natural to swap all the turbo bits off the L20ET onto the L24, making that a ET, as per engineer's report and it would then be sold as a legal thing. I am 192cm tall and DO NOT FIT inside an R30 with a helmet on, so with stock seats, track work was a non event. So a change in seating had to be done so that I could lower the front seats, at least 4 inchs. It seemed very natural to swap the PNV seating into the Hatch, as I had no use for it. The PN patches were removed, plus the PNV steering wheel was also removed and kept, as my coupe is the PNV, not the hatch. This is basically the reasons why my PNV is going through so many changes. I hope all the loyalists to the rare PNV coupe, understand why everything has and had to be done. Thanks.

Sure PNV's are rare, but only in Japan are they of value, here they're just another R30. To some, like those on this forum thread, may think otherwise, but at the end of the day it is only rare and valuable if & when it is SOLD. As I don't intend to sell it ever, there is no rarity value and it will always be a PNV as it is marked that way and sold that way, just a modified version. If it was to stay stockish, a L20et rebuild to L28 would be necessary for some performance and to rebuild to L28 spec, it's same price for RB and RB is modern technology.

As a matter of interest! Plenty has been said about my intention of changing the front on my PNV, absolutely nothing has been said about the performance enhancements. What's with the bullsh!t on changing the front?????

I did have a spare set, but they got snapped up by another member. Sorry!

And fluffy dice hanging on the rear view mirror, bobble braid around the rear windscreen, fox tail on the aerial, and mini disco ball on the dash????? Then you will have all the gear!

Derrrrrrrrr! aren't I a DuMass, I get the drift, you guys querying me putting RS badges on a HR PNV. I bought the new badges from Jenesis before I had the PNV, the DOHC RS were going on the MR30 Hatch. I also have a set of U12 Pintara Ti Nissan badges, that I was going to put on the guards, they're black with a GOLD wreath and Nissan on the bottom. At the end of the day, what's in a badge, the car is still a PNV.

Better with nothin! mine has DOHC RS on the right side (driver's) of the boot lid & RS or GT badges on the front guards and Skyline across the boot lid lip. It doesn't say Nissan, or Datsun anywhere on the car other than PNV on the seats and down the side.

They are PNV ONLY, to the best of my knowledge and as there is only about 5 in the country, you got no chance. BUT! if you were able to come up with GENUINE of what I suggested, I might have been tempted to take mine off, as I would have made a killing selling the other.

OK guys, Special for all you people with Hatch R30's. I have a Jap imported hatch up for grabs, not the car, just the rear hatch. Great condition, complete with wiper & motor. I paid $350.00 for it, but I'm in for offers. Talk to me.

A boot lip garnish eh! well that should be fun. With Skyline on it??????? or otherwise??? How you holding for "Rocking Horse Sh1t, or Tits for a Bull, or Hens Teeth"?????