Ghostrider

I had the car in late 80's, 88/93 and guess what? I had never seen one either until I was talking to a guy at Triuph Tune at P'matta I think. He had it made up some years before and never used it. Just made aircleaner/ram tube difficult on number 2 carbie, as it was right on the strut tower. I settled for short ram tubes with filter foam in them. Early 80's I built a Hillman Hunter Wagon, 54/86 cam, 12:1 comp, twin 40mm DCOE's, extractors and that had 170 BHP going through a 5 speed celica box. Geoff Dellow made the sandwich plate to mount the celica box to the hillman bellhousing and the celica input shaft was machined down to hillan dimensions. 5L XLE C'Dores couldn't go past me. That was a fun thing to drive.

Just looked up the specs: 285 degree cam 0.400 lift, 10:1 compression, Extractors, triple 1 3/4 SU's re jetted by Carburettor Service at Auburn and O/Drive transmission. Had 185 BHP.

if I take the Triumph I have to leave earlier), Don't knock the Trumpy, I had a '77 2500 TC that went harder than a PI without the dramas.

Is it a good deal that price? And I'll get in the sh!t for putting you up to it, but thought it on open forum then anybody could have seen it if they wanted it. Hope all works out, you might keep up with our RB's then

Item # 2479513310 US$115.00 No Bids Now 10 mins

If your interested, I just stumbled across a genuine HKS Power FC 2nd hand to suit FJ20DET DR30 on ebay Japan/USA. Location Tokyo ends in 20 mins

Adam, If your not chasing monster HP and keeping your FJ relatively stock, then what you have is more than adequate. Just put Green Stuff on the front and Black on the rear. The good thing with EBC, it's relatively easy to get and being Kevlar based, it's very user/disc friendly. I am only going to BNR32 GTR spec front brakes because I intend using it for super sprints at some point. As for pads I will use the same EBC's as I suggested above for normal road use, but for track I will upgrade to red fronts and get greens made for rear. Maybe Yellow & red combo, but then have to get both F & R made to order. Rotors: Shop around, there is some good ones coming in from o/seas now, slotted, but don't buy drilled, they can't handle extreme heat and CRACK. At all costs, stay away from DBA, if at all possible. They put a small notice inside the boxes, "not warranted under race conditions" unless you buy GOLD and they aren't available for DR sizes. Also remember if they can't be found in listings as DR, they are identical to Z31 300ZX rotors. Stuts: Get someone to shorten the DR struts to accept R31 front inserts IF YOU INTEND LOWERING, as they're about 30mm shorter so piston travel doesn't become an issue.

Does anyone on SAU have R32 & R33 Service Manuals on CD? Other than the engine manuals being offered by Import Driver.com

No! you have genuine DR brakes, it's just that the fronts are ventilated x 22mm & rears are solid x 10 and the front pads are HUGE in comparison to rears. Change your pads to EBC, or Endless or similar and you will be surprised at the improvement.

That's right, or near enough 274 front (10.8 inches) and 290 rear (11.4 inches)

Crimmo, Can you do a sedan & rear view of a hatch the same and send them to me.

Crimmo, Why you want 4.6, you want to accelerate up telegraph poles? 4.3 I can understand, but hard to find, I have been looking for yonks, even open are hard to find. Try finding a 9 tooth pinion and make your own 4.3 with the 3.9 crown wheel. What thickness is the K Mac bar standard? Sorry to hear about your hand & I might be able to use your vector. Thanks.

Both are 250 dia. but offsets change a little. My electric HR struts that I took out had hub type discs on them, the rotor was part of the hub with the studs in it, similar to HQ holden. As opposed to our R30, DR30 that the rotor bolts to the back of the hub. If your going to get the DR struts made up for coilovers, it might be worth investigating the possibility of cutting them down (length) and recutting the inside thread to allow the use of R31 inserts. After all, you have to get the spring seats removed.

The DR struts have a different mount for the calliper, it's 100 mm (4 inch) centre to centre and make allowance for the bigger diameter brake rotor where the HR, MR are 3.5 inches. Other than that they're both the same. If your going that way, look at R31's as they are shorter to begin with and easier for lowering.

You obviously don't know what a DR Tekamon grille looks like, otherwise you wouldn't make this comment. AND [ant] it's fibreglass not metal!

I can get about 20 louvres in the bonnet for $150.00 What's the problem???

Just hang in there for a while longer, I will probably be turning them out by the end of the year. JENESIS style front bars

I'm going to punch a couple of dozen louvres into my bonnet

Shit eh! Blockbuster Manager????? hope you do it better there than they do it here. I do all the security work for them here in Campbelltown, Narellan, & Minto (affectionately known as minnow, by the houseo's) So we see them eventually eh!

Your going to beat me, I just pulled rear trailing arms out and sent them away to have the camber/toe adjustments put on them, and won't see them for a couple of weeks. When it goes back together I will have fully adjustable suspension F & R. I will know then wether I can fit 9/9.5's on the back and if I need guard flairs.

Where are all these pics you promised us Adam???

Check your emails, one on the way, just sent.

### ITEM OF INTEREST ### Due to their scarcety, I am thinking of making a mould for the DR Iron Mask Grille. WHAT YOU THINK?????

The genuine front DR "Iron Mask" spoiler is a black rubbery plastic item and I have a spare N/A cover. Don't have the brackets to support it, but have the cover. The N/A version doesn't have the intercooler vent in the bottom left. If you need the centre support bracket, talk to RSX84 as he probably didn't use his because the intercooler is in it's place. Come back to me if your interested. PM me for deal.

Hey guys, PARTS not a problem to me!