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Everything posted by Ghostrider
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Matt, Add SSS Automotive at Girraween 02 9896 6111 Just Jap at Kirrawee (they race a DR30)
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Go to classic skylines
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Has anyone attempted to build the 3.1L L Series Stroker engine in Australia?
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Hi all, I copped some flack on another thread because of my intention to do an RB conversion to my HR30 Paul Newman. What are the thoughts on a sort of stock looking 3029cc L Series in my PNV. All the purists accept that on a power upgrade?????
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Kent, That makes some sense. Guys, Go to new thread titled HR30 Purists, i'm starting now.
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Was speaking to Christian late last week and have advised, ENTRY FEE is Guaranteed! compliments of Glenford's Tool Stop at Campbelltown, just trying to organise a Sat that we can all get together, but if the cheque is required more urgently, give me a call and I can see what I can arrange. Tyrepower of Campbelltown have also shown some interest and am waiting on replies from a number of other sources. HR & DR 30's all had R200 LSD's standard and some C210/211 coupes came fitted with them. The MR30 IRS is easy to get, the hatch will give you disc brake rear end, the cross members are all identical, DR rear trailing arms mount to an MR cross member if DR rear brakes are required, but I would assume the standard MR rear discs would suffice with slotted rotors and EBC pads. Like you won't be trying to stop from 250+ kph. Get back to me.
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I have a pair of Brand New GReady S13 Strut Tops, bought from JMS in Adelaide for my original R30 project and the bolt pattern is identical to R30, BUT IN REVERSE, the problem then is that the camber adjustment is no longer to negative, but to positive, not something that would be desireable, I wouldn't think. Noltec in Thornleigh NSW will make adjustable strut tops on request for ANY vehicle, using a urethane bush at the top, instead of steel.
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When my original project car was the RED 4 door hatch, my choice of colours was going to be U12 Pintara Ti colour scheme, Cabernet/Stormy Glow. In laymans terminology, Burgundy/Silver, but Red/Silver would look cool as well. Have seen R31's in that scheme. Matt, Before you go to the GTR cams, get yours measured, because if your engine came out of a Cefiro or Laurel, it could have 248 degree cams and the change would give you SFA, in fact you could experience a loss with GTR's. If your going to get a new re programmable ECU, why not just get a set of 254's and be done with it.
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Nothing wrong with white, just not ALL white. I think mine looks cool, white/silver. And now considering scrapping RB conversion for L31, to keep more in phase with originality. Top end HP might not be as big, but torque would be similar and 300rwhp still might be achievable. Someone that could remark an L28 block to my L20 engine number would be interesting, no need for engineering or emissions testing then and a nice little sleeper.
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I have posted my thoughts on the thread so! now I just wait and see what response I get. BUT!!!! it seems they are experiencing heaps of trouble with idle etc, maybe it's due to the profile shape as the primary difference between solid & hydraulic lifter cams. Anyway, why pay $300+ for second hand GTR when $850 gets you BRAND NEW anything you want. If you do go down that track, you got a g'teed deal sale on your RB20DET cams, cause I will take them.
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Would you please explain how you would benefit from GTR cams in an RB20, when RB20DET cams have a duration of 247/8 degrees and HYDRAULIC LIFTERS and GTR cams have a duration of 240 and SOLID LIFTERS. It's my understanding solid lifter cams won't work in hydraulic lifter engines as the profile shape is different.
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Sorry to disappoint you Matt, but GTR Cams will be a problem for you. GTR's have SOLID lifters and RB20's have HYDRAULIC, but WHY????? on earth would you want to go down in duration. GTR cams have a duration time of 240 degrees, where RB20's have 248. I no understand your logic. AND I have said before, you have the BEST cam maker in Australia, just near you in Queensland, and they will make you ANYTHING. I have 264's on order and as for adjustable cam gears, don't get sucked in with Jap ones, UAS has modified stockies for $185.00 pair, heaps better than HKS, as they retain the steel gear.
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I have an RB25DE block, crank & rods you can have for free. Minus head & front tensioner pulley, I need them for my RB30 conversion. But if you have an RB20, it's the 25 bits you'd need.
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Hey Guys, I'm looking for a good manual C210 Coupe, if you find one in your travels.
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SH!T! that means it's a BIG BRICK eh!!!!!!! And someone mentioned 1280kg for weight, my HR30 PNV weighs only 1115 in road trim, someone put a couple of bags of cement in the boot?????
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The main PROBLEM with Urethane bushes in ANY pivot point is that they are a greased bush, a greased metal sleeve inside the urethane bush. When the pivot point flexes, the hole where the metal sleeve is elongates into an OVAL shape and dirt/sand/grit etc gets into the hole and then acts as a grinder making the hole bigger. It is impossible to bond metal to urethane, hence the greased sleeve. If you don't or can't afford the replacement every year, use stock rubber in all pivot points. I have urethane, but only non pivot points, I even had special urethane bushes made for the rear crossmember mounts and diff support, but all lower control arm bushes are rubber. Urethane is good for sway bar bushes, both ends & clamp mounts, torsion rod/castor bar bushes etc. All the top rally guys use a mix of both rubber and urethane. PROFIT margin is the main reason for recommending urethane, it's about 100% as opposed to 20%.
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What you wanna UPGRADE?????
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You'll need at least a 2S license as well, I should have my C3/R5 by then. Looking for a 260Z 2+2 as a Targa Classic project. If you spent some on your's it would be equally as good as this 31 your looking at, did anyone notice the HR31 RB20DE GTS on ebay last week, sold for about $2500.00 in Vic.
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It's all academic anyway. I don't think it's practical to get much more than 300HP to the ground without heaps of wheel spin and then top grade $400 each tyres would be needed, Yoko A-032's or similar street legal racers. My mate in Adelaide has an MR30 sedan with 175Kw at the tyres and he spins wheels coming out of every corner and his point to point times are slower than when he had just 140rwkw. Granted his tyre selection isn't great, 225/50 x 17 Bridgestones I think, on 17 x 7 wheels, but it does demonstrate the problem. I have Yoko A-008 RSII's, 245/45 x 16 and I think more than 300 will create problems. Now that Matt has deserted the ranks and now prefers a HR31, "THAT SOMEONE ELSE BUILT" I should get my finger out and finish mine, just to show how an HR30 can blow the doors off his new acquisition. Lakeside might be a fun place to do it eh!!!!!
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I have these under my HR30 PNV and on Saturday I pick up BNR32 GTR callipers, rotors & pads for $400.00. Just bought DR slotted front rotors for $130.00 each, that will be up for grabs later. Cheers.
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An HR31 GTS-X!!!!!
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Don't replace the lower control arm bushes with anything but RUBBER! keep all PIVOT points RUBBER, the others can be Urethane, but don't get sucked in to believing it's the be all end all, talk to some rally guys and they will tell you the same. They promote Urethane because of the HUGE profit margin they get from it.
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Is that what's turning you on????? There a BRICK! 1300+ kg, but your choice. Bet it won't be as quick as mine, RB26DETT and all it's mods. The HR30 will reign supreme.
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What's the go Matt? Not going to finish your project????? What happened to the re finance etc, etc. D
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You all got me f#@ked! Why keep f#@king around with 275, when our stock fronts are 274, 4 spot callipers I can understand, but no advantage in 1mm. As far as I know, all Nissan S13/14/15 & Skyline DR imports have 100mm mount centres. Bet the JMS conversion was Z32 (280 x 30) set up, as it's a very common upgrade in Silvia circles, just re drill the rotor to suit 4 x 114.3, instead of 5 x 114.3. The big problem is hub offset, but maybe I should investigate this eh! maybe S13 ABS hubs might be same as HR31 ABS hubs. If HR31 ABS type hubs can be located, I'm led to believe the Z32 conversion is a simple BOLT ON affair.