Ghostrider

Is there any specific difference between stock GTR & GTR N1 OIL PUMP?

Thanks, you can PM me if you like with results if you don't want to post it here.

Do any of you guys know where I might find a R31 Passage GT rear spoiler. Would prefer the solid fibre glass version to the soft rubber one.

The point wasn't aimed at the forum members, but at NSW club members. Far to many forum members are here to sling sh!t. So! what your suggesting is the NSW members shouldn't own a shirt promoting their own car club because the source has nothing to do with them????? That's the sort of logic I would expect from a woman. It's my understanding that each order provides a $5 donation to the club, how that not a good thing.

Unless your going all the way to 3090cc, the stroker isn't really the go and to have a strong 3090, the F54 280ZX Turbo block should be used, in conjuction with a P90 head. At the end of the day, some extra boost is the answer in a lot of cases. Dennis

Not that it particularly matters, but if you took parts off a C210 with compliance plate stamped year 82, it would in fact be an Aussie C211, BUT! to my knowledge, No Skylines were made in Australia with the exception of that BRICK they called an R31 4 dr sedan & wagon. C110, C210/211, M/H/DR30 all made in Japan, and either shipped here in parts for assembly, or whole, but I think if my memory serves me correctly, all Skylines were fully imported. Some 240K's were assembled here, 4 dr sedans etc, but coupes were imported, same as 180B SSS. And, I have a friend that owns a VL Dunnydore, complied 3/89, but it certainly wasn't made after 86, as VN's were released in 88.

C210/211's ceased production in early 81 and sales records show stayed on sale till August 81 and MR30's took over from September of that year.

Push down the main door lock??????? What's this that you do???? My central locking works when I push the button of the remote! Anyways, doesn't the stock MR30 Ti central locking work off the key????? 4/. That's right, I probly be the man for this. Don't waste your time with the L20A engine block, it might be the same physical size as any other L series 6 cylinder, but you cant put a 10.0 mm over bore down it, the cylinders get a bit airy! If your going to do the stroker deal, you need a bigger block and not ZED blocks as their sumps and oil pick ups are all in the wrong place for R30's, and the LD28 crank is only comp[atible with another L28 block without a fair amount of machining. Do lots of homework on the subject before you embark on it, as it is super expensive and more so if you **** it up. It is not the sort of engine build you can do and cut corners, it's either all or nothing and then it has to be THE VERY BEST of ALL, not what you can afford. I have got all the bits, but i'm not going ahead with the build until another day, the easiest way is build a stock L24E into a turbo using maybe the L26 crank and find some pistons, the L20ET manifolds all bolt on. A TURBO! An T03 off an FJ20DET is identical in every way to the L20ET turbo with one very important change, the turbine housing is nearly twice the size, from .46 to .87 A/R which should make it spool up faster and produce more power. The FJ T03 mounts to the stock manifold, just like the old one (L20ET)

Why On Earth Do You Bother Joining A Car Club, If You Can't Buy A Club Shirt???????

What's the damage? I am about to order at least one and I was going to get a 5 point WILLANE. Do we choose the colour preferrence?

Does anyone know where I could find one of these?

This is to all those so called devoted members of SAU. As my membership number is 100, that suggests that there are at least another 99 out there somewhere. DO YOU ALL HAVE AN OFFICIAL SAU SHIRT????? I tried to order one recently and can't get it, REASON! have to be made in batches of ten (10). I have placed the order for one (1) only POLO SHIRT, I may make it an order for two (2) but that still means I need another eight (8) members to buy them so I can get mine. We all spend big bucks on our cars, do you think it's to much to ask you to buy a club polo shirt. The club gets a $5 donation out of it, so it's a win, win situation for club & member. SO!!!!!! HOW ABOUT IT??????? I need eight (8) more polo shirts orders.

Hey Disco, Nothing wrong with RB25/30DET, that's where I'm going now. Those KA24 pistons are to high a comp with 89mm bore, but it was getting expensive (L28 stroker), as I had to acquire all the bits again. My RB25/30 DET has 87.0mm bore, 'O' ringed block, Wiseco forged pistons, flowed & ported RB25DE head, HKS cast exhaust manifold with 45mm ext gate into 3.5 inch dump, Trust/GReady inlet plenum/manifold assembly, S4 RX7 550 injectors, RB25DE throttle body, Z32 AFM, custom air box, HKS full flow air filter, FMIC and presently a flowed T03, but a Garrett GT3540 is coming. All driven by a re mapped R32 ECU. Maybe an Apexi Power FC will come later or a fully programmable ECU, depending on HP requirements. The exhaust manifold, turbine housing, air box and all connecting pipes are being HPC coated. All this should give me about 350Kw at the treads on 18/20 psi boost. The R31 cross member is very close to same width, but the mount holes are wider apart. If you have to go through engineering you will need to fit anti crush sleeves into the chassis rails. The idea is good, but it will take some f@#king around getting it right and quite frankly, I didn't think it was worth it, as I already have a full set F & R of JIC Coilovers for the R30 and DR parts (brakes) just bolt on. Also the R31 track is 24mm wider. I might look at it later again after i'm registered but not before, and after, I still may not worry, as I have 2 spare power steering boxes. There are far more important things than rack & pinion steering.

Faaaaaaaaaaaaaaar out! That changes my mind, but today the L28/3.1 stroker got expensive with all the bits and no available pistons suitable for turbo. Think better plan is go the RB conversion, but keep all the stock PNV bits, just in case needed for return to standard. Still could be just as rare.

The 6 cyl crossmember is swept back towards the rear by about 4 inches, give or take a foot.

Well guys, I have found an LD28 crank and an L28 modified block to suit the front mounted sump pan, that our R30's have, so it looks like it's all go and 3098 looks very likely now. Should be cool with a stock engine number. Trying to find a P90 head, if anyone knows any Datsun Zed wreckers in their local.

I had a few concerns with the standard inlet of the RB25 fitting and that it came back across the engine, so the decision was made to buy the Trust inlet plenum, as it was only $200 dearer than a custom & it was tried and tested. It was also easier to do the plumming for the FMIC with the trust inlet Series 4 RX7 550 injectors and all as you suggested, but maybe a re mapped stock ECU. My sources tell me mounting the RB into an R30 is simple, goes on the stock 6 cyl cross member and use stock RB30 mounts. My thoughts for the big L28 is to avoid emissions testing & further engineering in NSW, plus, as I have a limited edition as in PNV, I thought it best to keep it looking stockish and the 3.1 Stroker would be different, give the power to have some fun and look stealth to the ill informed. The head limitations, I will probably get over when I flow the head. An N42 is planed, relieved a fraction to get the compression down to about 8.2:1 so that city drivability won't be to compromised off boost. The heat issue will be adressed by HPC coating the turbine housings and manifold. Just having a big HP L series is a great temptation, although it ain't gunna be easy, the L28 uses a different sump, oil pick up etc system and the modification could be a real problem, fitting it into an R30 engine bay may become impossible. Just sourcing the parts is not the end, hence a lot of thinking, and asking questions before this project will take off. The 3.1 stroker suffers from harmonics problems at 7200, has a tendancy to destroy the half moon keyway on the front of the crank shaft and likes throwing flywheels, so the crank has to be modified to remedy these problems.

Answer to question about selling: No Chance, going away for Ron! And top end bits: RB25DE non VVT head, Trust inlet plenum, RB25DE throttle body, Gates T866 timing belt, HKS exhaust manifold with ext wastegate....... Injectors, wastegate and turbo size etc, depends on how much HP you want, BUT!!!! the biggest problem is not producing the HP, it's getting it to the ground without wheels spin. Your better to have less HP and no spin, than have heaps of HP and uncontrollable wheel spin everywhere.

The answer to your diff question is 260Z, they came out standard with a long nose R200 open 3.7:1 ratio. The gearbox might be a little different, but my sources tell me the Zed rally guys are now using R31 gearboxes behind their L series engines, just have to change and modify the bell housing. I have an RB20DET box that I am going to set up to suit the L Series if I go that way.

That's an interesting thought. On paper, I can produce at least 250rwkw @ 15psi from the L Series motor and my HR weighs just 1100kg. That would mean his R33 would have to have 300rwkw to just equal the same power to weight ratio, not to mention the enormous torque the 3.1 would produce. You guys think the RB's are the be all and end all of engines, maybe I should just go for it and see how I compare on the dyno, you might be embarrassed as well. It would be interesting if my "bucket of shit" out performs you eh!!!!! I have built an RB30/25 DET and think I can equal or better the output with an L series of similar capacity. After all, absolute HP means stuff all if you can't get it to the ground successfully. A mate has an L28ET running on straight LPG and point to point, he was faster with 145rwkw than he is now with 180, as now wheel spin out of corners is a problem.

That's right! The top package is F54 L28ET Block, LD28 Crank, Z24 Pistons, N42 Head etc, etc gives a 3098 monster L Series. Your friends contacts would be cool. Thanks.

What can I say????? Listen to the masses, you appear to be out numbered in your views. As you have the numbers covered, we won't know for sure, but as it has WA plates, DID YOU HAVE A BAD DAY AT THE DRIFTING??????? As for HR's on drift, maybe you should look at some of the R33's after they come unglued at the drift meets, even the japs have mishaps occassionally, just look at the videos from HPI Magazine. For your info, DR, HR & MR Skylines are basically identical and mine has all the new hi tech bits, like coil over suspension, DR front & rear brakes, Cusco LSD, fully adjustable front & rear suspension and IF I choose to build this 3L stroker, I think it might be quicker than your GTS25t, now wouldn't that be embarrassing.

To RSX, Turbo of coarse, probably a T04R or the GT35/40 I bought for the RB. The problems I spoke of are currently under control, these alternative medicine guys can be brilliant. OHR30T, Yes the RB is finished, but thought I might shelve it for a while, as the 3L L Series sounds awesome, just think, No engineers report needed, no cat, just get a blue slip and go, as by chance, it will still be carrying the L20A engine number. Let our RTA & police have fun with that.

And who or what are you to suggest anything. Can't say you own a classic.

I have recently finished building an RB30/25 DET hybrid, but am shelving it for now to investigate an L Series 3.1L Stroker for my PNV. Just imagine a BOG STOCK HR30 Paul Newman Version, complete with L20A engine number, but 3029cc, T04R, 3 inch + system, about 20 psi, giving about 300HP at the treads.