Ghostrider

They are a totally different hub set up. The R31 & R30 really, easily aren't compatible, but if bigger is your go enquire from places like Jaustech and JMS for DR30 brakes from japan, or go have a look at Z31's as the rotors & calipers are the same as DR30. Alternately, check some of your local parts shops for RDA rotors, they will probably cost you about $135.00 a rotor for standard slotted.

This is a very interesting post. It's now a fortnight later, since the last thread and still nothing, even for a keyboard socialist like R30 Julie, I would think once in 14 days she would see her PC in operation, like even if just to check emails. Come on Julie, we are all hangin to see this most rare example you claim to have, if it is as you say, please supply us with some picture evidence. After all, you did ask for our help finding you a wheel, but even with it on blocks the pic will settle all of our thoughts. You claim to have pics, if they are prints, get them scanned into a PC somewhere and let us see, any computer cafe will have the tools to do this, or a computer shop would be next if you don't have access to a digital camera. Let's see what you have got!

Thanks! But it's most certainly a great looking car and maybe you can take solace in the knowledge that, according to nissan, you owned THE MOST EXPENSIVE nissan for parts, closely followed by the Gazelle and R30. Cheers

You would know better than me, but weren't the same wheels used on the 200B Aspen Sedan.

Where did I try to TOTALLY DISCREDIT YOU????????????? Go read the text before shooting your mouth off. Go dig up a copy of a 98/99 handbook because 2E club cars are listed in it. And specifically "corner weights have nothing to do with spring rates" Where did I say anything about corner weight specifically, I simply said WEIGH the car or are you now suggesting a set of 1mm thick springs might be just the answer in your 2L 1200 front, or a set of 20mm might be better. Which is the go? or is hit and miss your best plan of attack?? might get a bit expensive??? There has to be a starting point and the weight of the car is a pretty good place to start for my money, as the standard springs are designed for a prescibed RIDE and have exactly nothing to do with the cars handling charateristics. What's your answer, go and see Mr Pedders or Whiteline and take what they recommend, take what they are trying to SELL to anyone that asks. Pedders won't even disclose their spring rates and when asking they tell you anything you want to hear even when proven wrong, as I have a set of pedders springs, got them measured and then asked and got bullsh!t for an answer. You have one of the best spring makers in Oz in Qld but I wouldn't use their recommended springs in any of my cars. You are right when most 3J cars never see a set of scales. More fool them! go tell messrs Brock, Gibson, Johnson, Gardner etc, etc, etc about your set up method and see how you fair. As for your improved production 2L Datsun 1200 rocket ship, with it's high tech strut suspension I think you would be hard pressed to be within 10 seconds of the flying minis of Peter Manton, Brian Foley, Lackis Manticus and others running on Xply slicks and NO REAL SUSPENSION and a miserly 1310cc & webber carbies (NO EFI). Better still try your hand against Jim McKewon in his 1600 Lotus Cortina, maybe you might get within 20 seconds of his lap times. All of these cars were Improved Production Class. As for our prehistoric Sports Sedans, I would like to see ANY improved production car on ANY TYRE go up against the Frank Gardiner prepared Chevrolet Corvair that was driven in it's latter years by Alan Grice and subsequently BANNED by CAMS because it was just to quick. No TURBO's or EFI in the Corvair, just a FLAT 6 & carbies. Cheers.

Harry, I'm not going to get into debate over this, but let me say this, in a lot of respects your wrong, not all, but a lot. The guy that is setting up the 200B club car was racing sport sedans before you were born. We were both competitors at a race track that you probably have never heard of, "Warwick Farm" and he was a very successful competitor, beating many bigger budget teams than his. You obviously have your ideas and I have mine, but going on your age, you are obviously drawing on such a massive wealth of experience. Setting up Nissan/Datsuns my way has paid off for me in the past and I will continue to do the same. At about when you were 1, I was throwing a 180B SSS around what is now the south circuit of Oran Park in a fairly quick 49.6 seconds. A fairly mean feat for an under 2L series production car and something no one else could do in the club at the time. The car was set up by Don Selby in their workshop in Planthurst Rd Carlton and he has no relativity to the now Selby name, other than the name, that Whiteline markets today. They were very big in mini's about then and the tyres were Dunlop greenspots, something similar to the historic tyres used today.

Maybe you should look further before shooting your mouth off, as the race series pistons are FORGED, not cast as you so dearly try to point out. I can buy ACL CAST pistons, that's HYPERUTECTIC for under $150.00 set. And your dictionary is on the nose a bit because it's thEy not thAy. Have a nice day!

Adam, For starters, my JIC Coilovers are 50mm shorter in overall length than standard, so when fitted it went down 50mm from the start. As for experimentation, that is THE ONLY WAY, depending on which purpose you want the car for. None the less, NOTHING can be achieved without first weighing the car, and that has to be done with road scales, not just a simple trip to a public weigh bridge. The spring rates will be calculated to offset the differences in weight, and to balance the car. Remember this, all the spring is designed to do in a standard road car is hold it up and not let it hit the ground. End of story. The shocks or dampers then control the spring in both rebound and compression strokes. There is a general rule of thumb and that is, control the roll with sway bars and tune the springs. If you just want a quick road car, the suspension tuning is entirely different to a race car that can be driven on the street. In nearly 100% of cases, the springs & shocks in Jap imports are all DRIFT based and entirely to hard for normal street driving.

That's cool, but I think it's more the type of car she is talking about. Something I find interesting is, it's now after midday AEST, or about 11 in the west and she has put up ZERO response to all the requests for more details and or correct directions to the picture she says exists. At the risk of getting egg on my face, maybe she is all hot air and it's not an R30 at all.

That's pretty smart Adam, so! what is correct??????? Pedders, King, Lovells, Henderson's, Jumbos etc, they're all spring manufacturers in Australia and all their respective springs are different, so! I ask, WHAT ARE CORRECT??????????? I have 230lb/in front & 200 rear in my MR30, 350lb/in Front & 300 rear in my PNV, a mate of mine has 700lb/in front & 550lb rears in a 200B club car, V8 Supercars run a similar set of rates, so really, WHAT IS CORRECT?????????

Change your spring rates or the dampening of the shocks

JFI, I recently bought ACL race pistons to suit RB25DET, for under $900.00 complete incl rings, clips & pins. They are German MAHL pistons and reputably the best of Europe.

Hate to disallusion anyone, but if it's shear weight that's the goal and for race purposes, a standard Nissan zinc plated hex steel wheel nut only weighs 28grams.

Put me on the list for the Boost Controller & Adjuster handpiece. How do I pay you. Cheeers, Dennis

Has anyone got one (1) of these laying around, or got some idea where I can get one (1)? Cheers

Hi Bek, If it was mine and was staying normally aspirated, I would be doing an F54 280ZX block, bored 3mm o/size, try to source an LD28 crank and go to 3098 and have one hell of a cruiser. But if the late model ULP EFI option is your choice, I can't see why you would go past the aussie RB30E from an R31 and take it to GTS2 spec. The RB25DE is rated at 134Kw, yet the RB30E GTS2 is rated at 140Kw and parts are a dime a dozen. An engineers report would be necessary with both of these 2 option, but with anything over 2760, it will be the same. For a quick fix upgrade, the head and induction system of the C211 or MR30 would bolt on and get you running fairly cheaply, if EFI is your goal. If go and cheap is the option, do the 240Z engine specs as with twin carbs, extractors and some tuning fairly good power is obtainable.

Ray,Where are you? I have both the old & new and L20A manuals if your local I can let you see them or otherwise organise copies.

I have been to the R31 club site, as probably others have as well, and to darkhalf, but there is no specific IMPORT section. Please be more specific with your instructions.

Is this your car???????????

Julie, I have the Nissan sales brochure for all R30 models marketed and there is no mention of a GTR in it. It is a well documented fact that the GTR models dissappeared between KPGC110 & R32. But let's just look at your vehicle description. L20? ... is it 4 or 6 cylinder? DET ... this terminology is usually for DOUBLE overhead cam ELECTRONIC ignition TURBO induction. The only L series DOHC cylinder heads that I know of were 1. the old 4 cyl formula pacific homologation fitted to the now famous TOMICA Skyline SS pic below and 2. The 6 cyl head fabricated by OS Giken for Paul Newman's successful assault on the USTCC in the 80's, but to my knowledge none of these engines were turbo'd and available for road use. But if you have what you say, I'm sure I can speak for everyone here at SAU that we would be more than very interested in all pictures, specifications and any other details you have on it, as it would be the rarest of all R30 models.

Are you for real??? or just a simple PRE SCHOOL drop out??? Your suggestion says that to move a given object, there is zero advantage using a 10 foot lever oppose to a 1 foot lever, or pushing your car on your own Vs 10 people pushing your car. And where is there primary & secondary pistons in any braking system??? When I started out on my project, one of the main concerns of the engineers, was the size of the brakes Vs power/speed of the vehicle over standard. With any engineer necessary vehicle modification that improves performance, there is a mandatory requirement to show a relevent improvement to the braking system.

Depends on the adjustment. The Agress S13 tops that I have allow for up to 4 + degrees of negative camber, but put them in reverse to suit R30 and there is barely 1 degree of adjustment.

Boof, You run yours with positive camber in that case. Mine are AGRESS not GReddy as previously mentioned. No matter, not as pretty as these.

Be careful with the S13 camber tops. You will find the stud pattern the same, but in the exact reverse and therefore any adjustment is very minor. I have a pair od GReddy tops here that I'm not using at present, and haven't used them for this exact reason. Do some searching for R30 tops so that some negative camber can be achieved, about 2 degrees is plenty for our cars.

Your last paragraph/question is absurd ....... have you not found ABS yet and control goes out the door in brake lock up. An experienced driver doesn't lock up his brakes. And if I may quote "If you can lock the brakes then they have enough bite but generally with 4 pots you can have a thicker rotor so it can soak up more heat. I haven't had any problems with my standard brakes and my car gets thrashed in the hills a lot". Before I bother to answer anything you say, please explain where anything has been said or implied to COLD STOPPING in his exact words???????