Ghostrider

Your being unfair sen'ior. I agree that all white like this looks very BLAND, but my ideas of colour coded bumpers is a lot different to this. My car is 002 white over 028 grey and the door moulding is black. What I propose is that the door mouldings and top of bumpers stay black and below this is 028 grey with all 002 white above. Cheers

George, We are talkin g about the factory body kit that comes standard on DR30 RS Turbo models, and it's nearly as hard to get as rocking horse sh!t. Cheers, Dennis

George, All the electric mirrors I have seen are all black ex factiry. Some have been colour coded by the owners. Dennis

To ALL Queenslanders and others that have dealt with this cam maker. I have a small problem. Firstly, as Ivan Tighe Engineering through the motorsport world, has a reputation of being THE BEST cam builder in Australia. WHAT ARE THE CHANCES OF THEM GETTING IT ALL WRONG? I have an L series 6 cylinder cam, made by Tighe Cams, it's profile number is 312, it's advertised specs are as follows: Ex Op BBDC at 60, Ex Cl ATDC at 18, In Op BTDC at 22, In Cl ABDC at 58 Advertised duration is 258 degrees Gross Valve Lift is .472 in with Rocker Ratio of 1.5 Today I picked up the cam from CAMTECH after having the cam read by their cam doctor, and they claim the following: Ex Op BBDC at 72, Ex Cl ATDC at 44, In Op BTDC at 39, In Cl ABDC at 72 Advertised duration 291 in, 296 ex Gross Valve Lift .468 in intake & .4695 in exhaust. Can someone please tell me if and or how this is possible, that reputedly the best in Australia can get it all this very wrong. I'm not trying to stick it to Tighe Cams, I'm checking the authenticity of this given cam doctor, when they want to sell me a new cam for $330.00 Cheers, Dennis

Can anyone shed any light on the specifications of the cam in my L20ET engine. I have all the Zed car Cam specs, but it doesn't list the L20ET engine for obvious reasons.

Thanks Adam, You must think I'm a totally dumb ass deekhead. Of course, my car as you know is white over grey. 002/028 I can't find the pic we did in photo shop, but my mate is looking for it on his PC, but we left the black to coincide with the black side strips and coloured the bottom of both bars the same grey and to me it looks pretty good and I think it will look better with the stock DR body kit done in the grey as well. Each to their own I suppose, it would be very bland if they all looked the same eh! But due to the rarety of my PNV I am keeping with the stock colours. Cheers.

On the green car, what happened to the skirt part of the body kit?

Sorry, but I can't agree, I think the big bars look out of place against the thin line of the bump strips, but that's just my humble opinion. I have done mock ups of mine & I think the clour coded bumpers look excellent, but mine is two tone, not just a single body colour. Cheers

Can I ask why you haven't colour coded the bumpers like the aussie delivered Ti's

Sorry guys it could be gone, I have to give a guy postage costs today and he claioms he will do an online DD with the dollars. If I on't hear from him again I will contact everyone in order of contact. Thanks, Dennis

T03/T04 and everything similar like GT3040/GT3540 etc

You want to come and look??? The rust is only surface from the journey from Japan to Australia. If you like I will double the price and have it HPC coated, will that satisfy you??? Go buy a NEW HKS manifold and see how much change you get from a grand. An after market stainless manifold will cost you about $700 and they are renowned for cracking, then put a price on the repairs etc etc etc. These HKS manifolds have a reputation of being the BEST of the BEST and don't crack ever. You want the best, but you want to pay nothing for it. eh!!!!! AND lower price on the wastegate??? How much do you want to pay for a fully operational HKS 40mm wastegate. New they were nearly $900.00 and the spring and diaphram will cost you over $400.00, go ring BD4's and check.

Item: Genuine HKS RB20/25 Cast Iron Low mount Exhaust manifold including HKS 40mm external wastegate Location: Campbelltown Item Condition: Excellent used condition Reason for Selling: No longer required Price and Payment Conditions: $500.00 the lot or $300.00 each. COD on pick up or direct debit plus postage. Extra Info: How do I know it's a genuine HKS? they have HKS cast in them Contact Details: email [email protected] or phone 0406 142 529 or PM

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) Item: Location: Item Condition: Reason for Selling: Price and Payment Conditions: Extra Info: Contact Details: (Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) Item:1.0mm o/size ACL Race Pistons for RB25DET Location:Campbelltown Item Condition:NEW in original box complete with pins & rings & clips Reason for Selling:No longer required Price and Payment Conditions:$900.00 COD on pick up or direct deposit plus postage Extra Info: Contact Details:Email me [email protected] or phone 0406 142 529 or send me a PM

A, Let's not get into a slinging match with this because it's getting a bit off topic, but as my memory recalls, the Gibson Motorsport cars driven by Glenn Seton & George Fury had very unique works parts in them. So unique in fact that GMS had to make everything themself as they had little support from Japan as can be seen in the #30 car now owned by Terry Ashwood that ZOOM magazine did quite an extensive article on. The entire rear end is rose joints and bars from memory, to the point that they had to make their own solid 22mm half shafts to handle the power they were putting to the ground. Dennis

Geez I must have been tired last night. The 2 different part numbers for the rear trailing arms are #1 for the L24E Sedan (DRUM brakes) and #2 for GT version (DISC brakes) I would conclude from this, that all disc brake rear trailing arms, either MR, DR or HR would be identical.

I have DR & HR rear cross members and both are identical, exact same everything, rear trailing arm mounts etc etc. I have never compared MR to DR or HR arms, but know for sure the MR Hatch rear end is completely interchangeable with the same in a sedan, as I supplied a complete MR Ti Hatch rear to a guy in SA and he now has it in his sedan. The parts list I have is for R30 82 on, but lists the coupe parts as well as sedan & hatch & van. I only have DR rear arms here as I never gave it a thought that they could be different. anyhow they have calipers etc attached and they are my spares. AS for the brakes, I may be shooting my mouth off again, but my PNV is an 84 model and it has the late model m/cyl same as MR & Z31's so I assumed all late model cars would be the same. I also have a DR TOKICO booster and m/cyl which are the older style as you speak of. I think I took all the bundy tubing off my original MR hatch so I might just do the 1" upgrade as well. Surely it must be better for when I do the GTR conversion. I have read where they recommend a 1" m/cyl with the 4 & 6 pot AP conversions they're now doing for Z cars.

Sorry George, I forgot you were in KIWI land. Remind me one day to explain the meaning of that word.

Ya splittin hairs now A, I am referring to the stuffed local car that Mr Frazer so insisted had to have such a huge local content to conform. I think it was 80% or near.

Only one problem with this theory. All are not as they seem. Only 81/83 models of DR had 1" m/cylinders, all 84/85 models have only 15/16 same as Z31 300ZX. Reason, the early models had a distribution block on top of the booster and late models had the distribution in the m/cylinder. If owners of late models want to re make all their brake bundy tube lines, go ahead, the 1" cyl is available from any reputable brake service centre, but you must specify TOKICO as the brand. As for the rear trailing arm issue, the parts list shows a GT and L24E rear arm, 2 different part numbers. They also list a pre 08/81 arm that is superseded by the post 09/81 arm. Having said that, the 2 calipers are as disco says, the DR's have longer legs by about 22 odd mm to compensate for the larger rear rotor. 254 vs 290. The mount centres are identical. As seen in pic below Cheers, Dennis

Mate, You got me, I'm going to buy a BRAND NEWIE for my PNV, as I have the DR thermo fans I'm going to mount them on the back and dispose of the motor driven fan mounted on the water pump. For a few minutes of stuffing around, I'm gunna have the best. Gotta mean somethin in the power gain dept. To quote an old friend that used to race Toyota Celicas when he found the all metal GT bumpers vs Ozzy LT rubber/metal were 5kg lighter "It's gotta mean somethin" Cheers, Dennis

George, This is what Disco means, same as what RSX has done to his in this pic.

The guards don't slope or do anything different than on the MR, the lights though are very different. The DR Iron Mask lights have a different angle AND they are longer by about 30mm. Where the lights meet the guard at the side, the angles are identical. The white front at Just Jap .... forget all about it, that's where BOOF's front came from, off the same wrecked front cut and as of today, they have nothing for sale for DR Iron Mask 30's. As I said earlier, finding the parts will be a challenge in itself. Cheers, Dennis

DR Iron Mask guards are marginally different, but only where the front spoiler mounts to it in front of the front wheel arch. If you have access to an Iron Mask front, a template can be made very easily. IF you can get the necessary bits, it's 99% bolt on bits, but gettin the bits is the near impossibility (and don't ask me for them if you don't have them already) The bonnet is near impossible, the grille resembles rocking horse manure for it's availability and the headlights near the same. You can of course get a fibreglass bonnet from Japan for about $2000 or carbon fibre for $3000 I have been trying to source a grille for someone for about 3 months without success, as I'm not prepared to pay exorbitant rates for these parts. Happy hunting, as your going to need some luck and lots of patience. Cheers

Sh!t, for a near on anti R31 member, at least I got something right. S3's are the go eh! geez it only took the ozzy faction 4 years to get something still not as good as it's predecessor. Interesting to say the least. I suppose we can thank Mr Frazer for this monumental stuff up eh!