Ghostrider

Thanks A, I have a spare L20ET box now, picked one up at Newcastle off ebay for $125.00, plus I have the US T5 box and an R31 RB20DET box. I might have some fun trying to destroy some gearboxes lol SWR has my L series front housing doing the mods for it to bolt onto the RB box at present. Cheers, D

Turbo your stock L24E if it doesn't have bags of K's on it.

How many people would be interested in these adjustable caster bars? Price would be in the $300.00 pair range. As opposed to non rose jointed for about $180/200.00 that use conventional or polyurethane bushings.

The part numbers you require are as follows: Right Hand 78112-21500 Fender Left Hand 78113-21500 Fender But good luck, as the coupe never came here, these would have to be ordered ex Japan unless you can convince an parts importer to bring in the rear quarters second hand, but your going to need the rear panel 79110-21500 as well. Better off trying to convince them to bring you back a rear half cut. NOW! what about the bits you bought from me, or do i tell everyone on here what your not doing?

AS usual your a wealth of information, and thanks, as ya just saved me a few bucks buying a yoke/tailshaft for mine when I swap the RB20DET box into my PNV. The only thing I might have a problem with is the length, cause I am told the L20ET uses a stumpy short gearbox, as opposed to the RB being quite longish. Cheers, D

If your in Sydney, Neales Wheels at Enfield will make them for you to order. About $250 set of 2 and they have their own studs, bolt them to your hub and then bolt the wheels to the spacer mounted on the original hub. As a matter of interest, this is the only style of spacer CAMS will approve in Scrutineering. Cheers, D

A, Stu Wilkins doesn't have any, cause I have had them on order foir months and months, but they are coming he assures me. I will post when I know they're available and polyurethane bushes are a must with his style of adjustable caster bar. Stu's castor bars are about $180.00 pair. For interest, I can get chrome plated adjustable caster bars made, special order for about $350.00 pair, same as attachment, like Jenesis does in Japan. I can do these bars for a bit better but would need about 6 pairs on firm order if interested. D

How much different are RB25DE injectors? They are 270cc and I have all 6 of them along with the RB inlet manifold if it's of any use to you. D

I have a stock AFM you can have but don't think I kept the ECU as it was of no use to me, but they aren't difficult to get in Sydney. $10.00 would probably buy you the lot at Pick & Payless at Blacktown.

Jason's info is good, but for my money and a n/a L28 I would go down this path. Get yourself an L28E engine complete, but it should be the early version with N42 block & head. Bore it 0.040 oversize to 2818cc, get a set of L28 flat top pistons that will get you about 10:1 compression, get the head ported and flowed and for good measure power ported to ensure all runners are equal. For a cam I would use the Nismo works cam, nissan part number 13001-N3626 this cam has a 256 duration and cam lobe separation of 109 degrees. It can be found in most 260Z 2+2 coupes. Identifying mark is C on the end of the cam. Use a Nissan 280ZX Turbo inlet manifold, 65mm throttle body, off the RB25DE or U12 Pintara and 440cc Supra injectors as a minimum, 460 series 4 RX7 injectors would be better and 550's even better still. A set of mandrel bent custom headers will also be necessary for the HP and revs your looking for and a minimum of 3in exhaust system. With WEBBERS they have NO emmissions facility and therefore are totally illegal if you intend registering this car for road use. A race balance on the bottom end will be an absolute necessity if your going to rev it anything near 8000. Some force feeding of cold air will have to be established, the pickup point somewhere at the front of the car. Turbo L28 oil pump, new timing chain and sprokets and tensioner and guides are a must. Shot peening and linishing is a must for 8 or 9000 as it stress relieves the rods, something Jason didn't add was crack testing as this is the very first process, cause if you don't and you throw a rod because it had a hailine crack when assembled will mean instant destruction of an otherwise good engine For the engine management, the skies the limit, depending how deep your pokets are. But after all this, there is still one question I would want answered and that is WHY? On other pages in this forum, it has been discussed many times how power is put to the ground and the optimum tyre size for an R30 is 245/45 x 16. Bigger in diameter the tyre gets narrower and smaller in diameter the result is the same and 300 odd HP at the wheels is the best your going to use and control, more and you will spin wheels everywhere you go. I have a mate that has 195Kw (260HP) at the wheels in an R30 sedan, he has 17 x 7 wheels with 225/45 tyres and he is now slower point to point than when he had 145Kw (195HP) at the wheels, all because he now spins wheels during acceleration out of the corners. Another thing to consider is how often you intend to rebuild this engine, as L series 6 cylinder engines, similar to RB engines have a non balance related harmonics problem at about 8000 rpm (RB's @ 7500) run at these revs continuously and you risk bending your crank, do that and it means a rebuild every time. D

Autospeed, the online performance magazine recently did an exercise on engine compartment air pressures vs frontal and the short story result is that @ 60kph and above, the engine compartment pressure and that at the front of the car were both IDENTICAL, and therefore there was ZERO air flow through the radiator or any other unit situated at the front of the engine. For my take on this I have louvers in my bonnet at the front and side of the engine. Something like the reverse slats in Zed car bonnets, that work on the same high/low pressure in physics. I'm not using such a huge FMIC as most you guys, but mine is genuine HKS made for my R30 and I have been told it flows very well and capable of a lot more HP than I'm looking for. It's smaller in both dimensions, giving me space for my oil cooler on the end. BUT this discussion is not fixing wardies problems, so don't you think getting back to and sticking to the subject at hand is the preferred choice. D

Manufacturer's place air intakes at the front edge of a windscreen for that purpose, the high pressure zone is on top of the bonnet surface. Sure a percentage of the air will go down the the windscreen into the air intakes for the flow through ventilation, but I would beg to differ to your reasoning about the pressure under the bonnet, as all high pressure areas when travelling across a given surface create a low pressure zone under that surface. That's simple physics! Look at the bonnet of an R30 and the trailing edge is swept upwards. Maybe you should pass your theories across Fred Gibson when he was racing DR30's in the 80's cause both the cars #15 & #30 had the rear of the bonnet raised to allow the engine heated air out from under the bonnet which in turn increased the airflow through the radiator, intercooler, oil cooler and engine compartment generally. Have you done the experiment your talking about?

If all is ok with the flow, try replacing the radiator cap, as if that's lost tension in the spring it's allowing the coolant past the relief and into the overflow, but you said coolant levels are fine, which should eliminate this. If your down my way, or next weekend I might be going to Newcastle to pick up that gearbox I might be able to loan you a 1.3bar cap to play with and see what happens. You got a small or large cap?

That would be correct for my money. It's my understanding that there is more air coming onto the radiator at 30kph than the fan can suck through it. You want to try something a bit off beat? Try lifting the back of the bonnet about 5 or 6mm and remove the rubber seal, or better still just for the experiment, lift the bonnet about 10mm by packing the hinges with washers. This idea is just that it should release any build up of air inside the engine compartment and actually get air flowing thru the radiator and not just hitting it. This is a bit off beat cause your problem is just happening, I think otherwise it's a water/coolant circulation problem, maybe the fins on the pump have corroded away or are simply spinning on the shaft and not doing anything else. A test is drop the coolant level below filler point and see if the coolant is moving underneath, it should be moving fairly fast right to left. D

Correction 21.0mm pin diameter D

George, Maybe in the land of the long white cloud, but in Oz all MR30's wether poverty pack's or Ti's, they all had L24E's for power. According to the parts lists they all carried the same AFM & ECU, if that helps. And A, What do you mean about late model L24E's using funny conrods etc etc? I recently stripped an 85 MR30Ti hatch and in particular, the motor. The L24 rods have the same crank pin diameter as L28's and standard 22mm gudgeon pin bushes. In addition they use a 9.0mm big end bolt as opposed to the earlier 8.0mm, so I don't understand your strength comment. Cheers, D

A, Jaustech in Adelaide claim the L6 crossmember is used in R30's, with RB engine mounts, but the gearbox rear mount has to be extended backwards. D

The RB Gearbox output shaft is different, hence rsx's tailshaft mod, a new yoke to suit the RB box is required, but Stewart Wilkins here in NSW is currently modifying an L series front housing for me, so that I can have an RB20DET box behind my L20/28ET ha ha. The RB main bearing is much bigger than the L series, I'm not sure about the reverse, but RB boxes can be made to go on L6 engines relatively easily.

Has been said that the thermostat isn't necessary, but my experiences tell a diferent story, but as has been said by the others, thermostats are a consumable item and can fail in a whim, so I would be looking at the thermostat first and then the water pump. If you plan on replacing the pump check ebay, they are being sold on there for prettu good price. Search L28 for it. If it's something that has just started and you haven't experienced this problem before, it's most likely the thermostat.

Harry, How many of them made their way here to Oz?

Has to be one eh! PRODUCTION Skylines ...... does that define it accurately enough! You could very well be correct, as I don't have any personal, in black & white, hard copy evidence as to the numbers made. I only have the word of Hiroshi Taki, that they were made between 1983 - 1985 and that there were only 2000 made. I suppose we could double check his data, but as the president of the HR30 Paul Newman Register in Japan, I thought he would have known a little about what he was talking about. Maybe I can claim my PNV to be THE RAREST OF THEM ALL, as they were only manufactured from 1983 - 85 yet mine is registered in NSW as 1982. Is it a legend, a myth, or just a mirage this PNV in my garage?

Just for the ill informed. Paul Newman has been racing Nissan/Datsun cars for a long time, like a very long time before entering into The Newman Haas Champ Car/Indy Car Team. He won the USGTCC in a Bob Sharp Sponsored 280ZX Turbo, he also campaigned an R30 derivative (see my avatar) very successfully for a while and hence he was invited by Nissan for the signature series of the Limited Edition HR30 Skyline. I It was a luxury package vehicle, not a performance package as the DR was and is and will probably be the rarest of all Skylines. Only 2000 were made in various forms and only 5 ever made it downunder to Australia. Some others made it to NZ the land of the long white cloud, but numbers, nobody is sure of. For my money, my car will never be sold and I would probably buy Zeb's only that I'm considering the purchase of a new truck.

Why can't we do that here????????

And have about 6 members MAX ?????????????