Ghostrider

George, What model L20ET's are these distributors from? You got any model numbers, or part numbers/serial numbers I can check. I'll swap you, dizzy for speedo. Let me know! Cheers, D

George, You want a 200kph Speedo? I got one you can have, but will cost you the postage to NZ. You don't need the whole cluster as it's separate, as I have modified mine with the 260kph & VOLT gauge. That's something, Why? would you want a vacuum gauge in your dash anyway, a volt gauge is much more beneficial anmd it's not real difficult to get set up. 66yoStagea is trying to sell his car complete, not just wreck it. Cheers, D

For starters, the rated power is PMPO, Max power output and the RMS or rated output would probably be about 4 x 10WRMS or less. To maximise your sound systems potential, some sort of control unit can be placed between the head unit and amps or speakers. These are often sound processors, but your system head unit could have a lot of these facilities. Amps to drive the speakers are a must, when you have speakers with rated power output of 35 & 40WRMS, you would need at least half their respective power to drive them successfully, but never ever use amps with rated RMS power higher than the nominal rating of the speakers. You don't need to buy huge output amp or amps. An amp of 4 x 20 or 30 WRMS would be excellent and give you some safety margin. This can be done by using just 1 4 channel, or 2 x 2channel amps. I'm using an Graphic Equalizer between my head unit and amps, as I don't have the same features in my head unit as the modern ones. I am going through a similar exercise right now, but unlike you I have vintage issues. My HR30, built in 1984 and fairly rare in Oz, 5 that I know of, was designed with a separate am/fm radio & a cassette player. In the most part all in this era were post mount and hence I am using an '86 model post mount head unit. Kenwood KRC-200A AM/FM Radio Cassette head unit. This comes as a 4 channel system and probably 4 x 25 W max. This model uses 5 & 8 pin DIN plugs for low input, interconnect leads and have to be made, unlike the modern units use RCA. I have a Kenwood KGC-4400 Graphic Equalizer which has control facility for 50hz, 200hz 800hz, 3.2Khz & 12.8Khz frequency bands, plus fader control, sub woofer control (on/0ff) plus 50/80/150Hz frequency choice bands & level control. This has 4 leads out the back for front amp, rear amp, sub amp & connection to head unit. These can be purchased on ebay fairly cheaply if you want to go down this track, some Pioneer units and using RCA connections. I have 2 amps, front is Kenwood KAC 5020, 2 channel 25WRMS output and will drive Pioneer 4" splits TS-C1002 rated at 150W max and 50W Nominal. Rear is KAC-7020, 2 channel 45WRMS and will drive a good pair of 6 x 9's. Frequency response, sensitivity & power handling are the 3 biggies in speakers as far as I'm concerned. Once you choose your given power handling capability, it's time to choose the best speakers that will serve you best. TS-C1002 up front are rated with 70~25000Hz and 90db @ 1W/1M. As 4' speakers go, that's about as good as they get. Thanks to some recommendation from this forum, I will probably go with Pioneer TS-A6971E 6 x 9's rated with 25~30000hz and 93db @ 1W/1M. Power handling 320W max & 80WRMS. Something to remember that the BOOM BOOM rap mad teenagers don't do, is that the human ear cannot hear below 20Hz, it can be felt, but not heard. As our cars are far from the perfect sound room, I can't see any point in having speakers that respond to less than 25/30Hz. Most reasonable 6 x 9's do this, so why do we need subs. Cheers, D

For what it's worth ........ After over 20 years as a sacurity consultant, anything with noise attached to it, isn't worth sh!t, as over 90% of the public don't want to get involved & the other 10% might only look and maybe observe. With any of the tracking type systems, be sure to know what systems they use for the tracking, most use sattelite tracking, but identification and location is the issue, such as map referrences or grid coordinates etc. and what retrieval system do they use. If you live on the outskirts of town, be sure that they can track beyond a street directory, otherwise it's useless. Be sure they use other back up to the police for retrieval, the police have to be in attendance in NSW before the car can be immobilised, but some use private security operatives to track the car till the police arrive and assist with the arrests. Failing all this, the best kind is something that makes the car totally immobilised where it's parked by it's owner. I have 2 in my car, one covers the other and I can leave the keys in the ignition and it can't be stolen other than on a Tilt Tray. Cheers, D

I have some of these if anyones interested.

Very good Rezz, but "Who is the company?"

Be nice if you could get Corvettes for 52G's out here.

I was recently given this little quiz by another member "66yostagea" and now I pose it to the masses. The very first vehicle I bought was a Bradford Van. The last new vehicle I bought in 1998 had an engine developed from the Bradford's originators. One of their models won it's class at Le Mans 24HR race, but not sure of year. WHO ARE THEY??? and ............... What was the car & year???

OK! Best option opinion please. TS-A6971E or TS-D691S or R??? Cheers, D

As your in Qld, probably easier to get a couple of sets of King Springs. Tell them what your planning for the car and what rates you want and they will probably make them for you. If your intending to drive it on the road, 200lb/in would be heaps on the back and make a corresponding front pair at about 33% stiffer. eg, 200lb/in rears ............ 260lb/in fronts. If it's a drift car ONLY! you can make the rears a little stiffer to maybe 250lb/in and get a stiffer/thicker than standard 20mm rear sway bar. Ride height is a matter of choice, but 30mm lowered is usually the normal go. Camber adjustable strut tops for the front are near impossible to find for anything R30, but S13 tops are the same stud pattern and could be modified to get you about 2 - 3 degrees. They will give a tad over 1.5% as they are, but to get more, mods are needed. Will PM you with contact details about the Koni's etc. Cheers, D

I got one from my L28E if that helps. Cheers, D

I gotta agree with your Ford & Holden comments though. A little true story that actually happened to me. In 1972 I had a job that involved the pre delivery of company vehicles and our dated fleet were HK & HT Holden Belmont Sedan's. A deal was done for them to be replaced by run out XW and current XY Falcon sedans and Futuras. I took delivery at City Ford at Oxford Street and took it back to the company garage on Elizabeth Street Redfern for all the usual checks. In those days automatic pumps were in existance, so I hooked the auto clip on and proceeded to check oil, tyre pressure, water, etc, etc, etc and returned to the pump to check if full. The pump was still running with over 25 gallons on the meter. As these falcons had only 16 gallon tanks I figured there was a problem. I turned the pump off and opened the boot and guess what, it was full of petrol. The tank fitted hadn't been welded together properly and the petrol spilled out into the boot once past half full. Another, the very next week had a right front brake calliper fall off under braking for the bottom of Mt Ouseley, in transit to Shellharbour. Good start for the new fleet eh! The JD not so much, cause they left the power steering pump in same position as JB. VN's right on again, saw many a new V6 scatter in less than 10K. And I will have a look through my archives and try to post you some of the designs the god's at Leyland overlooked for the ugly thing they settled with for P76. As for in trouble, that they were, but Chrysler still buried them. Cheers, D

Cazz, You are probably one of the three oldest members of SAU that I know of, you can probably guess the other two. Couple of things though, BMC/British Leyland didn't go bust building the P76 as such. The biggest single action that bought about the demise of the company was the Australian Motoring Media, that made certain decisions about Australia not being big enough to support 3 Car manufacturers and it's totally negative publicity campagne it waged against the P76. As the P76 was not Australia's favourite, it wasn't as bad as the media made out. As a matter of fact, it was Chrysler in South Australia that drove the final nail in British Leyland's coffin. If you cast your memory back to 1973, when Chrysler, Ford & Holden were all building the super car just to win Bathurst, yet one car would have stood in their way. Chrysler had a 427 Hemi Charger on the go, Ford an equally big 7 litre GT Falcon and Holden the 305? V8 LJ XU2. As for popularity in cars, I think the first Magna was the TM. If you put the P76 and the TM series Magna side by side, they are very similar in a lot of respects, just years apart and the Magna, a smaller version. Similarly the JB Camira was a pig, yet the JE was a great little car. The engine it's best asset, the same engine that became the bottom end of the DOHC Calibra engine. I agree the 3.5 V6 series of Magna's were a nice car and carried probably too much stigma from the early cops, but are you aware the 380 has had more recalls than can be counted on both hands. Lots of little things, but still recalls, as they were considered as that potentially dangerous. When you add them to the time it took to get the 380 into the market place, I think they could have done much better. Cheers, D

Well Mr Duncan Sir, You are 100% correct! Back in those dim dark years of my youth, 1966 to be exact, when Mini's reigned supreme over just about every major motor racing event in the world, a works driver by the name of Paddy Hopkirk put down the fastest lap ever by a Cooper S at Bathurst. Although he & co driver Brian Foley, had a DNF, due to various mechanical failures and Rauno Aaltonen & Bob Holden went on to win the event, he still posted the fastest time in his works Cooper S. He admitted after being challenged about why he went through more disc pads than the other drivers he simply answered, as we had no hope of winning the race I just wanted to see how fast they would go. What he did was, across the top of the mountain through all the esses, dipper, skyline etc, had his right foot firmly planted on the floor and left foot braked when needed, still going flat out with his foot on the floor. He proved that weekend there was a quick way to get a little mini around Bathurst. Cheers, D

THanks, As some know I have an older than most model Skyline and really don't want to start hacking up the door trims to fit bigger speakers than can go into the dash relatively easily. 4" splits in the front don't pose much trouble, as the tweeter can go in the cover piece under the dash, but the rear shelf does have a few issues. 5.25 is the largest that will go on the rear deck without spacers, so I made spacers that can accommodate 6 x 9's. Hence why I ask the question. Cheers, D

I knew you would know the answer my friend, but I wondered if the youngens knew. It takes old fossils like us to know some of these things. It was the same design, as Nissan bought the plans off Leyland in the UK and took them back to Japan & lightened it somewhat. I think the Nissan version was near on 100kg lighter than the BMC version.

I'm not 20 anymore and don't really need to blow my brains out with sound, but do like to listen to some music loud. I am trying to avoid subs and I'm limiting my power output to 45 WRMS per channel. I have Pioneer TS-C1002 4" splits for the front (rated at 50 W Nominal) and wanted to use either Pioneer TS-A6971E or Kenwood KFC-M6935A 6 x 9's. Both rated at 70/80W nominal. Both have very similar specs, 25Hz - 30000, 93db @ 1W/me, 4ohm, but the Kewood's have larger ferrite magnets and a much larger mid range. Hence my original question. Cheers, D

Sorry! but you lost me with "Mitsubishi building very good cars" I don't think anything Mitsubishi is much good with the exceptions of Lancer & Mirage. I don't know if your aware of this, but in the early 90's Mitsubishi had a "Fast Moving Parts Catalogue" as I suspect most manufacturers would have, but in Mitsubishi's case on the first page was ENGINES. That alone was enough for me. Something else you might want to consider. Are you aware, that up till about 1999, Mitsubishi dealers across the state, although having the assistance of Wheels Car of the Year, Lancers & Mirages many times and probably two of the best small cars ever built, FAILED TO TURN A PROFIT. And we wonder why they haven't fallen off the perch yet. Also, it was in some part the same dinosaur thinking (Button plan) that brought about the downfall of Leyland in Australia. Are you aware of why BMC or BL actually closed their doors in Australia? And as this is a Nissan forum, "Do you know where the original 1200cc 4 cyl Bluebird engine came from" Cheers, D

I know about the local content, where in Oz they were built didn't matter, but correct me if I'm wrong ................. but it is my understanding that the Ozzy R31 was born due to a legacy left by Malcolm Frazer that all locally sold o/seas vehicles had to have 80% local content, for them to get the imported parts into the country under by law tarrif classifications and avoid huge import duty as part of his ideas to streamline the Australian Auto Industry. Hence the RB powered VL's, Holden Astra (Pulsar) and flow ons like Holden/Toyota, Nissan/Ford etc. Cheers.

I find this hard to believe ......... over 20 have viewed this thread and NOTHING, not any response. Where are all the audio god's that know all there is to know? I want to put 6 x 9's in the back but I'm not prepared to put just anything in. Doesn't anyone know anything about the best combination or construction of auto audio speakers today, or do we just believe the guy on the other side of the counter that's trying to sell them to you.

Hi All, I have been told I need an R33 GTS 25t Electronic Boost Control Solenoid to go with a Jaycar EBC. Anyone that has got one they're not using, or have fitteed a bleed off control and you're prepared to part with it, PLEASE LET ME KNOW. Thanks, Dennis

Hi All, For the audio guru's. In 6 x 9, 3 ways, is it better to have a large or small mid range cone & why? Cheers, Dennis

Hi ALL, This might be a silly question, but where can I get an Electronic Boost Control Solenoid to go with the Jaycar Controller Kit. Thanks, Dennis

I saw this ....... It's advertised as a GT! I am curious as to it's authenticity? GT or GL 240K

Get in touch with "66yostagea" he has an MR30 that he's owned since new that you might get for a good price. Lighter than an R31, basically the same size as an R31, IRS, fully imported, much better than the basic locally made R31's in my opinion and take an RB conversion fairly easily. Cheers, D