Ghostrider

This, in my opinion is dependent on which model VG30ET we're talking about. The first series that came to Oz in the Z31 was only twin cam 12V, yet later models 24V's. The RB30ET turbo is exactly the same as the US spec L28ET turbo, a conventional bearing T03, where the VG30 Z31 turbo was ball bearing (ceramic) and was a much better performer and flows a lot more air for the same psi of boost. Cheers, D

What about the FLYWHEEL, I don't see that on your list George. Cheers, D

You going to do the short shift modification to your gear lever???????

What SteveL says is correct, the conversion to front sump isn't merely a bolt on and re-drill affair. There is an oil gallery right where the front sump dipstick hole has to be drilled in L28 blocks. The easiest way is a bit agricultural, but it works very well. see attached pic. (SteveL had an F54 block once, supposed to be converted to front sump, if he will sell it) If you want to stay perfectly stock looking an L24E block is your only option, failing bore and sleeve the L20ET block. The considered opinion for bore, is that an L28 block should take 2.0mm o/size with ease, if your going 3.0mm to 89.0mm the block should be sonic tested first to be sure, as some will and some wont take the 89mm bore. As for inlet manifolds, it is my belief that both L28ET & L20ET are the same, as I have both and I can't see any difference, same with exhaust turbo manifolds. I'm building an L28ET at the moment, F54 block, P90 head, stock L28ET cam (ex USA) both L28ET AFM & ECU's (ex USA) 1.0mm o/size, flat top pistons (8.7:1) 460 injectors, VG30 turbo and I'm expecting about 300rwhp @ 14psi with an electronic boost controller. What you can consider is that our HR30 coupes are a lot lighter than a similar Zed car and we don't need masses of power to be as quick. Cheers, D

How long is this going to go on????????? From an outsiders point of view, there is no end to this. You said, I said, you said, I said and so it goes on ................... This is a never ending story, but my take on what I'm reading is this, "don't confuse me with facts, my mind is made up". Sh!t! where is a letter writer when you need one? Cheers, D

Geeez Ben, That was a long time ago. But yes! after a new switch they worked fine thank you, but this is an all new one. Cheers, D

Thanks CAZZ, But I assume your referring to Bresciani Racing, and as they are a predominantly drag (ET) oriented business, I would assume their cars were AUTO for a whole diferent reason than you're inferring. I would also assume the transmission was a 2 speed Powerglide, same as near every quick drag car runs, from top liner's down and they don't use them to stay on boost, they use them because they will handle massive amounts of HP, that top line drag cars produce. As for your auto conversion, your very much off the track and out of line, cause this person/member wanted to do it on the cheap, and there is and was nothing cheap about yours or my conversion. Cheers, D

Thank you AgentR31, The mind boggles a bit why anyone would want to performance mod an auto R31. I wanted a tow car for my HR30, so I just put a V8 into my Cressida, all problems solved, will pull the side off a house. Cheers, D

This is my exact point Josh. What's stage ONE (1)? Short shifters shorten the throw by about 20mm, so I guess a stage one (1) is less, maybe only 5 or 10mm. If this is the case, do all of us with 20mm have the full house real racer, stage 4 or 5 short shifters. And for interest, does your MR30 have the short shift kit in it? Cheers, D

JUST DID! Shift Kit Stage One, stage 1 shift kit, R31 stage 1 shift kit, Nissan Skyline R31 Shift Kit Stage One, and many other derivatives all DREW A BLANK. Now maybe you could try to explain or show me where I can find it via a link maybe. But other than a stick of gelly, I can't see much point of any mod to a GXL R31, unless you got a heap of bucks to through around. Cheers, D

Harry, According to all my beaut R30 sales brochures, the red is 013 and the black is 375. Cheers, D

Pardon my ignorance, but "what the f@#k is a STAGE 1 shift Kit???

Under $200 might be a bit stiff! I have been quoted $350 for an aussie R30 box in reasonable condition, 2nd hand from a wrecker. I have also biught an L20ET box for $120.00 but reverse was a bit iffy, so I had it rebuilt. I also have a US Spec BW T5 and am getting Stewart Wilkins to mod an L series front housing to accomodate an RB20DET box.

I wonder about a couple of patches some times too!

What model DR30 is it?? Year??? Cheers, D

Did you buy that car????????? I have pics of it somewhere when he had it at the Oran Park round of the Drift Nationals a few years back. It was parked in the carpark when I noticed it. Looked like a very clean example. Cheers, D

The Australian S12 Gazelle has a live rear axle and imported R200 IRS S12 Silvia's are a bit like rocking horse poo! I can't see a problem using some front parts although the lower arms are probably shorter, but haven't put a tape over them to find out. IF your questions are related to the S13 height adjustable strut conversions the guys have been talking about, I really don't understand why? as there are kits about to make stock R30 front struts into coil overs and I would think it easier than trying to adapt the S13 set up to it. The imported U11 Bluebird and DR30 front struts are fairly readily available from places like SSS Automotive in Girraween NSW (9896 6111) for about $500 pair, which includes the brakes (calipers & rotors) which is a fairly good deal I think. New slotted rotors are available from RDA & DBA, but the rears need some slight modifications to fit them (4 or 5mm spacers) and then you will have stopping power that is fairly good and all bolt on. Cheers, D

It had too many doors, otherwise I would have bought it. Cheers, D

Well sir! Nissan have nothing in their range that is comparitive. Skylines won't do the towing tasks I want the Cressida for. I did look at Q45 Infinity, but for such a big car, I was very dissapointed in the interior space for a big person & a Stagea is just too much money for now. Cheers, D

As for the T*y**a I picked up from Newcastle today. It happens to be an 88 MX83 Cressida with a 1UZ FE up front. For those uninitiated, a 1UZ FE is a 4.0L Quad Cam 32V all alloy V8 and is sourced from the Crown Majesta & Celsior/LS400 Lexus. 192Kw @ 5400 & 354Nm @ 4000 and 207Kw @ 6000 & 400Nm @ 4000 respectively. Will let you know more later. Cheers, D

Very old theory with coolant my friend. Nulon does a long life product guaranteed to 20000Km and I wouls certainly hope you change your oil more frequently than that. Cheers, D

He now has an ACL Monotorque VRS set, with the assistance of me. He should be ok now. Cheers, D

Well! I'm going on the advice of Stewart Wilkins & Co, but I would wonder what happened the last time. When you had it off the last time, did you get it serviced, opr checked that it was flat and or maybe get a few thou taken off to be sure. I have an L24 VRS set you can have for free john, but I'm not sure that the L24 & L28 gaskets are the same as there is some 3mm difference in bore sizes. L24 83 & L28 86mm. There is a guy on ebay selling L24E VRS sets for $37.50 and that's very cheap by all reports. May I suggest that set & a genuine head gasket, but get the head surface ground at the very least to ensure it was flat before the new assembly. Cheers, D

There is ONLY one head gasket for any L series and that is a NISSAN genuine item. The best of the engine builders use KD Gasket sets, but always buy a genuine head gasket. Stewart Wilkins and Arthur Jackson always use genuine Nissan head gaskets and as recent as last saturday, Stewart told me he considers KD gaskets as second only to genuine, but their head gaskets are not up to it, so they buy the genuine. The whole L series complete gasket kit will cost me about $210 including the head gasket. Cheers, D

Josh, These guys also suggested sourcing an imported U11 Bluebird rack, as they were power assisted. Has anyone considered the U12 Pintara/Bluebird rack as they would be fairly easily acquired here in Oz. I'm going to be just as lazy, cause I'm staying with the original power assisted steering box, just tighten it up a tad and keep the ball joints up to spec. Cheers, D