Ghostrider

Do you have a copy of the S2 Supplement & wiring diagrams? Cheers, D

That's conditional that it's blown across a cooling hole, but if it has blown across an oil gallery, you would get a very different result. Has anyone thought of using a compression gauge to get a more accurate result? or maybe do test to see if the exhaust gases are in the radiator. Any mechanic has the gear, they put a dye in a canister and hold it over the radiator and it changes colour with the gases mixing and reacting with the dye. Cheers, D

Just put a vernier over the front calipers & the DR pistons measure 2.325 inches as opposed to MR 2.126. Hope this helps. Take some good advice, these DR brakes are THE BEST bang for the buck available. Fit them with EBC Green pads or Bendix Ultimate up front & EBC blacks on the rear and you will have extremely good braking with 15/16 m/cyl and stock booster. Slotted rotors are available for DR but you will find the front number on DBA's listing under Z31 & rears too, but rears on Z31 have a different hat height and a 4 or 5mm spacer washer will have to be made up to compensate for the different height. Cheers, D

Just my 2 bob's worth. I think it's a waste of time and money, in particular if your paying someone to do it. All the proof coating has to come off then replaced after welding etc etc etc. I'm never selling my HR30 PNV, or don't intend to before I croak at least. I have a 300HP + engine going in and I'm not doing anything like what your suggesting. Strut braces front and rear, possible rear floor brace, and that's about it for me and I can't see any problems. Unless your going into full noise racing, I wouldn't bother, but having said that, go ask Gavin, the guy rebuilding the original George Fury #30 car and ask him IF they (Fred Gibson Motorsport) seam welded the body. I would be interested to know his answers. Cheers, D

SSS Automotive in Girraween NSW 9896 6111 has DR front strut assemblies for about $500 a pair. Be VERY CAREFULL with rear calipers. They are getting very old now and you should check the slop in the bearings (pivot) hand brake cable to caliper (lever adjusting cam), as if the needle rollers are either broken or missing, THEY CAN NOT BE REPLACED, as they were NEVER available as a replacement part. For rear brakes, my suggestion is to source in Adelaide, the complete rear end minus diff etc from an MR30 Ti Hatch and pay thier price. You will get the handbrake cables, which you need as they're diferent to drum cables. For a road car, the MR calipers can be mounted into DR legs and you really won't notice much diferrence. Same time grab the disc brake master cylinder as if changing to a 15/16 you might have to change the valving for disc brakes. I have a 15/16 you can have cheap, but I'm not positive about the valving so it would have to be checked against the Ti hatch m/cyl. Cheers, D

MR30 Ti HATCH rear ends are Disc brake and are a direct bolt on swap. The DR brake specs are: 1. Ten (10) inch Brake Booster (very hard to get in good condition today) 2. One (1) inch master cylinder (equally as hard to get today) 3. Rear discs are 290 x 10 solid as opposed to 258 x 10 (MR) 4. Rear caliper piston dia is 1.685 inches as opposed to 1.503 (MR) 5. Front rotors are 274 x 22 ventilated as opposed to 250 x 18 (MR) 6. Front caliper also much larger piston dia Remember that if changing from MR/HR brakes on late models (84/5) to DR you will need new front brake lines (same as early models up to 83) because they use and need a distribution block that mounts on top of the booster. The late model MR/HR's have the distribution in the master cylinder and the biggest master in this derivative is 15/16 and the stock booster (servo unit) is only 9.5 inches in dia. Cheers, D

I'm going to be another of the Devil's Advocate variety. You claim 103.4 rwkw????? Where you get that when the RB30E is rated at 114kw at the flywheel????? An RB20DET will deliver about 140 something kw at the fly and bags LESS torque than the stock RB30E. Remember HP (Kw) is only good at the top end of the rev range and it's the torque you need to get you off the line and I guess make a good drifter. The S2 GTS RB30E delivered 142Kw at the fly and for all intents and purposes your car will LOOK stock as a rock under the bonnet. Any VL Turbo, RB30ET delivers about 150Kw at the fly, along with bags of torque, so why wouldn't this be in your plans of modifications? I just can't see the sense, when you want to use the car as a learning curve for drifting, your going to even consider an RB20 when the stock RB30 with a cam, injectors and extractors and I think a head job to increase the compression and some ECU mods, you can attain a far better overall package for your purposes. Send a PM to CAZZ and ask her advice before you go heading into engine swaps, she knows probably more about aussie R31's than most on here claim to know. Cheers, D

Me niether, I'll get a copy of the article and read it. But doesn't alter the fact that Johnny's trying to get more dollars out of LPG by applying excise. Cheers, D

As has been said, Why would you bother??? The point I was trying to make, apart from compatability is this. Conversion cost, no matter how or where is about $2000.00 and as LPG burns so much hotter, irrespective of octane rating, it uses more fuel by about 20% and therefore, for the average person it's going to take 2 or maybe 3 years to recover the cost of the conversion and by then, IF the libs are still in power then, you can bet your ass that the excise will be on it and the price will be much the same as petrol per litre. Cheers, D

Does my PNV rate on here? It is 1 of probably only 2 or maybe 3 in Oz. Does it qualify as rare??? Cheers, D

Doesn't anybody listen to our politicians and in particular, little Johnny himself? LPG is a panic attack idea when oil gets expensive, but as is the current situation, little Johnny is throwing $2000 at us to convert to LPG, but there is about a 9 month waiting list to get it fitted to anything, let alone a Skyline. The biggest problem facing a conversion like this is it's compatability with the stock ECU and not all cars are compatible. My 1UZ for example, is not compatible and anything fitted with any UZ engine, I know not Nissan, (Landcruisers etc with 2UZ & 3UZ) they have not yet designed a compatible system for this engine derivative. Now! getting back to the man, little Johnny, he has been making noises for the past 3 years about placing the excise that's on petrol, onto LPG, so in time your going to be paying nearly the same for LPG as petrol, so WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER, when LPG burns so much hotter, as it's dryer and you use 20/30% more in quantity. Just my 2 bobs worth. Cheers, D

Always believed the R30 to be the best Skyline ever to come to these shores and until the R32 got sold in limited quantities in GTR spec by Nissan, it was widely considered in the automotive industry as the best as well. As is fairly well documented I now own one of the rarest of all R30 Skylines, 1 of just 2 or 3 in Oz and 1 of only 2 or 3000 made all up between '83/'85. It's not about the power, as the L20ET doesn't understand what that is, but for it's rarety value and unique design. It's going to be a long time, if ever, before the R32 & 33's become cult status in Japan, as the R30's do now. The BNR32 GTR will always hold it's head high, as the fastest of all Skylines at Le Mans.

7 Hours Ska??? I live in Sydney and I'm comin up to see my friend so I might/probably be there but alas in my 1UZ Toyota. Was once going to buy a Stagea, but how could I pass up 6 bolt mains and forged pistons standard.

Get a 1UZ Cressida .......... gets 10/11L/100 all day long

From the pics available, I would think the governing factor would be the turret. If it doesn't cost a bomb to bring it back to shape, it looks like a proposition, but it would also depend on the chassis alignment. I still say there is a lot more to this story that isn't being told. Remember, gradual acceleration to 100k and it flipped TWICE, not just a single rollover, but it went over twice. Today, in the rain on Sydney's M7 on ramp I was under hard acceleration in my Cressida and there was no sign of it doing anything but behave itself, so I guess we will never really know eh! And I'm damn sure my Cressida accelerates heaps faster than any R33 GT. Cheers, D

Does everyone know what ETHANOL really is??????? Us old timers have been using ethanol as a fuel improver for years, a Shell garage that used to be on the corner of King Georges Rd & Princes Hwy at Blakehurst used to pump it out of the ground at the bowser, and a BP service station on corner of Terry St & King Georges Rd used to pump it as well. Sydneykid should remember these 2 places. The difference is, in our younger days they called it different names, Shell was Methyl Benzine, BP was Benzol, Ampol was Toluol, but bottom line is, it's all the same stuff as the new wonder drug for cars, ETHANOL. If your car is tuned to run on it, it can only be better in every way. The problem I guess with most of our EFI cars today, without some tricking up, the factory ECU's can't recognise the difference and hence the problems. As a youngen, I used to get in Sydney a super (leaded for the juveniles) grade fuel that was often 105 ron octane. It was marketed by Boral under the name FLEETWING 100 and it really is a pity we can't get anything like it these days, unless buying specialised performance fuels. Cheers, D

Sorry to be a dampener on this and it's unfortunate you have had this accident and being uninsured, BUT!! something doesn't ring true for me! Your doing about 30kph approaching the eastern freeway AND it was BUSY as well as wet. Your gf accelerates easily to 100k on a straight road and the rear steps out? Sorry! not for me! there is something about this story we don't know. I might be a fossil, but I have driven a lot of fast cars in all sorts of conditions, but unless there is something wrong with the car, it shouldn't be stepping out under easy acceleration. Remember the BUSY bit, but hasn't hit anything else but the wall. I just got back from Melbourne and was given the royal tour, so I am a little familiar with the roads. Cheers, D

Why would anybody bother??? There is only one Aston Martin worth owning in my books and that's a 1969/72 DBSV8. Anything that can go from 0 to 100mph and back to 0 in about the same time as we can walk across the road will do me (13.8 secs) A good one can be bought today for under $50,000.00 so compared to anything Nissan it represents good value. Anyway, it is one of the last true Aston Martins, as Ford bought a controlling interest in about 1975. Just look at the current series, all are 5.0L not the 5.3L Quad Cam of these classics. Cheers, D

And WOFTAM is W aste o f F @#king T ime and M oney

If off the line sluggishness is not a problem, try looking at a set of Triumph 2500TC 1 3/4 SU's, if a manifold is available. I think MGB's also ran them but I think they were 1 1/2's. They have an infinite amount of jet & needle combinations available for them and are still relatively easy to get. I found them far superior to the Jap copies it wasn't funny when I was running them on a 180B SSS. The air speed through the carbies is not good from a standing start, but once moving it was a very good combination. The same thing was found when using Dellorto's Vs Webber's in my early days when playing with Hillman's, the smallest Dellorto was 42mm but 40mm Webbers were the best. Tuning is relatively simple, if you buy a balance flow guage. Cheers, D

Check the plugs that connect to the globes, they could be burnt too and or melted. Cheers, D

I'll go with stagefumer as far as your clutch goes, I had the same problem when mine sat for 3 years in the garage. It wasn't such a biggie for me as I was replacing the slave cylinder in any case. For anyone that wants to know and is using a heavier weight clutch plate diaphram the VL uses a 7/8 (22mm) slave cylinder as opposed to our 3/4 (19.05mm) More fluid, less pedal pressure and easier on the legs. I have an auxilliary harness for mine, it's got written on it "Bosch System Harness" and as per pic, it has it's own relays for each bulb and heavier gauge wiring. I'm going to use it with Rallyart 170/130 H4's and IPF 130 H1's. What happens when using high power globes, the heat generated by the power draw from the globes, is too much for the standard wiring, as it's not designed for them. Maybe if you source low input high output globes, like designed for the new style polycarbonate headlamps used in some cars today they will fix your problem. But if the heat generated has already burnt the wiring, take it to an auto elec and get him to rewire heavier gauge wiring across the headlights and your problem should be gone. Cheers, D

Not R33's, thank you. They is modern heaps of crap. In my humble opinion the BNR32 GTR is the only modern that I would call a classic. Cheers, D

Bought the mag last night. Looks pretty good for a 4 door, but the article says you did it on the cheap, (tight budget) but bought the car for $5000. It must have cost you a bomb to get it to the point it is now, so how can it be anything cheap. I just finished a conversion and I know what that cost me and it wasn't what I thought it would be. Anyway, good looking gadget it is, must be fun to drive, I know what mine is like with just 140. Cheers, D

Sorry to hijack this thread, but David I don't see you on the Classic Skyline register yet. But my main question, is your 4 dr a Paul Newman Version or stock HR30, as we are trying to locate a 4dr version, last seen in Qld. Cheers, D