Ghostrider

Well guys, I picked up mine from Slide whilst on another quick visit to the Gold Coast last week. I'm going to take some pics of both the high flow and stocky so that you can have exact comparisons to look at, but I'm looking forward to getting my L28 finished so I can put the turbo through it's paces. Cheers, D

This car you refer to is a friend of mine in Adelaide and I can tell you this, at 200kph on Braidwood Rd it goes like stink and stops marginally fair in my opinion, for the Dunnydore front brakes he has. Cheers, D Back home from hols in sunny Qld

It is my understanding the R230 diff is the viscous LSD short nose and is not suitable for the R30, but if it's an R200 long nose mechanical it should be fine, BUT what you going to use for half shafts? VG30 turbine assembly will be far to big for your L24 and be laggy as! Cheers, D

Yeah! I reckon that's the go. If you look at the pic I left on #8 it's a modified version of that GReddy set up you have. With a little luck I'm going to have enough room to get past the air cond filter and have enough space on the end for a small oil cooler. I am looking into solid mounting the pipes going through the radiator support panel and joining onto them each side. The best part of this setup and an L series is the TB is out in front and needs just a very short pipe past the radiator. Cheers, D

Sorry Matt, You know my answer to your quiz. Anything R31 is a brick in comparison to an R30. Cheers, D

Weapon ??????????? Can't use anymore than about 350HP but an RB will do it a bit easier than my L series. One day I might throw down the gauntlet and find out lol Cheers, D

Don't follow Funky, The front face rims were made up because one of the outers was stuffed and he didn't have the profile for BBS Lorinser rims. The outer with the new inner is original if that's what your referring to and vice versa on the others. The original bolts were six pointed star headed instead of button head caps. And talk to him about the mods you speak of, as I don't know for sure. Cheers, D

The oil pump is a must, you have to get a turbo L series oil pump. The L20ET pump will do, but you can get bigger, just depends on how much money you want to spend. I have a type 1 BOV if it's of any use to you, I bought it for a similar conversion but never used it. I also have a new VDO Boost gauge and a manual boost controller (same as advertised on these forums) a bleed off type ball valve controller. PM me if your interested. Cheers, D

Have you ever stopped to consider ............. at track days and WSID etc, those holes in the centre are maditory. Wheel covers, centres etc are not allowed, the nuts have to be visible, as I found out after I went to the trouble of getting centres spun for my BBS Lorinser wheels (see splumph thread) Cheers, D

OK Guys, The pics below are what I had done by Oz Wheels. P1080001 is the side view of my new inner rim P1080002 is the back view of same new inner rim P1080003 is the side view of my new outer rim P1080004 is the front view of same new outer rim In the deal you get the outer rim polished and in my deal of 2 outers & 2 inners I replaced the bolts. All up mine cost $800.00, it may be a little cheaper if using existing bolts, but as these are going to be my track rims I figured the investment worth while. Cheers, D

What's with "Watanabes" they're like arseholes, everybody has them, what happened to some individuality? Anyone would think they are the ONLY wheel made for Skylines. Cheers, D

Oz Wheels has moved! As of today and he hasn't completely moved in as yet. New address: Oz Wheels 86 Glossop Street St MARY'S NSW Peter is the owner 02 9606 6468 0404 844 806 Spoke to Peter today and he is expecting your calls. Cheers, D

Funky, There is a guy called Oz Wheels in Leppington that will custom spin anything you want for about $160/200 per side. Any width, any diameter. If you want I'll get you his number and address, I have his business card at home somewhere. I can take some pics of his work and post them if you like. As soon as I get my internet connection up again, Telstra f@#ked up the speed change connection yesterday. He spins rims for Simmonds for sizes they don't do anymore, makes a lot of Porsche Cup wheels. I had him rework a set of BBS Lorinser wheels for my PNV. Made 2 x outers for rear and 2 x inners for front making 8's all round. That's 4 rims for $800.00 Cheers, D

That's ok, it's just that I wasn't exactly shore when the S2 change came in 83. As yours is an S2, made for the 84/85 market you can be sure you have 8.9:1 compression. You want to send me a PM with some numbers for you, coz I'm going to be in Qld later this month. Cheers, D

Me too! I guess the front of your MR and my HR are similar? I will be sacrificing the headlight washer pump, but I think a bit of custom pipe work for the air con connection to the filter will be my only concern. There is 60 & 70mm clearance over and in front of the filter for pipes to go. The configuration and size of the intercooler is the biggest consideration. It is my belief that core sizes in the vicinity of 600 x 300 x 100 are a WOFTAM for our application. These things flow enough air for upwards to 1000HP and when we are talking in less than half, I can't see the point. A long time back now rsx84 put me onto a DR30 HKS Drag Intercooler at Option 1 Garages in Brisbane. Everyone on this forum, including himself ignored it and dismissed it as it wasn't big enough for their application. What they didn't consider was the maker (HKS) and the purpose it was designed and built. It's only 400 x 280 x 65 core, but it flows a huge amount of air and enough to easily support 5 or 600HP. Some imaginative piping has to be made so it works with the L series, but it still is probably better than the monsters they fit to their own vehicles. Some on these forums believe stock R32 & R33 intercoolers will flow 350HP and thats more than enough for a turbo L24E and are quite compact and have the piping going the right way. Have you ever considered this configuration??? It is by far big enough for my L28et application & I'm looking at 300+ HP at the wheels on a good day at under a bar of boost. Cheers, D

It's not rocket science! Just remove the overflow bottle and run both in & out pipes through the radiator support panel beside the radiator. Cheers, D

Wide or narrow front & rear bumpers?

What vintage is your R30? D

This give you the right ideas? Cheers, D

That's all under control, you got a frame picked out for it yet??????? D

Bore x Stroke: 83.0 x 73.7 Displacement: 2393cc Compression: pre '83 8.5:1 & post 8.9:1 Max Power: 93.4Kw @ 5600 Max Torque: 179Nm @ 4400 Tank: 65L Gear ratios: 1st 3.321:1, 2nd 1.902:1, 3rd 1.308:1, 4th 1.000:1, 5th 0.833:1 Rev 2.400:1 Final Drive 3.900:1 Length: 4620mm Width: 1675mm Height: 1390mm Wheelbase: 2615mm Track: 1410F & 1395/1400R Ground Clearance: 160mm Turning Circle: 11.2M Kerb Weight: 1215/1250kg Anything else????? Cheers, D

He is in NZ and can't get the part there, that's why he is asking here and the patrol unit IS NOT EXACTLY the same. Depends on the model, year etc etc etc. I have Aust R30, Imported R30, ET Pulsar and Patrol headlight switch assemblies and they can be all different and that's why I asked for the plug & pins connections. Cheers, D

Why bother??? You save about 10kg on an R32 and shell out about $1500.00? Go on a diet! Cheers, D

Pete, After the dollars you have obviously spent on this, why cut corners with brake lines? You have upgraded to 296 x 32 rotors & 4 spot callipers, yet use rubber brake lines in lieu of about $80.00 for s/s braided teflon. Cheers, D