Ghostrider

From an outsiders point of view, it was dissapointing that only S1's were represented. It would have been nice to have an S2 in the fiels and 66yo tells me there was one parked along the esplanade. Maybe next time! But it was a great show for those that were interested and it was a relief to find all the owners were human and not stuck in the mud one make minded. Maybe I will see them on my next venture north. Cheers, D

What diameter did you get for $165/pair? Front ??? & Rear ??? I'm not a huge fan of Whiteline, but they will make anything you ask for, but you are on your own if something breaks due to your poor design order. They warranty the bar, but not the end result. And I bought NEW! not second hand. Cheers, D

You will find KA24E's in U12 Pintara T & Ti plus Corsair Ghia. I have both KA24E & RB25DE but don't know which way I'm going yet. When your dead set doing the turbo conversion talk to me then. By then I will probably have a better idea on which one I plan to use. As for the manifold, I might have that sorted too, but it's going to be time. Cheers, D

Normally Aspirated was our plan. Non Turbo! I am going to have more than 300rwhp from a turbo L series, which is the point I was making. And at the end of the day, about 300rwhp is aqll you can use, can't get much more to the ground without masses of wheel spin all the time.

Phil, I looked at the link, but I don't know for sure how they categorise the Z32 diff, but what I can tell you is, the R200 back plates are interchangeable. From our long nose mechanical DR/HR30's, HR31's, Z32's, S13/14's etc. They are all interchangeable, the later ones just have allowance for the ABS. I have this back plate on my R200 long nose.

A few hundred dollars on a n/a set up????? My original project started with the idea of getting 300+ HP to the wheels in an n/a RB25 or 26/30DE. The number of research hours that went into this original project was staggering. Our end theoretical result, after many long hours of computer calculations went to about this: RB26 Head & Inlet system, RB30E block, RB26 crank, custom carello rods, forged pistons, 330/340 degree duration cams, a staggering 14.5:1 compression and to acheive the objective the engine had to rev to just under 15000 rpm. This project was debated on SDU for weeks on end and some of the brightest engine people I know were involved, just so that you know it wasn't just some hair brained scheme. The RB26 crank was the chosen option because the RB30 has non balance related harmonics problems at 7500 and continued over revving would result in a bent crank. And doing a rebuild after every run didn't impress me at all. After all the sums were done, the estimated dollars to acheive this goal was in excess of $50000.00 and it wouldn't idle under 3000rpm, so in 4th gear at idle it would be cryuising along at about 100kph. I'm sure our local law enforcement officers would have been impressed. The moral of the story is this, NO HP IS JUST A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS. A good ECU, motec, EMS, WOLF etc etc is going to cost about $1500.00 plus the cost of wiring @ $70 per hour. Port & polish a head, another $3-500.00 An adaptor plate for the 6 TB's ..... the skies the limit on that, maybe you should enquire about it at a machine shop. A GTR setup for $150, what was wrong with it, is what I would be asking myself? A new billet camshaft from Camtech was quoted to me at $350.00 Just how much money do you have to sink into this project? This is what you have to consider before anything can be researched and after you get the power increase you want, along comes bigger brakes, better suspension etc etc etc. A new sway bar from Whiteline is about $260.00, Koni's all round with King Springs and away goes a grand, so just in suspension upgrades you have spent over $1200.00 and the motor is yet to come. Cheers, D

Try to find yourself an N42 head (early 280ZX) and get the head worked over by someone GOOD! change the cam, put probably 280ZX injectors, decent set of extractors and free flowing exhaust should up the anti a bit, but your really only going to gain maybe 10Kw. If you want to keep the L24E and turbo it, you need to find an L20ET exhaust manifold, probably a T03 off an FJ20DET and a piggy back ECU to control the boost & fuel. This will get you about 140Kw on 10psi, considering when stock it has 93.4Kw. The late model L24E's were good to turbo, can't put big boost into them as the static compression is over 8.5:1, but you can get good gains from staying under 10psi and be safe and reliable. If you do it smart and use a plumback BOV know one will know what you have until it's probably to late. Cheers, D

And cost more than his car

Looks very interesting, but I'm going to have to compare the Cressida and the 280ZX turbo units before I will make a better assumption. Cheers, D

That would make an interesting read. If you could I would be interested. I have an L28ET AFM & ECU ex USA and the original RB25DE AFM and I'm led to believe that the RB25DE AFM can be re calibrated to flow the same as the L28ET and maybe the same as the Z32. We have a place in Sydney called A F I (Australian Fuel Injection) and they claim to be able to do the modification. IF this is possible, the RB25DE is by far the bigger of the three and is using more modern technology. Cheers, D

Cressida AFM??????? I have one I'm about to toss in the bin off my old 7MGE. You want that?? Cheers, D

The RB26 intake system fits on an RB26 head ONLY! similarly the GTiR quad throttle body doesn't fit on an inline (RWD) SR20. Nissan made them that way or a reason I suppose. You want to do this on the cheap, middle of the road or cost you a bomb??????? Only motor easy install into an MR30 is the L24E out of the MR30, everything else needs some amount of engineering and unless you have a workshop at your disposal, it's all going to cost lotsa dollars. Try doing some research like most of us have done before you before asking crazy questions. You tend to learn more that way. Cheers, D

NO!

Maybe you should read more posts as you will see I said the factory R200 mechanical LSD's are no better than a single spinner (open diff) because Nissan used them as a marketing tool more than a performance option. I have 2 x R200 LSD's, both long nose, both 2 way mechanical, one is a Cusco centre with pre loads of about 80lb and the other is the stock Nissan out of my PNV. As for Nissan making an R220, your full of yourself, the Z32 and S13/14 and R32/33 diffs are all R200, no such animal bigger in IRS made by Nissan. I have one, short nose viscous LSD 3.692:1 from a manual R32 and it's most suitable as a boat anchor. Cheers, D

Powder coating will do shit! HPC is the go and on an inlet manifold bright silver would be the go, but the exhaust should be black, as it's the best HPC for containing the heat. If your L24 is still stock, stay with the L24 or maybe L28 throttle body, but if it's a hotty, the KA24E off the U12 Pintara or RB25DE TB's will fit, both are 65mm but they aren't going to help you much unless the motor is a bit better than standard. Cheers, D

My Scanner has been infested by ants and I just got another one today. I'll set it up tomorrow and get it done. D

PARDON! Why the F@#K would you want a locker in an R30??? Drive it on the road and instant destruction of at least tyres and then probably axles etc. Why not get the real deal? As in an LSD. Cheers, D

Let's get the first bit out of the way. The viscous R200 is best suited for the role of a boat anchor, you can buy them cheap because they just don't break. I have a viscouse R200 3.692:1 you can have for FREE, comes out of S13, 14, R32, 33. Mechanical 1.5 & 2 ways are the BEST. Remember Nissan used LSD's as a marketing tool rather than a performance option in the 80's, because a mechanical R200 ex factory did no more than a single spinner, but it can be upgraded where the viscous, you get what you get and can't be upgraded. As for the 280ZX half shafts, I don't know but measuring them will tell you one way or the other. The 280ZX master cylinder is I think the same, but mine is NEW and the one you found in U PULL IT is far from that, but you do what you like. I can send it COD if you like. D

Sorry JC, didn't read the full thread. It's a strange question about diffs as Nissan haven't built an R210, or R220 etc etc etc so I guess most would understand the R200 is the ducks guts in IRS Nissan rear ends. Problem with R200 diffs is you need the half shafts as well and then it's usually big bucks, as the diff is much bigger and heavier than the R180 and the half shafts are shorter for that reason. Bottom line, R200 LSD's are the best of the best. Cheers, D

What have R200 Diffs got to do with DR30 brakes & the comparison to MR30?????????

Do it better knowing there is a few coldies at the end

Yeah! and 9 hours driving for me. See you there

Sorry, but Jim Richards won the ATCC in 1990 in a genuine GTS-R HR31 and I think that car is in the Terry Ashwood stables. So I guess that makes 2 and I'm sure there is more and a quick search in R31.com will find more, I'm sure. Something interesting about WA though. Some time back a female opened a thread stating she had a genuine R30 GTR, but when asked for proof and photographs, we got zero response and that particular thread died a painful death. Cheers, D

The supplement diagram is about 3 x A4 width long, so I would have to do it in about 4 bites and then they can be put together. That do? D.

Maybe I can get some scans done in A3 or 4 and ship them about if it helps. Cheers, D