Ghostrider

THE UPDATE I looked at the Infinity and for such a large car I was very disappointed in the space it had to offer. Both interior and boot space, left a lot to be desired. The only attraction was the goodies, but I can live without them. Anyway, after some serious discussion with a few different owners, both Infinity & Stagea I decided on a new track, it's not a Nissan, but by god it's probably the best touring car I have driven to date. 360Nm @ 3600, 196Kw @ 6000 n/a and V8 quad cam 32V. Yes I did a 1UZ FE conversion to my Cressida, pics attached. Thanks for the ideas. Cheers, D

Orange Matt, but they are the only Koni's available as far as I know, nothing else listed for them. Internally adjustable on assembly. If you answered your phone occassionally I could talk to you about them, as I tried a few minutes ago. Cheers, Dennis

Sorry, stuffed that up, typo? [email protected] or just send me a PM I wanted about AU$100 for the rears if thats ok with you, that's probably about US$75.00 or there abouts plus the freight. They are new, never turned a wheel, but were fitted to my original project car before I stumbled onto a set of coil overs. Cheers, D

[email protected] or just send me a PM. Cheers, D

I will, give me an adress and I'll post it to you. I have a set of NEW Orange adjustable Koni's, front & rear, (front inserts still in the box they came in) that are available, that's why I asked what you could expect to pay in US, so maybe we could work out a deal that gets you sorted out. Cheers, D

How much do you think you will pay for a set of rear Orange Koni's in the US? As far as I know, some of our spring makers use 240Z/260Z rear spring specs for 30mm lowered R30, but the shocks I cant help you with. If they're an eye bottom mount & same top, the top plates can probably interchanged, but I would be surprised if they were the same length. R30 rears are minimum length 20.59 inches (centre of eye to centre of mount plate when compressed), Stroke 6.89 inches Hope this helps. Cheers, D

I can give you the SKYLINE badge, but DOHC Turbo RS is a bit like rocking horse sh!t & hen's teeth. I have a new ex Japan DOHC RS badge, but I sold the only turbo version I had to a mate on the Gold Coast. Cheers, D

OK BOoStEr, Pack me up the strut brace, indicater lenses and vents, gear lever boot and tell me how much to P O Box N89 Campbelltown North NSW 2560 Cheers, Dennis

Shaun, I have a DR 4 door tailshaft in the garage, can you tell me the length of your MR tailshaft so I have something to compare. Cheers, D

Just merely contacting SSS wont do it, you would have to talk to Geoff or Joe and ask them if they can source the seat for you. As for electric or not, check under what you have now, cause some have electric driver's and non passenger. When you contact Just Jap, talk to Darren, he owns the place and they race a DR so he might want to help you if you approach it the right way. I can probably help out with the tyre strap and if you need a template to make a new parcel shelf mine is perfect. Speakers: I don't know which way to bounce just yet, I have a set of Pioneer TS-X7's that are rated @ 20WRMS and a set of mid mount Beltek, that also come from the same era. The front's I have decided to go with Pioneer TSC1002 4" splits. They are rated @ 50WRMS. The drivers will fit in the dash where they were meant to be and the split will go in the soft cover panel under the dash, as they really can't be seen they stay retro sort of. The rears are the biggest problem because of lack of allowable space. They are made to take a 4" speaker unless some sort of box is made to take bigger. I have a pair of Pioneer VACCS 12" subs going in the boot. My system is going to be a Beltek am/fm radio cassette head unit, (post mount) the pre outs are going to a Kenwood KGC 4042A Graphic Equalizer to control the 3 amps, Pioneer 2 x 50WRMS front, 2 x 20WRMS rear (fill sound) and a 2 x 85WRMS driving the subs & in the boot will be an FM Modulated Kenwood 10 stacker. At the end of the day it's all personal preferrence, but I'm trying to keep it in a strange way retro to the era it was built, even my Monza Racing rims are late 80's vintage. Cheers, D

Don't count on it, the hatch rear wiper assembly is lots different to the sedan & hardtop. As for seats, I think you should be sweet talking Daren at Just Jap and see what he can find you in Japan, or maybe Joe or Geoff at SSS. Your biggest concern about a driver's seat is getting one in good working order. If it's an electric seat that is. Cheers, D

You got me! I am under the impression all R30's with Auto transmissions had O/D & Lock Up Torque Converters. But in my manuals it shows the ECCS in the kick panel of the left side and I have a schematic for the S2 version but it's about 3 x A4's long. I could probably get it copied and post it to you if you like, or you could see a Bookworks agent and buy the supplement. SM4E-R30SGO Printed: November 1983 (010125) Cheers, D

Fabricate them yourself, as I have been trying for years to get importers to bring in the same thing. You might be more lucky if you buy the whole front air dam and keep the FRP section as a spare. I don't understand importers, they say these parts are NOT available, but they turn up in Jap auctions all the time. I have even directed them to the sites yet thay do SFA as usuall. There must be something wrong with the exchange rates between our classic dollars and later model dollars. Cheers, D

If you want THE L seies n/a cam, go source a 260Z manual cam. It's reputedly the Nismo Works cam and it should have a C stamped on the back. I'm using a stock L28ET cam in my new L20ET engine and I got it for AU$90.00 ex USA delivered to my door. Cheers, D

I have something you might want to borrow, if your going to show it, can't have but loan maybe, if I'm there as well. It's no longer available from Jenesis, but it's a white woolen rug with the R/S logo in the middle. I have been tempted to make one here with G/T logo for the PNV. Cheers, D

That's great! as I said earlier, that car is one of the best R30 coupes I have seen and one day I will find the pics I took of it at Oran Park. Other than my PNV it would be the best example I have seen on the road. Just hope it stays that way and you keep the flag flying for this now! slowly deminishing marque. It really is a pity that technology and the lust for more power has taken it's toll on these great cars. Prior to the R32 being sold in Oz in GTR form, it was considered through motoring circles that the R30 was the best Skyline ever to come to our shores and if not for a few technical hitches, the DR in PJR trim would have held it's place in our motor racing history as an ATCC Championship winning car, as does the HR31 GTS/R & BNR32 GTR. Cheers, D

George, The lights you refer to are common to nearly all Paul Newman Versions and black background, as in pic, common, to other HR30's, but the question at hand is the plugs. There is a good chance that, if you took your lights out and tried to fit them to a later model, the looms would be different. But saying that, if your car was built in the latter half of '83, as most PNV were, yours would probably be the same. Cheers, D

Just change the wiring, all will be good! Use what ever you need to fit to your car. Cheers, D

I'm not sure George, but I wouldn't have thought the dash would have to come out just to change pedal boxes. I recently changed steering columns and brake booster assembly and left the dash where it was. Also changed the instrument cluster to my Jenesis one and didn't experience the difficulties you described. I'll check that box and get back to you. Cheers, Dennis

It just has a clip on it, no more unscrewing like the old days, it has a nylon/plastic assembly on the end of the speedo cable. Once you have the cluster free it is relatively easy to access. Cheers, D

George, It's a while since I pulled a dash out, but from memory, there is 2 screws at each end near the door jam, the bonnet realease lever is also holding it in or it's bracket is. The demister vents have to come out on top near the screen and I think you will find 3 or 4 screws inside them. Heater controls etc etc also have to be disconnected from their relevant units, speedo cable has to be disconnected. Be ULTRA careful when pulling it out as there is a duct that feeds the top demister vents that tears/splits very easily and they're a bugger to find in good unbroken condition. Try these and get back to me if you still have trouble and I will look at a spare dash I have under the house. Cheers, D

Unless you want to stop from 200mph at Caltex Chase, I think you will be very well served with good pads in the DR calipers. EBC can supply Green & Red for fronts and Black & Green for the rear. My advice is Green & Black for normal road use and Red & Green for track & competition, but if not available Bendix Ultimates are a good alternative up front. To fit BNR32 GTR fronts, the hub has to be machined to allow the hat of the rotor to go over, you will be amazed at how close the hat height is compared to the standard DR rear mounted rotor and the big advantage is the solid 4 spot caliper, no flex as you get from a sliding single caliper. But as I said, unless your trying to stop from very high speeds, I don't think they're necessary. Cheers, D

Josh, Is your Ti, a hatch or sedan, as the hatch has a volt gauge and sedan has a boost/economy gauge next to the fuel gauge. If you need these gauges I have spares you can have. Cheers, D

That's the one Harry, but different to stagefumer, by turning the bushes 180 degrees in the shift lever, it actually shortens the throw inside the gearbox, whereas just shortening the length of the lever does nothing to the shift travel. Does exactly the same thing in our R30's that $150 plus does to S13 & R31/32 etc. Cheers, D

Get a set of METRINCH spanners, perfect for this problem, as they drive off the flats, not the corners. Cheers, D