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dr phil

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About dr phil

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    FJ20

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    Skyline ER34 GTT

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  1. You can read the ABS codes without a consult unit. These pages are from the R34 manual, for GTT (ie, ABS/TCS).
  2. Oh, and dont forget the idle screw, with TPS off, timing at 15 on ecu and light, you adjust the idle speed to 650rpm with the idle speed screw (engine warmed up). That and the TPS voltage are important. If you can’t achieve 650rpm at 15deg timing you have a problem that needs to be fixed.
  3. When you see 30 deg, what rpm is the engine running at? It sounds like it is in overrun timing not idle control. Also you should verify your TPS is adjusted correctly, it should have less than 0.5v on the signal wire with throttle closed.
  4. No if you are seeing 30 from the light you are doing something wrong. Please stop thinking the ecu has a base timing amount AND an amount that it adds. It does not. It only operates on total. If the ecu shows 15, you should see 15 on the light. If the ecu shows 3 YOU SHOULD SEE 3 ON THE LIGHT. It runs low total timing at idle for the reasons I explained. /thread
  5. Ok I don’t think it has a map for this, probably has an equation about how to alter timing based on actual idle speed vs target idle speed. But from a log of my car it seems to jump around from 3 deg to about 13 in normal conditions, at idle, with the throttle closed.
  6. Well, it doesn’t so much add 0, really it is commanding 15 when locked, which should match to your timing light reading. I would have to turn on my laptop and look at the idle map to give you the range it operates through at idle, i’d guess 3 to about 18 as the ecu sees fit to control the idle speed.
  7. There is a reason that the stock ecu runs low ignition timing when it is trying to actively control idle speed, eg 5-10 deg, and jumping around. It runs low idle timing, combined with an elevated IAC opening, because if it needs to quickly increase torque ie idle rpm, it is very fast for it to increase ignition timing, ie it can react fast to a situation where it needs more torque, eg saving from a stall. Andy Whittle has a youtube vid of this strategy. So yes this low ignition timing is what the stock neo ecu targets at idle, and yes it does jump around. Ignition timing changes make the engine react faster than opening IAC etc. To adjust timing, you disable this idle control strategy, one way is to unplug TPS. This locks the ecu to command 15 deg, and a fixed IAC level. Then you adjust CAS with a timing light to 15 deg, AND the idle speed screw to 650rpm. Then you plug TPS back in and live happily ever after.
  8. This is from the R34 manual, so you will need to be careful as the plug pinouts may be different to R33. But, it does show what resistance to expect across the various solenoids, and pressure sensors / switches. Also - it says you test the motor with 12v for less than 5s.
  9. If that description against code 37 is correct, it would mean that the ETS solenoid circuit is open, which could mean plug not on properly, wiring broken etc, as well as a possible problem with the solenoid itself. I could probably dig out diagnostic steps for that issue if you want, would be things like check resistance across solenoid when unplugged, try reseating the plug, then check for broken wiring between solenoid and control unit I’d suspect.
  10. When I was starting up my FJ20 Datto for the first time on an Autronic, I wired up a dodgy lead to the starter solenoid so I could hold the timing light and crank it over at the same time Sounds like you have an issue with dwell / triggering / polarity of the trigger on your coils, double check all that stuff, otherwise you might damage your coils. Sorry - I can’t remember if you mentioned your ECU and ignition setup.
  11. Oh also - yes the exhaust layout is identical to GTR. Has the big hump in the passenger floor.
  12. Yay a GT4 question! 4.3 with a gearbox like R33 gtr gives similar ratios to an R34 GTR for 1st to 3rd. Obv only 5 gears total not 6. I have 4.3 and a Stagea neo turbo in my GT4 and I find it ok. Bit noisy at highway speed though. Lots of things are poverty spec in GT4 vs the spec in GTT and GTR. Eg Front hubs are steel (gtr aluminium) Rear hubs are steel and eye type (gtt and gtr are aluminium and fork) Gt4 has no hicas Gt4 has no speed sensitive power steering (this comes along with hicas) Gt4 has smaller brake master than GTT, which is smaller than GTR. Brakes smaller, obviously. Gt4 has poverty 3x2 bolt driveshafts, GTT has 5 bolt, GTR has 6 bolt driveshafts and larger stub axles through the hubs GT4 has no rear swaybar Pretty sure rear diff is viscous, i think build plate says R200V. I think mine will spin the inside wheel on hard cornering (i have GTR swaybars) which is funny, because it then sends more torque to the front, and it kindof hops around. A real LSD would be ace. That’s just the stuff I remember.
  13. The non turbo RB25DE AFM is the same as RB25DET, both pink label, same part number
  14. Off topic but I wrote some software to connect to the ABS/ETS computer in my R34 GT4, via consult port. Are you sure you can’t put the ABS in diagnosis mode by connecting some pins? You need a workshop manual for details. You can do this on R34 for example, it flashes error codes on the brake warning light on the dash, similar to engine ecu diagnostic mode.
  15. R34 GT Fours do not come with HICAS. I’d guess it occurs when 4wd gets engaged. I have a sedan GT4, and my steering changes course pretty weirdly under similar circumstances, I have split radius rod bushes to fix, and I’m replacing the front lower ball joints, to see if that helps. I don’t get any kick or heavy steering in mine though.
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