Ghostrider

You want the ultimate sleeper? $2500 will buy you a front /half cut with a VH45DE. This is 4.5L 32V V8 & 206Kw and over 300Nm of torque. Go have fun & enjoy. I'm investigating putting a 1UZFE out of a Celsior in my MX83 Cressida. That's 4.0L 32V Quad Cam all alloy V8. 206Kw @ 5400 & 360Nm @ 4000 Cheers, D

I don't think so! Engine number is L24 which would indicate a carburetted engine making it a C210. If it's in fact an L24E it is most likely an C211, but with an MGC210 VIN I wouls imagine it is in no way an R30. Cheers, D

Is there any way I can test brake booster/master cylinder combo's off the car? Does anyone know if this is possible, can any shops, mechanical shops, brake specialists etc do a test to see if they are operating correctly. Cheers & thanks, D

You got pics you can post, as I might be interested IF it's an 1981. Cheers D

That the MR 4 Dr?

Done! Tomorrow. Let me know when they arrive. Cheers, D

Good luck! Try SSS Automotive at Girraween 02 9896 6111 They were selling a few on ebay, but don't know if they have any left. I'm keeping my spares, Sorry! it's cheap insurance. Cheers, D

R180 & R200 Long Nose Mechanical LSD's. The R180 you might get from the front 720 4WD Ute, the R200 is the best but is also the hardest to get. You need the half shafts as well with the R200 as it's bigger in dia, hence the shafts are shorter AND thicker. Good luck on finding an R200 to suit. The R200 from S13/R32 does not fit or suit. Cheers, D

George, I have a 4 door here in Oz. The parts list shows 2 different part numbers, but they look the same except for the piece that bolts to the window. Maybe we/you can mix & match to get a good complete part. Can you supply pics & dimensions so I can compare before being found wanting. Cheers, D

L28ET ECU will set you back about US$50.00 ... check Ebay.com L28ET AFM about the same from same place Injectors, try 7MGE from n/a 3000 Supra & Cressida. Good size and cheaper Oil Pumps .... there are 3 Turbo pumps. Casting numbers 3, 3.3 & 4. I can do you a type 3 @ best price in town. Call me when your getting close to needing it. Inlet manifold..... if you can't find L20ET, just go for a stock L28E, on an L24 the advantages can't justify the cost of importing one. Inlet & Exhaust Manifolds......... Check parts importers and wreckers for L20ET as they're the same T03 from VLT........ good idea, same as L28ET anyway BOV......... if your going to vent it to atmosphere like most everyone else, I have a small type 1 you can have for shit 5 Speed will set you back between $150/350.00 + pedal box + clutch, m/cyl etc etc Approx power from an L24ET would be probably 150/160Kw or maybe a little more. My new L20ET engine will be giving me about 240Kw @ wheels, but it's a new engine. And you should have about 8.5:1 in your L24E & N47 head combination, which is great for turbo, so long as you stay under a bar of boost. With keeping below 15psi you should get some reliability as well, so why worry about decompression plates. The higher comp will give better low end torque as well and much better off boost driveability. And don't worry about the questions. Cheers, D

Ok, but let's just remember I'm no tuner or auto elec and don't know all that was done, but we see if this can help; 1. The Adaptor: As the outlet flange on an L24E is an interesting 3 bolt triangulated affair encompassing twin outlets and a T03 Turbine flange is a rectangular 4 bolt arrangement, there is absolutely no way the 2 will mate together without some modification and this is therefore "the adaptor". The angles the exhaust comes down at is also totally unsuitable for turbine positioning. 2. ECU vs Loom: I would think at a guess there would be a lot that can be used from the existing L24E loom for a turbo application. After all, there is no specific wiring going to the turbine itself, just all the controllers around it. In my mates car, there was no extra ECU, no piggy backs, just what appearred to be a stock L24E ECU. His set up included a hobbs switch, which has something to do with boost, so I'm guessing it would have worked at some point. The engineers certificate indicated it was converted by Gary Blogg's Motors in Sydney in 2000/1. When I was contemplating an RB conversion, an auto elec said to me, that they often used the original loom and just added to it as necessary. 3. The GO: As for the running like sh!t, a lot of things could have contributed to this and what he/we did was just lucky hitting. I gave him an L20ET ECU that I had spare, thanks to a contributer on this forum. I got him FOC a set of L28E injectors, and as we figured they had to be bigger than the stock L24E injectors, that wouldn't hurt, so they were put in as well. As for mix & match, what has to be remembered is that L28ET's never came to Oz, they were an o/seas & Jap thing only, primarily USA. If your serious about doing this conversion, there are a couple of parts that are very important and they are the manifolds. An L28E inlet manifold will suffice, but the L20/28ET exhaust manifold is a must, unless of course you plan on getting a custom one made to order. The other is a Turbo Oil pump, as it has a higher flow rate than that of a n/a oil pump and the very best is from an AUTO L28ET. It can be a rather rewarding conversion, without the expense of an RB conversion. I am mixing all sorts of bits in my new L20 engine build. RX7 injectors, Z31 turbine, P90 280ZXT head & cam, Jap spec L28ET inlet manifold & dual stage throttle body, L28ET AFM & ECU (ex USA) Remember all L series parts are interchangeable with all similar configuration engines, doesn't matter if it's an L20A or L28, everything bolts on and are all compatible. The L series 6 cylinder engines are all identical dimensionally outside. Cheers, D

Good luck with NEW! But the rear bumper your looking for is the same as Aussie delivered 84/5 sedans & hatches Failing this, all I can help with is part numbers & with these you might find a nice understanding person in Nissan that might try and get them for you from Japan. Cheers, D

A mate bought a car that had been done. They used a funny sort of adaptor between the original n/a manifold and turbo. It ran like a dog, but all we did was change the ECU to an L20ET, left the AFM it had, put in L28E injectors & changed the turbine to one off an FJ20DET and it went like stink to about 160k, as that's all we tried it to. It kept stock rexes honest, above 40 or 50kph they couldn't get away from him, which pissed them no end. A stock looking 20 year old skyline, that came out as an EFI (NO TURBO) sitting on their nice new rex, they just couldn't understand it. If it was done with some seriousness I think it would be fairly quick.

I have an L24E gasket I probably wont need if interested.

Have you got the L28ET bits or L20ET bits?

Sorry guys, Your all correct in what you say, I've been snapping far to early lately and not just on this thread. I think I have far too much going on in my head at the moment for me to responsibly say anything, so I best take some advice and go away for a while, till things settle down a bit. There are some that know I'm not as young as most & probably the 2nd oldest on this forum and as such have elderly parents and one of them might not get out of hospital. Thanks for not tearing strips off as you could, but I'm gunna go away for a while till my head gets back to something more normal.

gazza, your relying on information gathered from research of the internet. Why do you think the question was posed in the first place. "An engine developed from the Bradford's originators" Don't know where this has specified anything specific to Jowett Cars Ltd. I can tell you this for sure, the originators are still selling cars new! today.

I will do my best to find him for you. I think they're a great device and for a lousy $20 they are nearly impossible to defeat. Cheers, D

For the BEST BEER in town, can only be one place "the Brewery" that's Five Islands Brewery next to WIN Stadium at Wollongong Beach. They have THE best Belgium style beer @ 7.5% and it's yummy, but take a driver, it's easy to get pissed there and it's a long way home. Only 2 sizes available, half & pints, so enjoy yourself. Maybe we should organise a cruise there. lol

This is the ONLY type that is ADR compliant, as far as I'm aware.

I'm in Sydney and for my HR30 I recently got them made. Pirtek at Milperra made them, no special deals, just had all 6 of them made at once for $370.00. Remember, when doing this changeover there is more than just what goes to the calipers. There is another 2 that go to the trailing arms from the body, due to the IRS and I figure the changeover would be pointless unless doing them all.

Yeah! I usually use 5W~40 Havoline across our winter for the same reasons. And availability. Availability is a BIG issue for me. They say all oils & particularly synthetic oils are compatible with mineral based oil, BUT they are not CONSISTENTLY compatible in my opinion. Back in 1988 I took my family to EXPO in Brisbane, my car at the time was an auto Triumph 2500TC and I had all the lubricants changed to synthetic before we left. Engine Mobil 1 20W~50, Auto Amsoil auto fluid, Diff Mobil Syntech 80W~90, and Amsoil Synthetic wheel bearing grease in the bearings. I averaged nearly 40 m.p.g. (about 8L/100) in a 2.5L 6 cyl twin carburetted auto, for the trip up from Sydney and back to Nambucca, that's over 1000 miles (1600k) At Nambucca I had to top up the oil with a litre and the BEST oil I could find was Shell Ultra 20W~50 mineral based (non synthetic) and the trip from Nambucca back to Sydney, the arse fell out of the economy to about 30 m.p.g. and the ONLY change was the mixing of the 2 oils. But correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't seen 0W~30 Mobil 1 on the shelf for some time, is there a chance it has been replaced with 10W~30 as it's in the same price bracket.

Does nobody look at titles of threads anymore, or has it got to asking any question in any thread and it will be near enough. "Changing Brake & Clutch Fluids, Can someone provide me with some DIY instructions" was the title last time I looked. What's it got to do with anything else? Start another thread if it's something other than that, is what I get told often enough.

I'm sorry! but I, like probably everyone else that's read this thread, has assumed some repairs have been done and the system now needs bleeding. Common sense tells you that once any hydraulic line is broken, or comes loose, there is automatically some % of air that gets into the system. Replace any part, wether a simple brake line, or something more complex such as calipers or master cylinder, tell me how zero air enters into the system. The guy asked for tips on bleeding, simple as that ...................... nothing about removal or stopping air getting in, just how to get the air out. I thought it was obvious, as you say in your avitar!

Are you serious or blonde? Maybe you should have a look at your avatar and the comment you put under it.