Ghostrider

What oil filter and fuel filter should i use? Aus spec r30 ones? Cheers! This is an interesting question, as my L20ET has a Ryco Z9 on it now, the L28 I recently acquired has an Z170, yet in past days L24E's had Z145A, so I guess you can use them all, as all L series 6 cylinder blocks are the same dimensionally. Cheers, D

Do you know the specs of the Cobra Springs? If the Cobra brand is anything like the off the shelf Pedder's, Lovell's, Jumboz, King's, K-Mac and many more, lowered springs, they would be about 30mm lowered and probably about 150lb/in These spring makers work on an increase of about 30% over standard and have just about zero relevance to good handling. Nissan and all other car manufacturers build cars to carry passengers and luggage in the boot, their spring rates are always heavier at the back than the front for this (luggage) reason and therefore are the opposite requirement to good handling, as a RWD car should have the front harder/stiffer than the rear and FWD the opposite way round. I have a set of custom 40mm lowered 200lb/in Jumboz made rear springs I took out of my original MR30 Hatch project car, IF your interested. But they would have to be matched with a set of fronts around 260lb/in. Cheers, D

Dam lowerd springs and shocks dont work to well these days It has been well documented on these pages that lowering R30's isn't easy, but the rear can be simplified by using R31 shocks, as they are about 20mm shorter than stock R30, hence the loss of piston travel isn't as dramatic. I notice in your specs you are considering SOLID mounting the rear cross member. I would think long & hard about what you want your car for, as I have ridden in a solid mounted rear R30 and it's not pleasant. All the time you have every little vibration and related noises coming through the body. Try sourcing the polyurethane that I had made, surely there must be somewhere in NZ. If not drop me a line and I'll help you get them from Noltec. Cheers, D

A, How does 24mm grab you??? And it's bent the same as Jenesis does their's, straight across the back without the zig zag. All I see the zig zag is for is to make handbrake cable adjustment easier. As you can see in the pics, my polyurethane bushes do just about the same as your sickaflex, but with lots more finess. lol Working on the theory of the front being about a third heavier than the rear, I have 300lb/in front springs & 220lb/in rear. As I said before, 24mm rear sway bar and a 27mm front. In my project I have gone wityh the advice of the guru rally guys and have a mix of both polyurethane and rubber. All the compression points are polyurethane and pivot points are all rubber. Reason, polyurethane greased bushes elongate under load and therefore dirt & grut gets in and makes the inner hole, far bigger than intended as original. IF you are in a position to change all the pivoting bushes on a regular basis, go use polyurethane, but if your like most of us and would rather drive the cars as opposed to work on it constantly, stay with rubber in these areas. For Stagefumer, I have included a couple of pics showing my gestimated rear camber. When I get it all done I will know for sure when it goes on the aligner, but it looks ok to me. Cheers, D

What's with DRIVING RANGES & AQUA GOLF, the man asked for interest for a day on a course and maybe a few jugs at the 19th, he didn't ask for suggestions. Anyway, for those more interested in just smashing balls off a driving range, PLEASE ADVISE just how many golf courses are made out of ASTRO turf and or alloy you to carry your own, pre selected piece of astro turf/immitation grass around the course to play off. Driving ranges are a waste of time except for getting a swing right. Give the man a go, he wants to have a GAME of golf, and is asking fort anyone interested in going with him. I get sh!t canned enough for shooting my mouth off on these pages, but I think you should be sticking to the topic a little more closely. Just my humble opinion. D

I'll do some up when I get the front down after Easter, but IMHO I think a lot of my camber issues have been beaten by the use of POLYURETHANE in the rear cross member mounts and moustache bar mount. I had them custom made by Noltec here in Thornley NSW Australia for about $450.00. That covered Crossmember bushes, moustache bar bushes, 2 x sets of o/size rear sway bar mount bushes to fit in the stock mounts. A/mkt rear sway bars are an issue as best I see them, because the rear cross member on an R30 is tapered to the outside. The sway bar sits flat, horizontal as it were and any a/mkt universal mount is trying to twist the bar, not allow it to mount as designed. Hence my having them custom made. The experiment went with a fairly big dia, but I'm going to get some smaller dia's made up for handling tweaks, once it's rolling and registered again. Cheers, D

$5-600 Wow! I think I could make 'em custom for that. But for those dollars ex Japan is quite reasonable

If I had pups of those flairs I could get 17 x 9's on all round.

Would they be necessary??????????? I have just re sprung my coil overs and the rear is down at least 50mm from standard, yet to the eye, I might have only 1.5 degrees negative camber ABSOLUTE MAX, so I can't see any merit. Like the R30 rear trailing arms don't go like 1600's & 180B's when they get lowered. Cheers, D

I haven't hit a ball for over 5 years, but I'll be up for it. My social golf club used to have a trip away once a year for the POrRT CUP. Maybe you might like to know the rules. But for an exciting social game 2 ball Ambrose makes for some fun. Cheers, D

What crossmember did you use? Bluebird or R31?

Hugh, How much you pay for your Stagea and what's your honest opinion? D

IF it was more than a commuter work car I would tell you how to get a very useful volt meter into the cluster instead of a useless vacuum/economy/boost gauge. D

This conversion interests me too! Any info would be nice. I have been looking at using the R31 cross member, as it carries the rack mounts with it. Mounting points are different, but the chassis rails are the same spacings, or near enough. I'm looking at the conversion when I swap motors. Then I'm gunna have a few spare, no longer needed power steering boxes up for grabs. Cheers, D

UP FOR GRABS 1 x pair of standard DR30 front disc rotors. They measure standard at 274 x 22 These measure 20.9mm They will take ONE light machining, so would make for a good spare set. Anyone interested, they're here, come & get 'em Rotors only, NO HUBS.

Sorry for delay, but only found the AFM last night after moving around some rubble in the garage, so that I could work on mine again. The AFM is here, it's free! If you want it I'll calculate some postage and let you know. Cheers, Dennis

Might be the wrong place, but if anyone is interested, I have 2 x DR30 standard radiators and 3 x Thermo fan assemblies that are up for grabs if they are of any use to anyone. Cheers.

George, There is a couple of books, or at least one book you should get your hands on. How to rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine It gives all the specs for everything about L series 4's & 6's. IF you were in Oz I would suggest you start at TRW, or DUFOR for both valves & springs, but as your in NZ, I don't know. You might just have to check around, but the inlet valves std are 38mm head dia & 110.7mm long. Exhaust is 33mm head dia & 110.7mm long. Springs, I don't have specs for. Not at hand now, will look for my L20A manual later in the morning. IF the original stuff isn't STUFFED, why don't you re use it as I thought you were building an L28 motor for your PNV. Cheers

Sorry to see it gone Jason, but not all R30 brakes are small. This might not be the right time or place but I have 2 x DR30 standard radiators & 3 x thermo fan assemblies to suit, if they are any good to you or anyone else for that matter. Great price ....... freight costs only. Cheers.

Funky, Is this still happening? Cheers.

Here is a test for your program. These are from my coilovers thank you. Please sir. Coil ID: 62.25mm Wire Dia: 11.00mm # of Coils: 7.75 AND Coil ID: 62.00mm Wire Dia: 10.10mm # of Coils: 7.75 Cheers, Dennis

In just 80k it's hardly likely. I just checked the specs on Formula Ferodo and as they say consistent pedal FEEL from cold to hot, they also say OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE when brakes are warm. The Bendix Advance are just stockies, so you may be finding all the effective braking is being done by the rears. I find it hard to believe you have either bedded the pads in or got them efficiently warm in the short didtance you have travelled unless on just one trip. Maybe a different pad selection would be a better alternative, for day to day driving and keep your Formula Ferodo for the tough stuff. That being said, I really have ZERO time for anything Ferodo, I find their after sales back up and warranty is not worth the paper it's written on. They will take any excuse they can to get out of any problem.

As for damper adjustment. Am I to understand it starts from left to right. I have JIC Coilovers and they have the adjustment in the top, driven by an allen key. So soft is full left and it increases as it's turned clockwise, or is it a hit and miss deal?

Just something I'm renown for ..... stupid questions. What's the who har about Castrol SRF? I know it's as expensive as hell, but is it what it says? Does anyone know for sure?

For Sale, is one copy HKS 40mm External Wastegate with 14lb spring. The legit genuine HKS unit only had a 10lb spring fitted, given that they will work on a 50% increase of spring pressure, the HKS maxed out at 15lb, yet these imported copies don't max out till ove 20lb of boost. This is IDENTICAL in every way except that it doesn't have HKS in the top casting. It has never been used, is in it's original packaging and lubricated plastic bags. It's in Sydney and it's yours for $150.00. It was purchased about a year ago on ebay for $175.00 plus postage.