Ghostrider

Thanks guys, but I recently purchased a pair of Pioneer TSC1002 splits from Strathfield for $99.00. We have a store in Campbelltown named Car Audio Excellence and the manager is BRAD. (next to Shell in Queen St) I approached him and asked for a price on a set (pair) of Pioneer TSC1002's about 3 weeks ago, and he quoted me $105.00, but he suggested I wait for their 4 HOUR SALE on Friday 3rd December when everything will be up to 70% OFF. So! stupid me I waited and on the 3rd they were 70% OFF, off full RRP $199.00 back to $129.00, but when I challenged the price he told me some bullsh!t story about OLD PRICES and he COULD NOT supply at cheaper than the sale price of $129.00. The next day I found, to my surprise Strathfield was having a 4 day sale, Sat, Sun, Mon & Tuesday and on the Sat 4th December I purchased my pair @ $99.00. I took the print out I took off the net to this BRAD guy from Car Audio Excellence, showing the price @ $99.00 and he said to me "NO PROBS, WHEN DO YOU WANT THEM" yet less than 24 hours before he couldn't supply them under $129.00. BUYERS BEWARE ......... THIS GUY IS A CROOK AND SHOULD BE AVOIDEED AT ALL COSTS. Cheers

$250.00

Although I like Ghostriders suggestions. Make a great gift for Grandma this Christmas. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just for the record, I tried to get 24NIK8 and it went all the way to production before someone picked up on what it said, they took my money, all $380 at the time but refunded it later. I was on a guaranteed $10000.00 if I was able to secure it, so don't knock the evil mind, cause it can make lots of money if lucky enough. I have another that I'm contemplating but not tellin any one, cause I'm promised money for it if I get it thru the RTA, but promises aren't the same as dollars.

If your in NSW you can go to the RTA web site and design your own www.rta.nsw.gov.au I think, and depending on how much you have to waste you can damn near have anything. I have personalised plates on my drive car, and bought them for my daughter but back in the days when it was a $158.00 ONE OFF COST, but now it's $50 application fee and another $90 every year on top with the rego and they not gettin that from me. I understand personalised plate applications in NSW have dropped off by nearly 75%, but it wont change, as the revenue they will get for the other 25% will be enough.

You gotta find an ENTHUSIAST that wants it for it's nostalgic rarety value. I was offered $10,000 for mine about 12 months ago, but told him to go away, he didn't have enough money, but your going to get your best price when it's not for sale. When it's FOR SALE people wont pay what it's worth because of you needing to get rid of it, but remember when you do to let me know where it goes so I can upgrade my register. Cheers, Dennis

What about 24NIK8 or 24NIC8 (to fornicate) or FEL810 (felatio) if the RTA don't think they're obscene

I had a guy in Brisbane wanted all sorts of R30 bits, from guards to dif and nearly all in between and for about 3 months the saga went on, sorry this and sorry that reason, be able to haver the money soon, every excuse you can think of and at the end just want 2 items, so he was told to talke a walk, a very long walk off a very short pier. Then another wanted DR30 hotplate tail lights, for weeks he was going to put the money in my account, so bugger this I said, put them on ebay and they lasted 25 minutes. They can be a pain in the ass, you try to help them and they just don't care anymore.

We had a thread on here warning of sellers that should be avoided. Can we include buyers on a similar thread?????????

Does SA have the same privacy laws as we do in NSW where you cant trace the car through the rego. Does it still reside in SA and do you see it around, as it would be nice to have all it's facts on my register. Dennis

Adam, Where is the car today? Can you get him to or can you put all his information Year Model, Build Date, Chassis Number, Model designation, Colour codes, Trim code, Engine number, rego number and where it is today with a contact number if possible, as this is #4 in OZ that I can find knowledge on. Dennis

Thanks Jono, I know of this one, it's all over white and lives in Canberra these days and owned by a guy named Zeb. We have conversed on a number of occassions. There is a 4Dr in Qld and George Bryant's in NZ plus mine of coarse. Last time I did the rounds I think we found existence of 5 maybe, but wasn't very many. Thanks.

Don't worry about it George, A & I were having a tiff???

This is my Paul Newman Version, as it was purchased. I have been told it's unique in Australia as it's a signature series. 2 tone paint with the signature on the lower front wheel arch. From all the pics of the other cars in Australia I am yet to see one the same as this. TO ALL THE SPY'S Have you seen another??????? and if so where?

Would someone please explain to me, how requesting cam specs of the L20ET engine, got so out of hand, that I am being told the pro's & cons of the L series engine and why it's a piece of crap. Now A, would you like to debate the DOHC engine, because from my lack of knowledge and rather short research, I would like to say just this ..... when telling someone how sh!t their respective choice of engine is, may I point out that the RB has it's short comings as well and if I was embarking on a project and using as a base, just any common old DR or HR30 Skyline, my choice of DOHC engine would be the 1JZ or 2JZGTE, as I think it's proving to humble the RB in just so many ways. You speak of Stewart Wilkins, well Stewart & I speak often and he also is making some parts for me, but as you like to point out, your RB26/31 R32 will do so many good things, last time I was at Stewarts there was a blue 240Z getting the 2JZGTE treatment and I would suspect it would see off your R32 with consumate ease. Sorry, but as you don't have the answers to what I asked, maybe we should get back on topic, but as you so kindly want to point out, that synthetic oils are not necessarily the best. Let me tell you this ....... In the early 80's in Burt Jones's at Parramatta, Kevin Bartlett was preparing his Camaro for bathurst and we run a dyno test on 4 oils. Let me first say that by wearing a Castrol sticker on the side of the car earnt them the use of Castrol Racing R Synthetic absolutely free. In the 350 engine Kev was running Coarse Plus 50, which still is one of Castrol's top mineral based oils. The engine/car was dynoed and both oil temp & horsepower were measured, then the sump was drained and replenished with Castrol R, then Amsoil & finally Mobil 1 and the brief results were a steady increase in HP and a slight decrease in oil temp through all tests and found Mobil 1 the best performer at the time, and guess what, Kev went to Bathurst that year with a castrol sticker on the car and lots of mobil 1 in the engine. That was enough for me and also for it's availability I will be using Mobil 1 in my L seies. I have Mobiltemp 220 in the bearings and Mobil Synthetic 80W90 in the LSD & gearbox. You appear to have missed the point of topic entirely, I am not suggesting the L series is any better or worse than the RB, but in my case, I have a very rare vehicle in Australia and not a just so common as dirt R32 or nearly as DR or HR30 and I thought it best to keep the car looking as stock, or appearing to be as stock as it was made, wityh just a few refinements to help it handle, stop and generally perform a bit better. The cam being discussed has an advertised duration of 258/260 degrees, valve lift of .314 inches, cam lift of .472 inches, lobe separation of 112 degrees and an operating rev range of 2500 - 6500. AND not all 300+ degree cams are full race, as I had a Hillman Hunter once and inside the 1725 + 0.030 engine was a 54/86 cam, that's 320 degrees and it idled as smooth as silk, not the slightest lope or roughness at idle and the whole package produced an awesome 165bhp at the flywheel. IF you can find them, you will find Andrew Cowan's Hunter GT London to Sydney winner had very similar specs. Anyway, how is my 300rwhp any less efficient than yours, it's still 300HP no matter how you look at it and sure, if it was a full on racer and not a PNV I would have gone ahead with the RB conversion I had in progress, but it's not, it's a signature series PNV, which is rare in itself and from what I can find out, the only one in OZ like it. Cheers, D

You got me, I got to think about this, but A, tell me what all this has to do with the L20ET Cam Specs. As for mineral based oil, I wouldn't use it again after the tests I did on Kev Bartletts Channel 9 Camaro some years back. Your so far off the mark it isn't funny, I'm not using an L series for any other reason that the PNV has one and it has to be worth more in the long term than hangin an RB in the front. As it's probably the only one in NSW other than Zebs in ACT, it's going to stay looking original to the naked eye. I simply started the post to see if I could have used the L20ET Cam in the bigger capacity motor, not debate the pros & cons of a L series engine. More later ..............

Long way in front of you A. But your "High lift , short duration and little overlap" is fine for non turbo applications. 256/258 degrees is an excellent duration for a quick street car, but lobe separation must be in excess of 110 dgrees and maybe as far as 115 for turbo applications. Lift will not be higher than 0.500 inches & oversize lash pads are already in the motor. Brand new billet cams are available through Cam Tech - Chipping Norton @ $330.00 or Tighe Cams in Brisbane @ $320.00 + freight. As for oil, 100% synthetic is the only way to fly. Cheers, Dennis

You need a degree wheel and I chose to send my cam to Cam Tech in Chipping Norton as they have a cam doctor machine that reads the figures. You can get a reasonably accurate guesstimate of the duration & lift with a dial vernier, but it is not precise. I have the specs for all Zed cams from 240 to 280ET including the Nismo cam that was fitted to the 260Z. As has already been stated, the stock cam for the L20ET is very similar to the L28E, but the failing of that statement is there is a number of L28E engine derivatives and cams.

George L24E is old hat. I probably have more R30 L24E wiring diagrams than you have, including the supplement that came out for the series 2 & 3 of 84/85. Most of the questions raised are about L20ET wiring and I am buildsing an 2949cc version of the L series engine, as has been fairly well documented in these pages, hence why I invested in the 280ZX Turbo manual, as I am only guessing, but think the wiring would almost be identical to that of the L20ET in our HR30 Skylines. And I also have the L20ET enginge that was in my PNV and gross amounts of pics before it came out.

I know this is a bit old, but I just bought an 1981 280ZX Turbo manual on ebay USA to get a lot of this info we don't have on the L20ET engine compartment, so when it arrives I can post any info you might want from it. Blind Elk, I would be interested in your cross reference sheet if you could send it to me. Just need to be notified so I can connect my fax machine to a telephone line. Cheers All.

I have all the Tighe specs and the 312 would have been fine except the one I had in the motor I bought was rats on #2 the lobes were different grind to rest of cam and lobe separation was to narrow at 108 dgrees. They claim torque figures between 2400 - 5500 which would be an excellent street cam and hillclimbs, as on the gearing I have will mean it comes onto cam at about 75kph in 4th gear.

THanks Stagefumer, but am looking for a good cam to put into my L28ET motor, as the Tighe 312 is stuffed. Will have to buy something soon, but was considering fitting my stock L20ET cam, but will now do a rethink. As I have said I have all the Zed Cam Specs including the L26 Nismo Cam.

Have a look to find what's bent, or out of alignment.

Matt, Before you go jumping in buying the Patrol master cylinder, may I suggest you take a sample of the old 7/8 master cylinder to your friendly old brake parts place and he look up his picture referrence, because a TOKIKO brand 1" master cylinder is available in this country, exactly the same configuration as your standard 7/8 version. The parts list only shows the 7/8 number, but as I said, take your old to the parts house and theyt will have a picture and cross referrence for the 1" version. I have asked one of my local brake specialists to help us out with a part number for you, but as yet have not got an answer. As for rear callipers, you just gunna have to source them, as they are becomming a bit like "Rocking Horse Sh!t" extremely difficult to find, but .............. in my usual style I have been able to locate a complete rear end minus the diff & drive shafts (half shafts) that's rear cross member, trailing arms, hubs and brakes and am waiting for a price. If your interested maybe you might want to PM me for this information. Cheers, Dennis

I have been considering Pioneer TSC 1002's. Their specs stack up fairly well, does anyone have any experience with them?

To the almighty car audio guru's amongst us. My HR30 Paul Newman Version has ONLY space for 4 inch speakers in the dash and I'm not going to start hacking into door trims that can't be replaced. What I need to know is WHAT ARE THE BEST 4 inch Speakers that anyone has experienced? Will venture into splits, but am limited to 4 inch size. I am not concerned with the lack of bass as I have a 12 inch Pioneer sub going into the rear. Thanks.