Ghostrider

MR/HR/DR30 along with S13 rears disk pads all same, but MR30 sedans would be a problem as they have DRUM rears. I finish early tomorrow but I think Adrian is correct as I think it's just the legs, but I will measure mine tomorrow afternoon, as I have both HR & DR rear calipers. Adam, check the cost of Alternators Vs postage, cause Bluebird (Bosch) are same mounts & I might just have a few laying around. Cheers

faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa out $220.00 for one arm. Shit they're expensive, we chuck stock MR ones out here in Sydney And my last purchase of a complete rear end minus diff was only about $400.00 and we got brakes as well.

Can anyone help? Do you own a degree wheel in Sydney? I have an L series P90 head fitted with a TIGHE 312 CAM, Specs 60 18 22 58 258 degrees duration .472 gross valve lift Problem is they can't for sure tell me the Lobe Centre separation 108 or 110 degrees. Has anyone got or got access to a cam degree wheel that could help me establish the facts. Thanks

On a technical issue ......... DOWN FORCE ......... For correct handling and stability the down force on the front must be equal to that on the rear. So! if you have some type of spoiler/air dam arrangement on the front, you must have the equal on the back. Bugger the looks, make it work first.

Distortion is NIL and decide for yourself how it looks. Cheers

Josh, I got heaps of time for the drift guys, I will be at the nationals at the end of the month at Oran Park, but as a competitor, I can't see the value of destroying tyres like they do. I also think there is more skill involved doing laps or hill climbs & preparing a car than simply pulling on the handbrake to get sideways and burning tyres staying that way. As for Old School, I would have to be the OLDEST, I don't think there would be too many putting their hand up admitting they're older than me. Each to their own I say, but you won't find my PNV drifting, unless I have gone into a corner a bit hot. My aspirations lie in Targa or the East Coast Rally one day. Cheers, Dennis

As a non R31 admirer, I would suggest a series 3 cause they look the best, that would be 91, 92 model I think. The single headlight version with the droopy nose bonnet. Import optical headlights are available for this model and they work and look heaps better than the stock ones. In Australia we only had sedans & wagons locally made and delivered, but there have been a couple of series 1 GTS cars on offer lately for that sort of money. You may be lucky to find an import coupe for that much, but it would be rare or need lots of work, the odd Passage GT crops up as well, but the trick is don't be impatient, take your time because there are some real nice R31's out there and with our fuel prices ever heading skywards, they can only get cheaper as everyone heads for smaller, more economical 4 cylinder cars. You should be aiming for the highest quality you can for your money and luxury was a Ti, and sporty was the Silhouette or GTS options As for questions to ask, I don't think there is much to ask other than the basics today, as you get what you pay for in most cases. Stay away from the yards unless you are desperate, as any car over 10 years old or with over 160K does not carry warranty, so why line the pocket of a car yard when you can get it straight from an owner or auction at a similar price the yard is paying. That's my thought anyway.

Just copy and fill in the table; Skyline model = HR30 Wheel diameter = 16 Wheel width = Front 7 & Rear 8 Wheel offset = +38 Tyre size = Front 205/55 & Rear 225/50 Modifications to fit = NIL Track day wheels 8's all round with 245/45 x 16 Mods required 20mm spacer on front as wheel has been widened in by 1 inch

Hey Yas, I can supply you with this derivative of the same lights. Maybe better, maybe not, but BLACK background instead of silver/grey Let me know what you think. Cheers

Prank, The old site used to show which MODERATORS were online at any one time, but this one doesn't. Is there a particular reason for this now not being a feature, as the option of contacting a moderator was rather helpful I thought without having to remember them all. Cheers, Dennis

Adam, The basic arm is IDENTICAL, it mounts to the same place, they are both interchangeable, BUT as Ben says, the rear brakes on the MR are different, they are only 254 instead of 290, the caliper mounts may be different as well. The DR rear arms are unique as the HR's are same as MR & I just chucked a pair out yesterday. The original arms off my PNV, gone to the recyclers. I have a pair of stock HR calipers here as they are very similar to DR. I will check tomorrow if the calipers can be mounted to the DR rear end etc and advise further.

I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I CAN'T ANSWER YOUR DISTORTION QUESTION UNTIL TUESDAY, but as for guides to channel air, please explain why we/I can't rely on simple physics to do the job. This is my thoughts on the subject: As the air moves over the bonnet and over the louvres, a low pressure area is created directly behind the louvre and therefore faster moving cold/outside air sucks all hot air out through this low pressure trough. A guesstimate on the distortion issue would be nil, as all the work is done without chabging the bracing underneath. I am interested that you have been thinking this way, as we (the forum) had a similar discussion some time back about a drift style carbon fibre bonnet being made. This idea of mine was howled down by certain bodies but heaped praise on the drift style. My initial enquiries found the difference in weight between the steel and carbon fibre was about 5kg, yet would cost in excess of $2000.00. Probably easier to go on a diet for a lousy 5 kilo.

And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine. I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet.

I have a mate in Adelaide that has done the VT conversion and in as much that the car has a marked change in braking characteristic I don't think they would be better than 4 pot BNR32's, ONLY cheaper as he has stock MR30 rear disc set up. The DR rear although using the same size pad, it is 290 diameter as opposed to 254. The leaverage is a huge improvement. I'm going to do the BNR32 GTR front upgrade a bit later down the track. My first priority is to get it registered with the coil overs and DR set up front & rear. Along with bigger sway bars that will have to be fine tuned. I have a complete DR Iron Mask body kit including the optional rear wing. I get my bonnet back next tuesday and I am a bit apprehensive how it will look, but time will tell.

Has anyone had any joys with this guyt? He ask me to make an offer and I made a $100.00 offer plus freight and got NO answer, ZERO ZILCH response, does anyone know what his go is? Wideline do an R31 for about $200 so I figured $100 + frt was fair, but no response.

Josh, Can you make a template of the mount plates for your strut brace and post it to P O Box N89 Campbelltown North NSW 2560. Tah, Dennis

Zapata, For $3000.00 coversion cost they would have to g'tee stopping on a dime/sixpence/five cent piece. I can get 296 x 32 BNR32 GTR brake upgrades for a sh!t load cheaper than that. I can buy genuine BREMBO slotted rotors for $220.00 each & I have the calipers already ($400.00) the only drama for me is the mounts spacings & offset, but I think machining the stock hubs to allow the GTR rotors to go over the top will suffice. The conversion is old hat these days, but still many prefer to use VT Commodore 330 dia rotors etc. As our R30's only weigh 1100 odd kg I don't see the need to go bigger than BOLT ON DR's and EBC pads.

It cost me $375 what you gunna offer?

George, NZ$1.50 is a great buy, but I have 3 of them plus the later model supplement and I would guess most of us would have at least one copy each. Jenesis has the full on 9 or so chapters on sale if you can read Japanese.

Disco, The L20ET Turbo from the PNV is identical in every way except that it has an .48 rear housing. What are you telling me, should I go with it or get something else and have you looked at the other thing yet. Does it serve our needs?

Use Alta Vista translater to translate the web page www.r30.co.jp It will show you the majority in English, but the translation is very interesting in itself.

Powerplay Imports at Drummoyne will get you anything you want from Jenesis, so long as you have the dollars to back up your wishes. I recently got them to get me the rear spoiler from Jenesis.

Just to settle everyone down, it's out of an MR30 AND as I said it includes the half shafts/axles. I tried to buy the shafts only but he wouldn't sp[lit them just now, but I thought $250 was a pretty fair deal for an R200 including shafts.

Hi Guys, I have this FJ20 Turbo, it has a .63 rear housing and buggered if I know what else. What I'm trying to find out is where it came from. Is it off an S12 or Dr30 FJ20. Would apprecioate your thoughts and opinions along with some good old fashioned know how. Cheers, Dennis