Ghostrider

So your telling me because the British Museum website doesn't tell you the answer ................. You don't know. Is this correct?

OH! I forgot! Tighten the bleed nipple before taking the tubing off & to the next wheel.

The one man bleeder way! Equipment: Length of plastic tubing about 6mm ID, an empty bottle, clear preferably, old milk bottle, coke bottle etc, a rubber band and a piece of glad wrap & suitable spanner for cracking and re tightening the bleed nipple. Method: Attach the glad wrap by wrapping it around one end of the plastic tubing and secure it with the rubber band and place it in the clear bottle with a little brake fluid in the bottom, attach other end to bleed nipple, crack open bleed nipple by about 3/4 turn and begin pumping the brake pedal in the sequence given by sicksII until there is no visible air in the clear tubing. BUT REMEMBER NOT TO ALLOW THE MASTER CYLINDER TO GET BELOW HALF FULL The attached glad wrap makes an excellent one way valve, so that air cannot be sucked back into the system when lifting the brake pedal. Same deal with clutch.

Right on there! Nissan's own oil is 7.5W - ??? Not sure what high end it is, but not lower than 7.5. The American Zed guys recommend Mobil 1 10W-30, so that's where I'm going. It's $70/80.00 ~ 5L They consider anything heavier than 40 grade to be GLUE! The best part about the Mobil product is it's availability, it can be got at just about any Mobil service station if in trouble needing it a bit urgently.

Wouldn't matter for my 2 cents worth. Anything model specific, with any picture of any model, differenciates between those that don't have that particular model. I'm no graphics genious, but something Australian with Skylines and or SAU should be the winner. It should be somewhat anonymous.

That's an interesting equation, but if you were correct, please tell me which part of any Jowett Cars Ltd was around to develop the engine in his last new car in 1998. Sorry! but not quite correct!

You mean later, surely? But I'm punting this master cylinder/booster combination for the DR one. It's same configuration as '81/3 but has a 1" diameter master cylinder. I just had to source the front brake lines from an early model car, which I now have. As I'm going with a full on DR brake set up, front & rear. Fronts with slotted rotors and EBC pads all round. I have 15/16 master cylinders in the later configuration if anyone is interested. 2 from memory.

Well! I'm guessin they're all the same, but just thought you might give me some of the numbers to be sure before we start posting things back & forth across the tasman. The distributors have numbers on the sides, which identify them for series of manufacture etc etc and I'm looking for a spare, as the L28ET motor I bought only had the EFI dizzy, not the turbo one on it. Cheers, D

At least they're on HR31 Imports with what amounts to some real performance, but this guy wants to put them on a poxy old stock R31 and most people with any knowledge are just gunna laugh their heads off. But as he says, it's his car and he has the right to make a fool of himself if he likes.

No worse than a black R31 with the shit you want to hang on it. Remember your on L's and the law, even in SA just love clayton's hot shots like you want to be. Maybe you should at least learn how to drive before you become another idiot behind the wheel.

This is my engine bay. I'm a bit surprised with the diferrence. Cheers, D

Stagefumer, Does your car have the same radiator, size & configuration? Mine looks heaps bigger than in these pics. Cheers, D

Guess STEALTH is not in your thoughts anywhere eh!

Something like this! you trying to create???

If your keeping the FJ stock, I think your stock MR will do the job, but otherwise don't stuff about, go the whole hog. Get yourself an 044 Bosch Motorsport pump. About $220 on ebay. Cheers, D

What vintage is that? 81, 2 or 3?

153.162 to be accurate. 114.3Kw x 1.34 = 153.162HP

Oh! forgot to read your last bit. The idea was to drive the 2 x 10" subs with the 8020 (2 x 85WRMS) and mount the amp on the back of the sub box. I have an old style boom box (one of those things that had the subs, mid range and a horn tweeter in them) it measures at about 27L per side and if the Jaycar info is correct, I need to buy a 7" vent for it and it should be just dandy for 10" subs. I know it doesn't look real flash, but nobody sees it in the boot eh! As for CD's, didn't elaborate on that but have 2 x Kenwood KDC-C63FM modulated 10 stackers, 1 of which to go in the boot. I know FM modulated isn't the optimum, but it's the only way if I'm going to stay in vogue. Cheers, D

Thanks Rocketboy, I asked a similar question to this some time back and got next to no replies. As I said, I'm trying to stay in vogue with the era of the vehicle and the KRC-2000A head unit is the best I can find (post mount) that has features anything like newer models. My problem now is the interconnect cables, they have 5 & 8 pin DIN plugs, not RCA. This is not a real problem, as I have drawings to make them, any length I want and as Kenwood only use 4 of the 5 or 8 pins, the 5 pin plugs can be bought from Jaycar. Next on the menu, I went out and bought the TS-C1002's as I am not about to start hacking into door trims that cannot be replaced, so the dash provides placement of 4" and the splits have to be better than dual cone. Rear speakers are still on the list, I haven't bought them yet and am open to any and all suggestions. Finding any amps that are compatible to this now very old Kenwood system, is a major exercise in procurement. I have a collection of 3. An KAC-5020 rated @ 2 x 20WRMS, KAC-7020 rated @ 2 x 45WRMS and KAC-8020 rated @ 2 x 85WRMS. The 4" splits are rated @ 50W nominal, so I was planning to drive them with the 5020 and whatever I buy for 6 x 9's, drive with the 7020. The 8020 is huge in comparison to the other 2, about 300 x 250 x 60mm and rather difficult to mount anywhere even a little obscure. The idea of the Eq was simply to join them all together. I do have another option, which was the original plan. Drive the front 4" splits with the 2 x 45WRMS, use a set of Beltek mid mount 4" 2 way (splits, but in the same housing) driven by the 2 x 20WRMS as fill sound and have 2 x 10" subs in the boot, that could be taken out if I needed the space or offload some weight on comp days. Penny for your thoughts and ideas. Cheers, D

And your suggestion (claimed? bit of a joke) that nothing can beat an HSV, had nothing to do with it?????? I thought this was a Nissan priority forum, maybe you should try owning one and you might understand our passion.

This guy can't be too smart, because just about any ebay regular will know ALL the action happens in the last hour. His problem is, he thinks he has something more valueable than it is, Typical G V S sufferers ...................... Greedy Vendor Syndrome!

Elaborate????? I guess I can try. There are provisoes, but I guess I mean "the owner" parks his car and it stays where he put it, until he returns to pick it up again. All providing that Mr Tilt Tray operator, or Mr Hiab Crane Truck driver doesn't come along and want it more than the owner does and doesn't give a stuff what it looks like to get it. The best "Anti Theft" device I have seen in years is a simple fuel tap. Our modern day EFI cars all need fuel pressure to start, no fuel pressure, NO START. A simple fuel tap, actuated and then allow the engine to idle on for a time, will create a vacuum forward of the fuel tap and left over fuel. On restart, without pressure from the tank, the engine either won't start, or wont run for long & hence car stays where it's put. But there are many systems that will do this, from locking the gear lever, but this has a rather obtrusive hardened steel plate beside the gear lever console. I have a beaut little device that that clamps all 3 pedals together, it's made by an old guy in Dapto NSW and costs a whole bank breaking $20.00. Takes about an hour to set up, but after that just a couple of seconds to install. My take is, if you can't operate the pedals, the car can't be driven. That fair to say? The pic below, is the same unit on my mates S13 180SX. It comes with an attachment that goes under the accelerater, but he claimed it couldn't fit, so he cut it off, but installed, the clutch and brake pedals DO NOT MOVE. I don't have any statistics on the successes of the tracking type systems, but I do know that my company operated in the Macarthur area of Sydney and once the thieves got off the map (street directory) they might as well have been invisible. A number of times it was only local knowledge that allowed us to follow these tracked cars. Short of parking the car in some coccoon type impregnable force field, I believe the best system is one that shuts down the fuel, ignition & operating systems. Hope you now understand.

Where does ANYTHING say TURBO????????????????? Maybe you should go see OPSM and get your eyes tested. You want to talk VL Turbo Vs Nissan Turbo, I'm sure there would be plenty to argue the GTR was just a little bit quicker than your precious VL Turbo. And this is way off topic. You want to have a free for all GMH Vs Nissan or what ever, do it on your own thread.

And just for you "I think your dreamin" because I have driven both VL's & R31 Skylines, as they both share the same power plant. One thing for sure, if a stock VL & stock R31 were lined up against each other, the R31 would win every time, although the R31 is heavier.

Can't even contact the jerk and roast him anymore, unless it's directly concerned with a current auction ebay have blocked contact with other members, or at least thats how I found it yesterday.