Ghostrider

It still has 2 too many doors lol Cheers, D

Wasn't aware that it was possible in that style of dash. If it works it works, but you must have boost still on the facia. Cheers, D

This is the early model dash. It is a flat panel and therefore swapping gauges, other than the rear barrel is impossible, unlike the later model with quadrant type gauges. And the boost gauge is nothing more than an economy/vacuum gauge. Cheers, D

YEAR: 1984 MODEL: HR30 GT ES Paul Newman Version BODY TYPE: Coupe COLOUR: White 002/Grey 028

If someone offered me a million, I might consider it, but otherwise NO CHANCE. I thought we were going showing together??? Zeb's car would bre a great buy if he still has it for sale, he has a few extras for it now as he got some spares from me. The good part about our PNV's is the rarety, hard to go past something when there is only five, possibly in the country. He says 3 confirmed, well this is also correct, as we can't seem to locate 2 for some mysterious reason. All R30 series have now reached Cult status in Japan and getting one here in good condition is very remote. I know Power Play Imports have brought in a few 4 door DR's in recent months, but coupes are getting very scarce to import and the new laws are making it harder. Cheers, D

I just did a 2010km round trip to Melbourne & back. In this over 2000km romp I used just 210L of fuel. That's 10.5L/100km in my V8 Cressida. How many Infinities can boast that and for that matter Stageas as well. Cheers, D

Why buy a DR, I got an HR in Sydney, it's a bit rarer than DR's, it's a Paul Newman Version and when offered 10 told the guy he didn't have enough money. Cheers, D

That's it! Fabre something, they are also agents for Felpro head gaskets, which are needed if anyone ever contemplates an L31 build. Thanks A! Cheers, D

I'm using the adaptor plate that was standard on the R31 GTS1 on my L series, but a place in Campsie is the wholesaler. Give me a few days and I can probably come up with a name. Cheers, D

Remember when getting this, that their is 3 of them. The L20ET version is the smallest of the 3 and if your in Oz, get in touch with SWR, Stewart Wilkins Motorsport at Mulgrave (02) 4577 2400 He can supply you a high volume pump brand new, for less than you will get one ex USA 2nd hand. About $185.00 I think I paid for mine, and it's as big as Nissan's biggest. Cheers, D

Sorry Guys! never read it properly again. Twin Throttle Bodies ??????????? Still don't know why? THe Japanese, for economy used a dual stage throttle body (TB) on their L28ET's, pics attached. This TB never ventured anywhere other than Japan unless on an imported engine (just like this in my garage) Most of the Zed guys use a 65mm TB off the KA24E or RB25DE engines and with the right gear, 400rwhp can be acheived relatively easily, so before we go much further with this discussion, Can someone please explain how they intend getting more than this figure to the ground, on anything street legal, on a car weighing under 1300kg I have 245/45 x 16 tyres and I cant get more than 330 to the ground successfully. Cheers, D

Keep dreamin about that Ld28 crank from NZ, coz it aint going to happen as you think. You can buy an LD28 crank in NZ for the equivalent of AU$150.00, but that's where CHEAP starts & ends. NZ Post offices refuse to accept anything over 20kg and the LD28 crank bare weighes 22kg, packed about 23kg, so they tell you to send it airfrieght. Ring DHL and you will get a price of about AU$600+ and the freight alone cost is as a minimum 1 Cu Me and about AU$300 plus agents fees, plus duty, plus airport fees, plus, plus, plus. I did this exercise 3 times and the best price I could do landed was just under $900.00 and for that money you can get them here. Do some homework before jumping in head first, as the US site that talks about the L31 starts off by saying "IT IS NOT CHEAP" The LD28 crank needs to be re worked before it can go into an L28 block, so your $900 has just started on another dollar climb. Go talk to a guy that doesn't talk to me "Steve Lamb" in Melbourne, I think SLamb is his handle and he will tell you ANY L28 built right will rev harder and go quicker than any L31 and at a lot less dollars. As for the manifold, WHY????????? why use carburettors when you have EFI? Doesn't make any sense to me. Cheers, D

Rick, It's my opinion that s/s exhaust manifolds eventually crack and then in the worst possible place, which usually means R & R to fix it. Not many people will tell you their s/s manifolds are bad, but it's a fact, they break. The best turbo exhaust manifolds are cast and hence why stock L28ET/L20ET manifolds are so hard to get nowadays. And most custom made s/s manifolds are high mount and that's more for show than go. The manufacturers make the factory manifolds low mount for a reason and it's not to hide the compressor from the law. It has a whole lot to do with heat dispersion and keeping the engine bay as cool as possible. As for the longer runners, the 2 x turbo inlet manifolds I have here are about 1 inch longer than the stock n/a L24E inlet and the plenum is larger. Cheers, Dennis

Sorry! Tailshaft I'm not sure about, but if you have a dimension on the Auto one I'll measure the manual spare I have and we all will know in the future. As for gearboxes, there is less hassles staying with R30 boxes than any others. L20ET boxes have lower 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears than L24E, but have a higher 5th, so I use L20ET boxes for now, but have L24E, RB20DET & a US spec BW T5 for future maybe. Cheers, D

Paul, The best of XXEDDY clutches will cost you about $600/700.00 and they make them to handle 3 & 400 rwhp for 280ZXT's, but they are 240mm and to use that size you will need a 260Z 2 + 2 or 280ZX flywheel. Everything else will be the same as R30. But if your looking a fairly big HP at the wheels and your going to use one of the top range clutches, you might want to consider a VL Dunnydore slave cylinder, as they are 22mm (7/8) as opposed to the R30's 19mm (3/4) More fluid, less pedal pressure on big pressure diaphrams? Cheers, D

PM rsx84 as he is the latest to do the conversion. He did an RB20DET into HR30 conversion. He should have ALLLLLLLLL the answers you need. Cheers, D

It's not only the exhaust manifold you want, but the inlet as well and I guess they're getting a bit like rockin horse sh!t these days. Best you search the importers, coz my spares don't go round all that want them, so I guess I should keep em to myself. The longer runners of the turbo inlet manifold will make a whole load of difference, and maybe you should ask the guys on Hybrid Z in US, the freight can't be that bad to get a manifold here and if it's what you want and cant get it here, then money should not be the problem. Cheers, D

Get in touch with Meggala, he imported a couple at one stage and he might have some contacts. www.maggala.com I think is the web site address, it might be .au but don't think so. Send him an enquiry and I'm sure if he can help, he will. Cheers, D

Josh, I don't particularly want to part with any of it, as I have been collecting it for quite some time now. But if I have to at the time and you can't get it anywhere else I might be tempted, but wait till you can't get it somewhere else. You want a fairly basic setup then. OK! You need to get the inlet & exhaust manifolds from an L20ET, get a throttle body from any 280ZX, or 280C maybe, would have to check differences in size if any. A compressor from the FJ20DET will work wonders and I just happen to have one for sale in good condition, I paid about $300 for it so I'm open to any reasonable offer. And some fuel & boost control, maybe a piggy back Microtech as I spoke of. Probably set you back about a grand all up and you would have a package equal to or maybe better than a stock rex and at minimal cost. At under 10psi it should ber fairly quick and somewhat reliable. You wont need a shitter to try it on as everything is bolt on except for the wiring of the piggy back ECU. BUT! if you want real go, you want an P90 head & flat top pistons and lots of heat coatings and performance, real performance cost $$$$$'s, unfortunately. Yes I have the gauges and i will pack em up on Friday when I'm off next. Cheers, Dennis

When your ready to do this, lets do it right, I have the manifolds and the knowledge now for what you need, but in the mean time find yourself a P90 head and Flat Top Pistons. You will still be working with about 8.5:1 with a much better head. The P90 was the 280ZXT head. Your also going to need a 65mm TB from either RB25DE or KA24E from an U12 Pintara T or Ti, or Corsair Ghia. The manifolds are identical to those on L20ET's, the inlet might have slightly smaller plenum, than the L28ET but it's only marginal, it's the length of the runners that makes all the difference. The L20ET ECU would make everything a lot easier, but your going to need a loom as well as the plugs are entirely different. Probably a Microteech Piggy Back to control the fuel and boost will do the trick. Someone else that will help you is BenDR30, as he is in Adelaide and has a 240Z Turbo. I am doing a 2818 L28ET at the moment to drop into my PNV, and from that I expect about 300+ HP at the wheels. If that don't make you stand out from the crowd nothing will. Let me know when your ready and serious. Cheers, Dennis

I'm sure if the genuine cap was on the filler the car could be up side down and fuel wouldn't come out. As for an ULP neck restricter, I was entertaining 2 options, one comes in a Mitsubishi express van and it converts the filler to a screw type cap and it's only silver soldered into the top of the filler neck and is pretty easy to get out with a propane torch, the other is attacking an 1986/7 N12 Pulsar or Astra as the restricter is spot welded in about 150mm down the neck, unless of course you can buy the restricter assembly, a/mkt. The charcoal cannister is only to filter the fuel vapours as far as I understand. Cheers, D

AS far as I know the production cars never had graphics like that. Put www.r30.co.jp into Alta Vista Babblefish translater and select GOODS and you will find all copies of production decals. D

Hey George, If I put a V6 or better still a V8 badge on this, would it be similarly retarded? D.......

They're a bomb from there and Jap postage is worse than US. I was quoted on a GT guard badge and it went like this: Badge 2800 Yen, Buyers Commission 1000 Yen, Domestic postage to buyer/shipping point 1500 Yen, then International Postage 1600 Yen. All told for a badge that costs in Japan 2800 Yen, 6900 Yen (about AU$71.00) How much did yours cost??? Cheers, D

I'm sure I could russle up one for you, maybe we should get together and see what else we can swap.