Ghostrider

Thought you would have worked out the reason for this by now! D

I have just thrown this theory up in classics re FMIC mounting but this might be a better place for more open discussion. Has anyone considered, or researched the air flow into and out of intercoolers vs potential gain or loss of horsepower? As gas cools and I guess air is no different, it expands and therefore needs a larger volume of space to flow at the same rate/speed. If the piping in & out of the intercooler is the same my theory is that the air flow would bog down so to speak as the cooler air trying to exit the intercooler would require more space to flow the same as it was on entry and if a larger diameter pipe is used on exit but reduced to go into the throttle body, the air speed would increase (venturi effect) but volume would decrease creating a potential loss of HP. Any ideas people??????? Cheers, D

I can't see the compressor outlet on any RB being bigger than 44mm ID and as you say, you have reducers on both sides. On the inlet side of the coller it wouldn't be so critical, but on the outlet >>>> to the throttle body, if you have reduced the diameter it will increase the air speed (venturi effect) but reduce the volume of air flowing into the throttle body which would be a major concern for me and I guess loss of potential HP. D

There is something that most are overlooking and that is AIR FLOW! Don't all jump on me for this but it's something I'm researching at the moment. As air is cooled it needs a larger space to be able to flow at the same speed/rate. It comes out of the compressor in a relatively small diameter (VG30 is 44mm) into say (common) 50/60mm piping to the intercooler, as it is cooled the air expands and therefore needs a larger diameter on the outlet to keep the same air speed. Has anyone taken this into account when plumbing their intercooler??? It would be my conclusion (researching) that about 50 in and 60 out of the cooler would be a good combination, particularly when using a 60mm throttle body, but I see so many intercoolers with about 75mm inlet & outlets. Cheers, D

Do you have any contact details for this ECU builder/tuner as I would like to talk to him about maybe one for my L20/29et eventually? Canberra is only a couple of hours away from me. Cheers, D

George, What the f@#k are you doing about this You must wonder why we're so critical of you, you ask for help then dissappear into the dust and we don't know or hear from you for weeks & months. DO YOU WANT OUR HELP OR NOT Cheers, D

Just found this that might help everyone. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?F...23d801d1d80.jsp This link should give you all the Z - ZX turbo & non turbo schematics you will ever need. Cheers, D

But the front valance stone guard panel has gone too, between the front guards. That's what makes it obvious. The DR Iron Mask spoiler like yours, would have been a better option, it sits marginally lower and would probably cover most if not all the piping. Cheers, D

Sorry! but I think that looks POXY! Tells every man and his dog what you've got. Nothing sleeper, or stealth about that, but with a black bonnet as well I guess that says it all. D

Interesting??? Wonder what the 2 I had were before SLIDE Hi Flowed one of them??? Cheers, D

If the centre is free from the rim (bolted together) THE SKIES the limit, except for maybe your pocket. We have a guy in Sydney that will make anything, into anything, but bare in mind that a custom wheel from him will cost about $400.00 each, so at $200.00 per rim (inner or outer) it might be cheaper to buy a new set custom made ............................. maybe????????? I recently had these BBS Lorinser wheels modified. Had the 5 stud Mercedes pattern welded up, re drilled 4 x 114.3 & steel inserts fitted, 2 x new inners made widening an inch in and 2 x new outers to match fronts and all up it was less than a grand. I now have track rims (3 piece) and only need to replace what may get damaged, on each wheel. Not replace the entire rim. Cheers, D

Interested in item 4334. How much money including postage?

Your going to have a problem with this request, as we never saw L20et wiring diagrams or service manuals in Oz. I have 280ZX Turbo manuals and I think they are almost identical in motor wiring. I can copy these if you wish but your going to have to decipher the links between MR30 & S130 yourself. Cheers, D

PLease post pics of all R30 Stove Top Tail Lights

What are your plans? Maybe a VH41 in place of the J series, that should frighten the sh!t out of your mate, or maybe a VQ35, but for sheer sound and shock factor I would go with the V8. And they aren't gas guzzlers as everyone likes to think, my 1UZ MX83 Cressida just returned 10.88L/100 overall for 2754km Sydney - Gold Coast & return. On short cruise mode runs, eg Palm Beach to Grafton it returned under 10L/100 and for a 4.0L 32V Quad Cam V8 I think it's amazing. Cheers, D

If for a competition car with governing rules and allowances for driving lights it's a good install, but JC, you have an L Series that has both compressor out & throttle body in on the same side (left) and a virtual regular street car that needs all the lights it's got. Wouldn't you be best looking at a similar install to either OR1ON's or the small one I posted a pic of. I have an HKS FJ20 Drag Intercooler, it's relatively small, but flows about 600HP and that's far more than I'm going to have a need for. I need to modify the plumbing to make it fit an L Series, but that's not an impossible task. Cheers, D

Have you heard anything good or bad about the US made Megasquirt stand alone engine management system, as they can be landed in the country for about AU$500.00. Cheers, D

Royal Purple engine oil costs a bomb, but in all the tests, power tests done by the magazines, which it was featured always came out on top, but it's real pricy and not available anywhere. I chose 10W-30 Mobil 1 for it's availability as much as it's quality, as it's available from just about any Mobil servo. Cheers, D

There is probably an advantage using the L28ET ECU over the L20 in that the L20 probably has the speed restriction to 180kph that the US L28 probably doesn't have. I don't know either way but I want to do more than 180k as my speedo goes to 260k. Cheers, D

The turbo set up in the Canberra car is a bit agricultural, in my opinion. I think it can be done a lot neater than that example. Cheers, D

IF anyones interested, I have the copies of the A/Mkt Turboed Engineers report for L24ET. If you want a copy PM me and I'll send you a copy in the mail. No Scanner connected as yet so can't get it on here. Cheers, D

The only other thing that would cause some problems might be auto Vs manual ECU's. Cheers, D

Andrew, The pics below are fairly straight forward, The single ECU is from an L24E and it's the same as an L20E, or an L28E and has a single long plug, same as your own now! The tandem pic shows L20ET on top, and L28ET on the bottom and it has as Stagefumer says 3 plugs in total, as the long section on the ECU is split in the middle if you look closely. It's these ECU's that your looking for, but only if you wish to stay stock looking. If you want to do the mod thing, just use an a/mkt ECU and none of it's necessary, not even the idle valves as it is all controlled by the new programmable ECU. Cheers, D

Settle Ska, It was me and not Hugh that left that message, although he did see it before it was posted. What you guys don't know about Mr Bryant is this, he asks heaps of questions, sometimes a lot of sh!t, has asked me personally for help with parts and then disappears into the dust without a word. He has in Classics abused everyone and told us all we were a useless bunch because we couldn't solve one of his problems. When I last heard from him his car was OFF THE ROAD because his headlight combination switch was stuffed, I asked him for plug configurations as these combo switch assemblies come in 4 varieties. N12 Pulsar ET Turbo, Some Patrols, Early and late R30's and as he is in NZ I wanted to be sure which one he had before I sent it as I have found them all on R30 Skylines. Now this was months ago and now he's saying his turbo is stuffed, how come if he couldn't drive it with his light switch problem. He managed to solve a broken stud (#6 rear manifold) problem, without having to remove the engine, but as yet and after numerous requests to do so, hasn't shared his newly acquired knowledge as to HOW! We just think he could be more thoughtful and give some information instead of just taking it and then we might have more respect for him on all SAU forums. Some might have forgotten why SAU was set up, primarily because the Kiwi's (SDU) didn't want to know us. Cheers, D

For what it's worth, the US Zed guys recommend Mobil 1 10W-30 and they consider anything thicker than 30 grade to be GLUE! As the Qld Stagea guys know, or those that were at the rally in November do, my cruiser/daily driver is an 1UZ powered MX83 Cressida and I use Nulon 10W-30 in that at the moment, but! My HR30 PNV has everything MOBIL 100% Synthetic. Mobil 1 10W-30 motor oil, Mobiltemp 220 in the bearings, Mobil 75W-90 gearbox & LSD Cheers, D