Ghostrider

RSX84, Disc to Disc, same place, NO DIFF (use your own) $500.00, but that's quoted to me, I might get a better deal because I have bought a lot of stuff off them over the last few years. Come back to me if I can help in any way. That goes for all interstate guys that wish to buy through Sydney. I can probably organise freight at a reasonable cost in a couple of weeks, but would have to be picked up from the depot in each respective state.

RSX, That's gotta be bullsh#t, I bought an assembly off them about 2/3 years ago for $500 disc to disc and it included everything hanging off the cross member, incl R200 4.1 LSD. WHY? you want 4.3??? you planning on accelerating up telegraph poles. I have a spare Nissan R200 3.9 LSD, but not prepared to part with it just yet, and DR lower control arms, but again, not prepared to part with them either at present I will check for you and get back to you.

Anything is possible. Just that DR30 not HR31 struts would make it a whole lot easier. A fair bit of fabrication is needed otherwise.

MR & DR front callipers are NOT interchangeable, they are different mount centres and the DR calliper is bigger and has to go around a disc rotor over 20 mm larger in dia. and 4 mm thicker

DR rear are same as Z31. 290 x 10, but you will need DR rear trailing arms for them to be bolt on. As for the front calliper mounts, I was told by mates in Adelaide that MR are about 88 mm spacings, mount bolts centre to centre, where DR's are 100 mm centres. Mike, send me an email or private message and I will put you in touch with a guy in Adelaide that has done it already, or at least looked at it.

Initially, an RB20DET/HR31 gearbox and final drive 4.1:1 R200 Mechanical LSD with Cusco centre, approx 70/75 lb pre load, mainly due to having the Jenesis 260 kph Speedo. If it doesn't handle the power, which I am expecting to be the case, I have an R33 GTS 25t gearbox as backup, but with this gearbox comes a couple of minor problems, the most primary being it's speedo drive; IT'S ELECTRONIC and am yet to work out how I can convert the electronic drive to an analogue speedo. If it can't be done I will get an electronic dash cluster assembly and sell off the 260 Jenesis Speedo.

RB25 Turbo Manifold

I'm looking for an RB25 stock exhaust manifold as well, if anybody knows of one.

R33 and DR30 callipers have the same mount spacing 100 mm (4 inch), prior models like R31 and MR30 have 3.5 inch spacings. For a 4 spot conversion it is much easier to have DR front struts.

Crimmo, I only want the VG30 turbo for emissions and engineering, then it's off and on goes a Garrett GT35/40, FMIC, 272 cams, 550 injectors etc, etc.

The VG30 Turbo is bolt on to RB25 Manifold

YEH!!! Isn't it good that some sanity can prevail, I used to be in the Nissan SVD forum until recently, they're all mates and don't they stick together and gang up on newies, or not part of the click. Slip, I have a GTS1 oil cooler complete and I'm told it mounts behind the vents in the front air dam, drivers side. You think it possible to fit to R30 in similar spot? Exactly what brake set up did you settle for???? Maybe I think I should use smaller fronts, maybe R32 GTR (296 x 32) THIS WAS RECOMENDED or Z32 (280 x 30) and stay with the DR30 rears. I might investigate the R33 GTR rears (300 x 18) see how difficult they are to fit, but wheels and spacers will then have to be considered and my main thing was COST, was it worth the extra dollars to upgrade to vented rears. DBA ROTORS???????????????????????? I don't like the little YELLOW note they put inside the packaging "warranty void if used in race conditions or for racing" that didn't sit well with me, so sent them back and bought BREMBO for less money. When I get mine finished I'll give you a call, I will be taking it up to Brisbane for a run, I have friends at Gold Coast and Brisbane that want to see it.

I have an R32 manual, exactly what part are you looking at? Email me if you like [email protected] And how much for the VG30 Turbo and working??? I need one fot emissions testing/engineering

RSX84, I have a set of 5 spoke MONZA Racing Rims for my HR, 16 x 8 & 16 x 7, 3 piece, +38 offset and they fit under the rear just great. Cost me $500.00 with tyres, good enough for rego/engineering. After engineering, I am going to put a 20mm spacer onto the front hubs and get new inner rims made to widen the fronts an extra 1 inch inwards, making 8's all round, shod with Yokohama A-008 RS II's or A-032's or Dunlop D01J's, street legal racing tyres, 245/45 x 16. Should make it stick like sh#t to the proverbial blanket. My coilovers have 400 lb/in front springs and 330 lb/in rears, plus 25 mm front sway bar and 24 mm rear mounted on urathane bushes and semi rigid link pins made from 10 mm rose joints. The rear cross member and diff support are mounted using urathane bushes, all custom made by Noltec in Sydney at a cost of about $400.00. Lower control arms still have standard rubber bushings. Up front I have adjustable caster bars and urathane bushes, lower control arms have standard rubber bushings on inner mounts and have replaced the ball joint outer with adjustable rose joints making camber adjustment infinite, with the help of the adjustable strut top on the JIC's. I may have to change the spring rates after final weighing, more closer to completion, to create better balance between front and rear, with me and about half a tank of fuel in the car.

slip, Re your PS. How so? R33 GTR V Spec have 324 x 30 Front & 300 x 22 rear. How that much different to my 290 x 10 rears, as the ventilated 22 mm rears, (vents for cooling) considering I am stopping a vehicle about 400+ kg lighter than R33 GTR. With the back plates removed, allowing greater air circulation around the rotors, cooling would be enhanced and heat not as much a factor.

Slip, I don't want to get into a fight over this, but R31 standard rear rotors are 260 x 10.4. How do they even remotely compare to a DR30 rear at 290 x 10 and your current setup, R32 or equivalent is only 297 x 18. How can it be worth the $$$$$'s to convert a road car, from 290 x 10 to 297 x 18? You must rely a whole lot on your rear brakes. WE ARE talking DR30 rears, not stock MR30 rears. Even as a part time racer, Club Cars only do 5 laps of Oran Park + warm up and cool down, MAX of 10 laps at a time. Using slotted rears and EBC/Endless etc, etc, compound rear pads, they would be lucky to be up to full operating temperature by end of race. Even Datniss at Kingswood agrees the conversion wouldn't be of any great advantage over DR rears. I have mates with DR's and MR's that often do cruises in the Adelaide Hills, the MR has stock R31 brakes all round with EBC pads and the DR is stock and they have NEVER lost rear brakes through fade, due to excess temperature. The R31 brakes in standard form, are inferior to DR30's. I can understand you having problems with the standard set up, but we are not talking standard set up, we are talking a disc rotor similar in diameter to what you have now!

Brian, Is your master cylinder assembly the same as 83/5 R30's or same as 81/2? If it is earlier, I have boosters and 1 inch Tokiko master cylinders that you might find interesting. Send me an email of your m/c and brake lines and I can let you know if comparable. [email protected] Dennis

SLIP, We are talking about cars that finished production in 1985 and the PERFORMANCE version had single piston callipers both front and rear. As for 2/4/6 piston callipers, I stand by what I say. For ROAD USE the single piston calliper and DR30 290 x 10 rear brake set up is BEST. And for an EASY upgrade, change to slotted rotors & EBC or similar pad compounds. Please explain how or why one would go to the trouble & expense of adapting multi piston callipers and vented disc rotors to the rear of an R30 that would spend the majority of it's time cruising at 100 kph or there abouts. You talk performance cars having multi piston callipers etc, well the majority, probably in excess of 85% of the braking is done by the front wheels, so it would be common sense to improve/adapt different brakes to the front as I have. R33 GTR V Spec 324 x 30 rotors + 4 spot nissan alloy calliper. Rear is standard DR, 290 x 10 rotors etc. With brake bias hardware I can effectively balance the brakes how I please. I think this is a far better option than playing with rears above best available standard, particularly as the standard are so good. WE ARE NOT TALKING trying to stop from 200 mph plus.

RSX, Have a look on the firewall and your body/chassis number should read with prefix KMR30 or KHR30, or similar. Let us know what you have and we can go from there. Dennis

Brian, Ever considered putting the R30 IRS assembly into your TRX Bluebird?

RSX84, If your car is a DR30 and standard you have 274 x 22 front brakes, something I would be investigating, for a front upgrade, try Z32 fronts, 280 x 30 with the alloy 4 spot calliper. The 280 rotor only being 3mm each side bigger, at a guess, you might get away with the calliper mounting to the original mounts. The DR mounts and all current Nissan's past R31 have 100mm calliper mount centres. May be an interesting experiment if not after HUGE front brakes.

WHY WOULD YOU BOTHER??????? DR30 Rears are already 290 x 10 and the braking force is more determined by the leverage on the wheel (diameter of rotor). For a road car, and or part time track car, there must be heat get into the rotors and pads so as for them to work efficiently, therefore the SOLID rears are far better for road conditions. IF you wish an upgrade, change your pads to EBC Green Stuff on the front and Black Stuff on the rear, you will attain an effective increase in performance by about 35%. If you are going to the track, change the compounds again to Red or Yellow up front and Green on the rear. WHY YOU WANT TO RE INVENT THE WHEEL? My HR will have between 300 & 400 HP at the wheels and my rears are stock DR's 290 x 10 with EBC rear pads.

Thanks guys, I will check them out

Hey!!! Didn't anybody read my earlier post on lowering, #351????? Due to the lack of travel in the damper, to lower an R30 front and rear, it is necessary to use R31 Strut inserts because they have a 42mm shorter travel and R31 rear shocks have a 32mm shorter travel in the damper. But if you use good springs, like I have 250 lb/in front & 200 lb/in rear the travel nearly is obliterated, the springs hardly move. My Hr30 has JIC coilovers from Japan and are physically 50mm shorter than the corresponding front or rear strut / shock assembly and the fronts have camber tops on them.

Does anyone know of a place that has a guard lip rolling machine in NSW, preferably Sydney. And or someone to pump my guards a little.