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Rb25 Stuff Air Flow Meter , Stater Motor , + Bits


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ok i have bits and peices for sale

6 turbo rb25 stock injectors $100

turbo rb25 air flow meter $195

blitz air pod filter $150

apexi pod filter new $100

rb 25 manual starter motor $75

r33 right hand door mirror $30

turbo smart type 3 super sonic bov (black color one) sleeper series $300

turbo smart adapter for bov to suit r33 $65

gtr stock bov on piping still $50

stock r33 bov $30

all prices neg needs to all go

pm me if needed or u can sms me or ring 0422389935 can mms pics by phone if needed

ok i have bits and peices for sale

6 turbo rb25 stock injectors $100

turbo rb25 air flow meter $195

blitz air pod filter $150

apexi pod filter new $100

rb 25 manual starter motor $75

r33 right hand door mirror $30

turbo smart type 3 super sonic bov (black color one) sleeper series $300

turbo smart adapter for bov to suit r33 $65

gtr stock bov on piping still $50

stock r33 bov $30

all prices neg needs to all go

pm me if needed or u can sms me or ring 0422389935 can mms pics by phone if needed

whats the inlet size on the air filter?

  • 2 weeks later...


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    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
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