Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 Nissan Pulsar GTiR ForSale

-----------------------------------

Its an awesome sleeper to drive

Im selling due to needing to downgrade to cheaper car while i save for my next car that im importing so please no swaps as i

already have plans and that cheap car to drive. Thankyou..

No Timewasters or Lowballers will be ignored please

If you dont know anything about the GTiR heres a little info about them: Heres a link

http://en.wikipedia....an_Pulsar_GTI-R

My model is GTI-RA: (Alpha) aka RA / Road / Luxury = MODEL NUMBER: EBYNRVFN14xxxx

General Information about My GTiR:

- 140,xxxkms

- 5 spd manual PPG gearbox (straight cut gears 1-4)

- greyblue color

- interior in good condition

- 3inch from turbo to 3" decat-pipe/test-pipe to 3inch muffler with 4" tip (stock cat can be supplied)

- Hybrid FMIC

- Apexi SAFC installed and wired into the glove-box to keep out of sight from po po smile.gif

- Boost controller installed into glove-box but not in use

- Custom minilight Wheels wrapped in NEW toyo R1R's bought on 29/03/2010 (have receipts showing how many kms on them)

- Oil used: Motul 8100 Xcess (fully synthetic) + ryco filter changed at 139,650kms always changed 5000kms or less

- Run on BP ultimate Only for the last 4 months

Could be more and will add them later if i think of it....

The car is booked in for a tune on the 19th April.. so just under 2 weeks to go.. this will also be advertised on carsales/gtir-oz/SAU/gumtree/.. Priced as a cash sale.. 13.5k after tune, 12.5k without tune and without door painted....

Any comments saying what you think about it should be kept to

yourself unless your offering me through PM or calling me via mobile.. Prefer you come see what its like before you give me an

offer.. any stupid offers will be ignored

Plates not included in sale. new plates will be arranged upon sale

If you choose to buy and want it tuned a deposit will be needed

Rego will be extended 3 months soon

Washed and vacuumed every 3 weeks

Heater works well

All lights working

Paint fade on the roof

Second hand exhaust manifold with no holes included in sale

Door replaced and is a slightly darker color..

Thank You for your time! 0434 996 861 Jeremy PM, sms or call

Will post more Pictures up tomorrow night after work if it isn't raining

post-61050-1270643021.jpg

post-61050-1270643091_thumb.jpg

post-61050-1270643195_thumb.jpg

post-61050-1270643322_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315777-sa-nissan-1992-pulsar-gtir/
Share on other sites

bump, no interest? Maybe swaps for:

- CBR250 R/RR + $$ my way

- R32 GTR + $$ your way

- S15spec R + $$ your way ADM/JDM

- WRX

Throw any car offers but mostly interested in the above cars/bike

  • 2 weeks later...

getting bottom end checked out this week to see if its forged, not because of problems... no longer forsale.. may put it up again once its been tuned.. darn the dead car market :)

  • 2 weeks later...
swap for rx7?

No thanks man, got a mate that has fc for sale with bigger turbo plus other mods for 9.5k.. id be wanting 7k cash my way with your rx7

cheers,

Interested in cars with a trade value of 13.5k... Stag's, r34 4door, LAMS approved bikes or just cash

Still in workshop getting fitted a new alternator, exhaust manifold and dyno tune done.. will also have power its putting out (awkw)

No rush to sell till i get offered something i like

gayness... someone offer or buy it! its running perfect i just want to save money for something else like a gtr or r34 4door... any test welcome

Its been tuned and is running great.. good fuel economy and power.. 163awkw on safe tune (14psi) have chart to prove

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...