Jump to content
SAU Community

C210 Exhaust

Socrates
 Share

Recommended Posts

Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Regarding checking everything,

The plan is to check my valve clearances and adjust at next service with my mechanic friend (NA_Goodness).

In my L24 tappet noise/click thread, MAG86 and Daewoo explain how to do valve clearances so i'm set with that.

Ignition Timing is all good, was checked approx 1 month ago.

Only thing i don't know about is cam timing, I'll see if my mechanic knows anything about it.

I'm going to with 25W-60 oil for next service to minimise blowby as well as topping up gearbox oil (suspect it's low).

and also which of the following should i use?

Engine Oil Flush Just before oil change. (I've heard the liqui moly equivalent is better, anyone agree?)

Long Term Engine Treatment With New Oil.

Worn Engine TreatmentWith New oil.

Lifter Free and Tune-Up With New Oil.

Manual Gearbox and Diff Treatment Add to existing oil in gearbox only not diff.

Will the bottom 3 work together without any problems?

after all that i plan to use Total Fuel System Cleaner to clean out the fuel system.

Other things include add oil to spare diff and swap in and new fuel filter.

I think I have covered all i want to do so far.

coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

I've never bothered with any of the treatments you've listed. I'd choose a decent quality oil though for sure.

The cam timing is no biggie to check. Makes sense to do it at the same time as your tappets. Take of the timing cover and turn the engine over till piston 1 is at the top.

The big sprocket bolted onto the front of your cam can be bolted on in 3 different positions. Position 1 is for a new timing chain, position 3 for a stretched timing chain. The sprocket has a little notch cut out of it. When your number one piston is at top dead centre the notch on the sprocket will line up nicely with a little mark on the cam tower. If the chain has stretched the notch won't line up any more (I think the notch will be to the right of the timing mark from memory.)

If the notch and the timing mark don't line up you'll need too compensate for the chain stretch by unbolting the sprocket and repositioning it. If the sprocket is already on position 3 it's time for a new timing chain. Word of warning though, don't let the chain go slack at any stage, as there is a little spring loaded tensioner which will pop out of its home if you do.

The reason to bother with all of this headache is because your timing chain certainly will stretch as you start to clock up serious miles, and a floppy chain will definitely affect the performance of the car.

Good luck!

  • 3 weeks later...
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mech couldn't work out how to adjust the valve clearances, is it just one nut you undo and then move the rocker then tighten?

Service done as above but without long life engine treatment, no gearbox or diff work and used 20/60 penrite oil.

Pinion bearings are shot in my diff as well, i have spare diff to swap in (R180). On the half shaft bolts do i use a socket on the diff side and a ring spanner on the other? Tried with a mate with open ended and ring spanners and was slipping and wouldn't move. Should I spray WD40 on it beforehand?

thanks

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is your friend a Mech for a living?

Either he can't read a manual or doesn't know what an adjustible post with locknut looks like...pretty basic stuff.

Remove the rocker retaining springs

Rotate motor so heal of cam lobe is on the valve rocker arm

Undo the 17mm locknut and adjust the post with 14mm spanner.

Tighten locknut

RECHECK CLEARANCE

Refit spring (that way you know which are done)

I always loosened the locknut just enough to adjust the post because when you retighten the locknut the clearance can change.

I hope above is right (please feel free to correct people)as I haven't touched an L series in 30 years :-)

Edited by R34
Socrates Mentor

Socrates

Posted
  • Author
Posted

He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted
He's an apprentice and hasn't worked on L series before.

The gregorys manual and L24 service manual I had on the day were very vague on the details.

I have since found the info i am looking for.

Thanks for help

He's excused then :-)

Yeah Gregories are only good at street directories

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...