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Help On De+t

mjscar

By mjscar,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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dori34 Grand Master

dori34

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Yeh for the oil pressure I'm pretty set: T-piece into the oil pressure sensor and run a braided line from that, behind the block, and to the turbo.

As for the VCT, that's interesting that the R34 have a blanking bolt instead. Doesn't it run VCT anymore or something? But it's good to know that you guys have had no problem with going into the VCT.

The problem on a skyline is that the sump is a one piece, ie there is no sump pan per se. Thus, I've been told, it makes it impossible to try to remove the sump without taking out the engine because the oil pickup gets in the way. Unless I want to lift the engine a few cms and probably can just make it, but I don't know how much piping and shit I have to take off.

But what do you guys think about my earlier plan to try and get the filing out by other means such as magnetic oil filters with more frequent change, magnetic sump plug, and more frequent oil change? Do you rkon that will stop all the filing from getting through or am I missing something important?

you will get some of the filings out but not all of it. the only way to get it all out is to remove the sump and do it off the engine.

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mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

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Hey, just got home, had an insane day of work....like 6 hours more then I planned, really sorry, will try my best to get some done this wkend.

That's alright mate. I think I might have solved the problem by T-piecing into the VCT anyway. I'll post up some pictures once I've finalised it because I've only made the dummy and it looks like it might just work :D

you will get some of the filings out but not all of it. the only way to get it all out is to remove the sump and do it off the engine.

True. Thanks for the heads up. I'm pretty much trying my best not to go down the path of tapping into the block, so hopefully I might not need to worry about the filings

Edited by mjscar
WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Hey, this was the best I could do today as I have a heatshield I made to hide the turbo, gate, screamer pipe, etc... and the only way i can get down there is to jack it up and all that...

so for now i have the pic below, I know it is not much...

Also I will go through some old pics and I might have a few from when i was down there changing turbos.

post-36975-1276942500_thumb.jpg

mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

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Cheers for the pics WYTSKY.

By the looks of it, it seems that you either had a bung in the side of your block and you just used that, or you tapped into your block because your oil return is exactly where the stock oil return location is. Damn! But thank you very much nonetheless mate.

Does anyone have any pictures of their setup which uses the VCT as their oil return or other means as their oil return? Would be much appreciated.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted

My R33 GTS4 didn’t have an oil return bung (had a feed though) and had an alloy sump (AWD), I wanted to tap it but couldn’t get to it and didn’t want to pull the engine out, so I used the VCT return. I cut the metal VCT line short, put a T piece in with one end the same size as the VCT, but the other ends the larger size (the same as the normal turbo drain). I replaced the block's VCT fitting with the larger fitting used for the factory turbo return. I then cut the turbo drain pipe as short as possible, and ran a silicone hose (one that couldn’t be kinked) to the T-piece.

I have never had a problem, just make sure you have no inclines in your return line, it must always be on a downward angle (a slight level at the T piece etc is OK).

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
^Adam, thats the oil feed line, i believe he is after the oil return.

lol, I know mate, but look in the bottom right hand corner, thats the oil return line :P

Cheers for the pics WYTSKY.

By the looks of it, it seems that you either had a bung in the side of your block and you just used that, or you tapped into your block because your oil return is exactly where the stock oil return location is. Damn! But thank you very much nonetheless mate.

Does anyone have any pictures of their setup which uses the VCT as their oil return or other means as their oil return? Would be much appreciated.

Yeh i am pretty damn sure oil return was tapped... ie no bung, sorry thats all i can really remember.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted
lol, I know mate, but look in the bottom right hand corner, thats the oil return line :thumbsup:

Yeh i am pretty damn sure oil return was tapped... ie no bung, sorry thats all i can really remember.

fk my eyes i didnt even see that, thats the exact return i used :whistling:

mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

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My R33 GTS4 didn’t have an oil return bung (had a feed though) and had an alloy sump (AWD), I wanted to tap it but couldn’t get to it and didn’t want to pull the engine out, so I used the VCT return. I cut the metal VCT line short, put a T piece in with one end the same size as the VCT, but the other ends the larger size (the same as the normal turbo drain). I replaced the block's VCT fitting with the larger fitting used for the factory turbo return. I then cut the turbo drain pipe as short as possible, and ran a silicone hose (one that couldn’t be kinked) to the T-piece.

I have never had a problem, just make sure you have no inclines in your return line, it must always be on a downward angle (a slight level at the T piece etc is OK).

Awesome. That's exactly what I am trying to do now so it's good to know that somebody have done it this way without any problems.

While that's in the works, what spark plugs did you guys use? I read in the big +T thread that you had to run a higher rating spark plug or something so you don't run into problems. What did you guys end up running and what is the gap for them?

Thanks.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted
Awesome. That's exactly what I am trying to do now so it's good to know that somebody have done it this way without any problems.

While that's in the works, what spark plugs did you guys use? I read in the big +T thread that you had to run a higher rating spark plug or something so you don't run into problems. What did you guys end up running and what is the gap for them?

Thanks.

I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

+1. they have never given me any probs..

mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.

Sweet. So 1.1mm gap would be good for stock turbo running ~12psi with aftermarket injectors and some light mods?

Thanks guys. I'll get some tomorrow.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted
Sweet. So 1.1mm gap would be good for stock turbo running ~12psi with aftermarket injectors and some light mods?

Thanks guys. I'll get some tomorrow.

Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.

mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

Posted
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Posted
Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.

Roger that. Thanks.

mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

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Ok. Everytime I make progress, I always seem to hit a wall.

Now I'm having trouble hooking up the BOV to the intake. I can't find a place that sells the tubing that goes into the intake and the hose to join them up. Should I try to buy a stock hose + tubing or did you guys do something custom?

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)

hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!!

I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.

Edited by SKiT_R31
mjscar Enthusiast

mjscar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!!

I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.

Hahaha ok it's good to know I'm not the only one :P

You by any chance selling one of those piping? :angry:

If not, I'll try to hopefully find one from a wrecker or somebody from the forum. BTW, did you have problems with the ATMO bov? I heard they give you stalling issues or something.

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Never had any issues with stalling, I just didnt like it so loud. I only have a std piping through an R34 intercooler though, i think you'd have more issue with a FMIC since there is a much higher volume of metered air to vent.

PM me an offer on the piping, do you need a std bov? I can also shoot you a photo to make things clearer. (If you dont know what it looks like, as i didnt)

Edited by SKiT_R31
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

I think it's more to do with the AFM measuring air flowing into the intake, the ECU then making adjustments accordingly, and then a portion of that air is vented to atmosphere, but the ECU still thinks it's in the loop. The alternative being a MAP Sensor so the ECU can see the drop in Manifold Air Pressure.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly certain that's what causes the issues associated with Atmo BOV's.

The other issue with Atmo BOV's of course is that it's venting emissions that haven't passed through the cat converter therefore making them a defectable modification.

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