Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Just looking for opinions and maybe if peopl have had this problem, how they solved it.

So the car is r34 gtt auto- converted to manual running auto ecu still. 3inch exhaust, turbo back to muffler and can on the back. bleed tap -8-10psi. Front mount gtr style intercooler 100x600x300 (yes I know this is far to big, trying to sell to downgrade).

The car runs fine as is, occasionally creeping up to 11 psi, causing rich and retard, But for now I can live with that. Now i have bought an put a greddy imitation plenum on the car, yes I know they have there pitfalls, but for the price and a bitta work it was the option i have taken.

Now the reasons for putting front face plenum on, I wanted to tidy the engine bay up, and try reduce lag a bit. I'm also wanting to fit top mount and turbo etc. So my thoughts were to do this in stages so when things go wrong there's less changes to go over. That and I don't want to put turbo on till can afford ecu. And in my mind, using the factory sensors etc, not much is diffrent to the ecu, just a diffrent path for the air.

So the intake is on, with factory throttlebody, minus traction control, factory aac valve with adaptor, standard neo injectors. The issue is a big stall stutter at low revs, if you just give throttle a light touch, it dies, or if you try start moving etc bitta a flat spot, like a poorly tuned carb motor if you can understand. And after driving, the topend seemed a bit flat, but when I checked fault codes a knock sensor was unplugged, so i assume it was in get home mode. Haven't driven since plugged back in. Due to a rugby injury I havn't been able to work on it, and was just looking for sum input before i get into it.

Yes the tps is set to correct voltage, although not having traction control in there has thrown up fault code that its unplugged. Could this be an issue? If so how have ppl gotten round it? From the intercooler to the plenum I've run 3inch piping aswell. And the other area I thought would cause greif is the injectors. I've used the factory rail, but removed the dampner, and all the looped hard piping that feeds the regulator, again just to tidy it up looks wise. I have another complete factory rail there that I was gonna try.

Any advice or ideas to try would be greatly appreciated, and sorry for the novel, but time and time again I see ppl on here complaining about not getting a full description of the mods and problem, so I've tried to make a clear picture. thanks in advance for any help offered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326911-r34-front-facing-plenum/
Share on other sites

is you acc valve connected to the ic pipe pre throttle body and post afm?

search secert squirrel tweak for removing TC . it involves feeding e certian voltage into one of the ecu pins by way of some zener doides

Yeah the aac valve is plumbed in b4 throttlebody, was also thinking that mite be an issue if too big? Haven't been able to get the idle below 1000rpm with the adjutment, so thought maybe too much air? was gonna look into restricting it a bit? And thanks for your tip on secret squirrel thread, although i couldn't find that exact one, i found a related topic, which i got the gist of how to do it, so thanks very much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...