Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My mate just rebuilt an RB30 using the RB25 head, its running a t3/t4 garrett turbo. A turbosmart pro gate is installed.

The problem being is the car loses boost, at the moment it will boost to 18psi and radically drop to 14psi where it will hold. The boost controller has been changed from a HKS EBC to the simple turbosmart T-Piece, but this has had no effect.

Before the external wastegate was installed the motor would only hold at 12psi.

Any ideas you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated.

* The boost we want to run to the motor is a constant 20psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32780-help-losing-boost/
Share on other sites

I dont know sorry. It was a suggestion as a quick fix. Reallistically I think there is a problem somewhere else, as I can get well over 10lbs adjustment with my external gate and it holds fine - I am not sure what spring it has, but I have run as low as 10psi, so softer than the one your mate has.

How is the gate plumbed up? Was the gate new, and if second hand, did you have it checked out before fitting it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32780-help-losing-boost/#findComment-658434
Share on other sites

The gates plumbed up, it currently wastes to atmosphere, its brand new, and its been plumbed up to be controlled by the EVC, it was professionally installed, as well as tuned, after a smoke test they still cant find the leak.

I believe that the problem lays somewhere with the internal wastegate on the turbo not being disconnected correctly. Could this be possible?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32780-help-losing-boost/#findComment-659092
Share on other sites

What I dont understand is that it is making 18 and then dropping.

If it was internal gate, did they weld it shut, or wire it? If it still has the standard acutator in place, it is possible its leaking boost.

As for professionally plumbed, I have had some 'professionals' (they certainly charged like professionals) do some pretty ordinary things. When I had my gate first plumbed, he did it wrong and I had to sort it myself. That is only one example of several. Not that I am saying these guys didnt do a good job, but sometimes it pays to check the basics.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32780-help-losing-boost/#findComment-659531
Share on other sites

I had a Blitz SBC-iD EBC that had 2 modes.

Auto - Learn boost curve and adjust to suit

Manual - Percentage of max boost available.

The auto mode would manage to hold boost at 16psi up over 5500-6000rpm BUT it was struggling as the boost curve (as per the graph display) was a little wavy. The solanoids also showed that they were basically 99% closed over 5500-6000rpm in order to hold the boost I was asking it to.

The manual mode would have boost come up (16psi) and hold perfectly flat until around 5500-6000rpm it would then drop to around 13psi.

I've also had a VG30BB turbo that has a large .81 or what ever it is exhaust housing. Exactly the same thing. Boost drop over 5500-6000rpm. I tried both the RB20t 10psi wastegate and the VG30 6-7psi wastegate on the VG30 turbo.

The weaker wastegate (VG30) the most boost I could get the car to hold with a bleeder or in manual EBC mode was around 10-11psi, in auto mode it would hold ~14psi but not 16psi.

I think its got a lot to do with the strength of the wastegate spring not so much back pressure as back pressure is always going to be there. Tim from RPM did a comparison and saw no difference once on full boost between a ~.81 & ~1.01 with regards to back pressure in the turbo housing, it always hung around the 2 x inlet pressure. This was on a 900hp VL Turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32780-help-losing-boost/#findComment-659561
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...