Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Brand new to this forum, first ever skyline I have owned for less than a week,

It is a R33 GTS25T, manual

The car drives very well, its very smooth, but over the last couple of days, whilst driving, it randomly stalls. Basically the engine cuts off, I lose power steering and I have to chuck it into neutral and start it up again. The car is idling very smoothly at roughly 600-700rpm, theres no lag or misfiring, turbo kicks in well, nothing what soever unsuaul when driving it normal. I have no idea what is causing it, I am new to turbo cars and nissan skylines in general.

The car is basically stock except the following:

*XS Turbo exhaust

*previous owner had installed a HKS Fuel Cut Defender in 2007

*it has an aftermarket BOV

*K&N pod filter

I've done a search of the forums, but can't seem to find anyone with a similar issue except getting idling and stuff involved.

Any help would really be appreciated as to why this is occuring,

thanks

Is your standard BOV Plumb-back? or is your hose blocked? if its blocked... that could be causing it, your standard ecu isnt tuned for Atmospheric BOV

Edited by geraus

Although it looks more than likely that it's a BOV issue since you got an aftermarket one, I experienced the same stalling problem when I first bought my car because of the AAC valve being ridiculously dirty on the engine. Not sure if that'd be the problem but it's worth a look since it fixed my stalling issue straight away. Here's the link for the DIY info

AAC Valve DIY

Hey guys, thanks for the pointers

took the car to the mechanic to have a quick look at it, he stated engine is healthy and said to bring it back some time this week to get all the pipes cleaned including AFM, AAC. He also increased the idle rpm by roughly 200 or so its idling a touch higher - said to have a drive around and see if this fixes it in the meantime.

So went for a drive, and yes engine shut down again, lost power steering etc. =S

Have been driving it over the weekend abit more, and starting to notice that it has yet to stall on me when I dont touch boost and instead shift at 2500-3000rpm. However did a run with some boost, and a couple minutes later instead of stalling I saw the battery light come up on the dash and lights dimmed as if it was going to shut down but then it went away.

It did the same thing yesterday, didnt shut down but battery light came up, and that was again after i hit some boost.

So I don't know if its coincidence or if its something to do with the air flow whenever I hit boost?? I was reading everywhere on the forums and it appears that there is a big no to atmospheric BOVs, and I'm thinking now to definitely remove that and put the stock one back on.

Maybe that, and cleaning the AFM & AAC may do the job?

  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally took the car to the mechanic late last week and got the following done to it:

- got the aac cleaned/throttle body

- afm cleaned/tubing

- blocked off existing atmo BOV and connected back the stock BOV

mech said the aac and afm was massively dirty and flithy!

car is running sweet now, has not stalled over the last week which is great, and stock BOV noise sounds so much better than the fully sick whooshes and fluttering i was getting from the previous set up! i do use it as a daily..

but yeh thanks guys for the help, fixing those seemed to have fixed my stalling problem (fingers crossed it has) !

  • 2 weeks later...

hey how has the fix gone?

I'm like totally in the same boat as you - just got my 97 S2 Gtst a few weeks ago, but only that this has only happened to me just twice.

I hope it worked out well for you because I was worried it was a serious mechanical issue.

And its not nice when you rolling in a parking lot, car is moving, then you gotta restart the car in front of everyone.... :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Mate check your air flow metre, take it to a spanner put a computer on it, I wasted 700 on other stuff before I did this 1st thing I would do. My car was stalling randomly in any condition I took it to one place they had it for 6hrs and nothin the other place had it in 5min

my two coin

Cam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...