Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Im new to the forum and recently bought a nissan silvia s13 from sydney that has ran out of rego and it has been overdue for more than 3 months. Im currently living in NSW Newcastle, i brought the car back here and tried to get a name transfer but it was declined, even though ive got the Rego renewal papers from the previous owner.

I was told to get a blue slip before i can get the car registered. I went down to those assigned workshops that does blue slips, they told me to get an engineer's certificate to proof that my car is road compliance. But the thing is my car has certain modifications on it.

Modifications:

New CA engine

Open Pod Filter

BOV

FMIC

Lightened FW + Heavy Duty Clutch

Bigger Turbo (but not very obvious)

big ass EXOS (changed to 2 1/2inch exos)

Damage:

Rear RHS panel dented

Im not sure if these can obtain a pass from engineers, if fellow mates here can help and give me some pointers of what i should do i really appreciate it, or let me know if there is any engineers around my area that is not so by the book in terms of check, would really appreciate it

take it to get a blue slip from a workshop that arn't tossers, usually stay clear of chains stores like Ultratune, take it to a private guy.

ive tried calling heaps places regarding blue slips inspection... my car's previous engineer juz got back to me with regards the engineering certificate... he is going to send me a copy of it... but im not sure if it will still be valid for my current blue slip inspection... this blue slip registration is giving me hell of a headache...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...