Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys its come time to sell my Golf Mk3 everdayer. Its done me well. Iv only had it for around 10 months or so. Body is excelent for a 93 model car, had 36,XXX ks on the clock (cluster was replaced when new engine was built for the car) does great milege. 2 weeks driving (almost 500km) for 40 bucks. Never misses a beat, runs perfect, taken care of. The only owner before me was my uncle and grandfather (my uncle built the engine).

Reg till Oct 11.

Specs: 94 VW Golf GL (rego sticker sais 94)

manual

2.0LTR SOHC injected

Power everything (windows, mirrors, steering) also has ac and heater, everything works

Rodney jane racing rims 15inch with perelli tyres

full roadworthy condition

JVC headunit, Cadence 3way 6" speakers Kenwood sub and amp.

Central locking with remote keyless entry

Only downside to the car is there is a chipped tooth on the reverse gear and it makes a ticking noise while reversing. Still works fine, its a common problem with these cars.

Anymore questions? dont be afraid to ask.

PH: 0421 986 981 - SMS and Calls welcome.

41008_10150252583895176_807030175_14608250_2945432_n.jpg

58984_10150252583940176_807030175_14608252_3525499_n.jpg

57978_10150252583970176_807030175_14608253_7731135_n.jpg

46645_10150252583995176_807030175_14608254_5490012_n.jpg

59047_10150252584060176_807030175_14608257_3093754_n.jpg

58514_10150252584095176_807030175_14608259_6536902_n.jpg

$6,000 ONO. Will considder reasonable offers.

Edited by LTHLRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349942-fs-93-vw-golf-mk3-gl/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...