Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Because Sr's are crap

I totally disagree, ive owned an SR powere 180sx, and they are awesome engines. But in my opinion, 6's sound WAY better than 4s, please let us know how u go as i am wanting to do the same to either a 180sx or S14.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/page/2/#findComment-728220
Share on other sites

I wanted it because i like torque.

in my case it didn't weigh very much as when i put it on the boat, it was chock a block full of stuff (eg tyres, rims, full set of suspension, new brakes kit, spare parts etc. then the back seat was taken up with another rim and tyre) it was seriously packed full. and it came in under 1300kgs on the scales.

i didn't do the conversion, was going to do a similar one, but with a new job and stuff didn't have the time. here is a shot of the engine bay.

AA021.txt

it has been mounted very low in the engine bay (in fact sump is a bit too low to ground without some form of protection). and with coilovers it handles extremely well.

i gave a highly modded 180sx a run through some windy hills at very excess speeds (right hand side of the speedo). kept up and past him quite easily.

makes for a very different car to drive. is very easy to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/page/2/#findComment-728636
Share on other sites

Hi MSRB26, I have weighed 2 180/Silivia/200 with RB25's and 1 with an RB20. Never weighed one with an RB26, but there is no reason why it would be much different than the RB25's. Sure the RB25 gearbox is heaps heavier than the SR20 gearbox. But a cast iron block, 6 cylinder is way heavier than an alloy block 4 cylinder. Plus, with 3.5 cylinders in front of the wheels it really stuffs up the weight distribution.

I think some of the guys have missed the point. The Nissan recognition papers for an S14 manual says 1,263 kgs. The Nissan homologation papers for an R32 GTST says 1,280 kgs. By the time you stick an an RB in an S14 it's gunna weigh a lot more than the R32. So I'm not saying don't put a hot RB in a S14, do up the SR instead. What I am saying is get rid of the S14 and get an R32 to put the hot RB into.

Plus on an R32 GTST M Spec you don't have to upgrade the brakes, hubs, diff, drive shafts etc etc. Lastly, an R32 has double wishbone front suspension, way better than the struts will ever be on an S14. It will also have better weight distribution regardless of the total weight.

Hope that clarifies my previous posts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/page/2/#findComment-729010
Share on other sites

yeh im not saying im against your point, as i wanted an R32 originally but couldn't afford at the time (wish i saved a bit longer and waited).

But i like the car for what it is not what it weighs (its rare in its own respect, and personalised tastefully).

but yes it does give me the shits cos i have R32 brakes sitting in my garage, but can't put them on because i have 3 piece wheels and they don't have any clearance for the calipers, even after shaving the nissan off. and the CA18 brakes are woe full (worse than the brakes on my bluebird trx of '84 vintage).

every car has pros/cons out of the factory that you either have to live with or change.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36081-rb26-s14/page/2/#findComment-730029
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...