Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the time has come to realy think about my performance mods on my r32

i was going to stick with the RB20DET but i think it would be

much easyer to extract the power i whant from the RB25DET

so my questions are as follows.

do the rb25 gearbox mounts line up

do i just unplug the r32 ecu and plug in the r33 ecu

or do i have to rewire the whole car

and most importantly

do i have to go through reagency

mel i know you have the rb25 in your 32 so what can you tell me

what other pitfals may i come across

dose any one know any one who can help me with this project

i have herd of some one who ran the rb25 with the rb 20 ecu

but i dont think it ran verry well over heating and such

any help would be much apreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Skidmark give me a buzz or pm, ill be able to help:) Ive got some stuff to get you started if thats what you want to do. hope this helps Matt Regency shouldnt be a problem if you have made sure all is done properly. Or just put the rb20 engine cover on the rb25 and not many people will be able to tell the differance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-722817
Share on other sites

matt

i was reading a diferent thread about putting a rb25 in a r32gts4

they had trouble with the sump clearing the cross member

is this the same with the GTST

i have also had a couple of people tell me to leave the rb20 in it

because you can get more top end power out of the rb20

than you can get out of the rb25

what do you guys think do you think this is crap

i do because even if you did get that power out of the rb20

it would be unstreetable

input please :boobies2:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-724153
Share on other sites

you can get more top end power out of the rb20

than you can get out of the rb25 .....

Did you ask them where/when/how? It would be interesting.

That extra 0.5L will give you a bit more torque off boost and bring a turbo onto boost a bit quicker. From what I have seen RB20 and 25 can make similar power (peak) with similar mods, just the RB20 needs a few more revs to do it. But you can never deny that cubes do make a difference, that would be like saying turbos dont make a difference or revs dont make a difference, of course they make a difference - everything else being equal.

The other side is, if you blow up an RB20, they are a very cheap engine to replace, and with a 2530 hanging off them.....killer. Alot less hassels, with registration (just inform regency of the engine swap), changeover cost, resale. You can buy a 2530 new with all the bits to fit it (bolts, adaptors, oil and water lines, etc), for 3K.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-724421
Share on other sites

skidmark, dont know about the RB20 being stronger, it does have a lower CR, which helps it handle more boost. I am making over 300rwkw with an rb25, stock internals - its strong enough for me:)

If you have the dollars (around 4.5K) just buy a RIPS 3L engine, with sump already adapted. His GTS4 is running 10s with this engine, certainly scare a few GTRs:p

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-725383
Share on other sites

mate if u only want 250rwkws, then keep the rb20. The price to put a rb25 in ur car then get 250rwkws will prolly cost double to that of just slappin on a decent turbo onto the rb20.

theres a good chart going around which allows u to choose a turbo for a hp level. Being a rb20, u want a good turbo like hks that can spool up quicker then others. For 250rwkws, somethin like a 2835 would maybe be ideal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-725813
Share on other sites

unfortunalty the 2530 will puff short of 250rwkws. however as steve already mentioned, due to the rb20 having a lower CR, the engine wont mind some more boost over 1bar, and hks turbos are really efficeint still after 1 bar, so it may get really close thou.

The 2835 will get u over that mark, but it will be a lot more laggyier then the 2530, and being a rb20, u will feel it alot.

Perhaps speak to a few about a 2540, a bit laggier then the 2530, but should also be a trade off over the 2835. Otherwise choose a 2530, and do other mods that may help u get there, like adding toluene sometimes when u want to use all the power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36255-2532/#findComment-725870
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • How many of you guys run the synchro os giken set and at what power? Do you then also use the billet plate?  How is it launching with it, any dragy times from 0-60? 60ft?
    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
×
×
  • Create New...