Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gunmetal Grey

Engine:

RB26DETT built by JHH Engineering

Wiseco 86.5mm forged pistons

Total Seal gapless rings

Tomei adjustable cam gears

Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket + full Tomei gasket kit

Tomei oil restrictor

Tomei type B valve springs (head match ported)

ARP head studs

ARP rod bolts

ACL Race series bearings

Gates timing belt (brand new)

HKS 264/272 9.6mm Type B Spec cams

HKS 2530 turbos (match ported + std manifold match ported)

HKS stainless dump pipes (match ported)

Sard 720cc injectors

AEM adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Permacool fuel cooler

Greddy twin entry fuel rail

ARE Surge tank, half inch lines, 2 x Bosch 044s + Walbro 550HP lift pump

PWR 45mm radiator

CES 3.5” mandrel exhaust + front pipes

ARE 90mm intercooler + custom stainless piping

Greddy Type R BOV

Splitfire coils

Nismo 65 degree thermostat

High Energy Custom 6.5 litre baffled sump

Petersen Catch can

Earls external oil cooler + braided lines

Electronics:

Haltech E11V2

Eboost EBC

Hurst line-lock kit

Intercooler water spray

Omori gauge consol – oil temp/pressure + water temp

Nismo EGT

Nismo 260kph dash

Razo turbo timer

Suspension:

Bilsten Shocks with matched Whiteline F&R springs (Sydneykid's kit)

Whiteline front & rear sway bars

Adjustable front camber/castor kit

4:11 GTR rear diff and axles

Custom 2 piece tailshaft by Driveline Services

Custom rear cradle bushes

Cusco front & rear strut braces

Wheels:

Xyphos (Japan) 2 piece 17” x 8.0 front 17” x 8.5 rear

328 mm DBA 5000 series slotted rotors (front)

Brand new RDA slotted rotor (rear)

UAS caliper brackets (front)

A1RM pads front & rear

Braided ADR approved brake and clutch lines

Other:

Nissan GTR aluminium bonnet, N1 lip + bonnet latch

Nissan GTR grill

Nissan Front bar

N1 front bar vents

Greddy radiator deflector

R33 RB25DET gearbox

C’s shortshifter

NPC 1000HP rated twin plate clutch + flywheel

All fluids recently changed - car has easily run low 11's.

Modification plate also fitted by engineer.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=10997377&__Qpb=1&Cr=6&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__No=15&__N=1216 1282 4294963846 4294963593 393 412 900 1466&silo=1011&PriceTo=412&seot=1&PriceFrom=393&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=26&__sid=12CE81DCAB24

Sau members $15500 ono.

Please contact me on 0423830508, Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374120-r32-gts-t-rb26/
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...