Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Can anyone help?

I am after an "idiots guide" to these following numbers. I know its for changing the boost but it will allow you to change both?!

I appear to have put my manual "somewhere safe" and can't find it.

Thanks in advance...

G.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38185-regarding-powerfc-boost-control-kit/
Share on other sites

The second numbers you have highlighted is the Duty Cycle. This is basically the amount of time the solenoid stays open (bleeds) in realation to the amount of time it is shut and allows boost pressure to the wastegate. It is expressed as a percentage.

The minimum you can set (from memory) is 10%, which would be sending boost pressure to the solenoid 90% of the time, bleeding 10% of the time - it would be used for low boost pressure.

The maximum you can set is 90%, which has boost pressure going to the wastegate 10% of the time and bleeding 90% of the time.

If the boost is spiking (I would put money on it in your case, those duty cycles seem very, very high for those boost pressures), you need to adjust the duty cycle down.

If the boost is lazy, or it isnt reaching full boost, you will need to adjust the duty cycle up.

If you change your boost pressure up, adjust the duty cycle up at the same time, if down, adjust the duty cycle down. The power fc has a self learning mode, which will optimise the solenoid actuation for optimum boost control BUT, if you are miles out of the ball park, it wont have a chance. For example, if I adjust my boost pressure up by .2KG, I usually adjust my duty cycle up 4%. then just monitor on the peak hold, if it is spiking (more than .1kg) I will adjust the duty cycle down by 2%. If it isnt getting to boost, I adjust duty cycle up by 2% at a time, until it is just spinking a little (less than .1kg) - from there I let the power fc learn for itself.

If you ever need a copy of the english manual (although its for an RX-7) one is available on line at he apexi usa website, look under electronics, then documentation or someting like that.

  • 2 months later...

Is it also true that running boost above 1 or 1.2 bar using 3rd party boost controller and PowerFC will cause your engine check light on the dash to light on, because PowerFC could not monitor the boost anymore? The only remedy is using the dedicated Apexi boost control option that connects straight to the PowerFC, is this true or not?

The 255 value is the 'learning value' isnt it?

Not quite sure what it corresponds to so I think it is more of an arbitrary value than anything else. I can tell when mine is learning cos you can see this value changing & then it stays put once it has learnt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...