Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya there :)

I'm selling my RB26 as a long motor to make way for a built engine.

Motor has done ~84k kms with even compression across all cylinders.

When the car arrived in Oz it had an oil cooler fitted straight away. I've done some track work with it and have decided to step up to a built engine. I have a 9L baffled and extended sump on the engine at the moment so there's no oil starve issue.

It's been tuned by HITman (a personal friend of mine for nearly 15yrs) with a Haltech Platinum Pro and made 317kw at the wheels on 19psi with -7s (standard intercooler/cams/MAFs and airbox fitted)

With a screwdriver handle holding open the airbox we saw over 330kw, whoever says GTR airboxes aren't restrictive need to buy a screwdriver and do some testing...)

It does have the following:

N1 water pump

Yellow Jacket coils (not even 1000km old)

Adjustable cam gears with new Gates belt and idler replaced a few thousand km ago.

Nismo thermostat

Also comes with coil cover, not shown in pics.

This motor is still in the car and can be driven before buying (no deposit on you, no ride, simple)

Obviously no turbos, exhaust manifolds, clutch/pressureplate.

Next problem is that I'll be away until Jan 16th, so don't expect any replies other than the random email till then. I'm sure we can work something out if you're super keen.

$2000, as it's in the car and you can drive it before it's removed. Better than a 'stab in the dark ebay special' with a photocopied dyno sheet!!

Mark :)

post-28560-0-46918000-1324101356_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-02027100-1324101350_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-95208600-1324101417_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...