Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I purchased an R34 in Brisbane and drove it up to Cairns over the weekend. (gah in terrible weather)

I have been browsing the oil sticky, and got a bit lost to be honest.

I park under my apartment complex, and I live in the tropics so it doesnt really get cold or have cold starts.. just floods ;)

Can anyone recommend a good oil to use for an RB25 NEO motor? The vehicle has done 118,000 km's.

I just drove it 1700km so I would like to get a service.

I appreciate the help!

Cheers,

Shaft

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/395501-new-r34-which-oil-recommended/
Share on other sites

I'd say fully synthetic 10W 40, not too many cold starts up here (i'm in cairns also). autobarn has royal purple for $100 4L, or there are people on here who may be able to post it for less.

Sweet Ishman, cheers for the tip mate.

I spent some time digging deeper into the oil sticky, and many people were recommending the 5L Sougi S 6000 which is now discontinued.

They have replaced with SYN-X 6000 which I found at Auto 1 for $49.95 :)

Who do you get to service your ride in Cairns? I was just going to take it to Leigh @ SVS Vehicles, but I know that will have a price tag.

Cheers,

Shaft

Yeah SVS aren't cheap but they do a decent job, and they have a 4WD dyno which was a plus for me as I needed some tuning. Just keep an eye on what they're charging for parts etc. that's all I'll say. I think labour is $110/hr now! Has anyone recommended another workshop?

  • 2 weeks later...

Do your own servicing IMO, it's about building a relationship with your car :P

Any 10W40 weighted oil will do you good. How often you intend to change it will determine if you should use semi or fully synthetic - Semi's good for no more than 5, Fully Synthetic use no longer than 10000km's.

For a stock/mildly modded R34, you could head to Repco or the like to get all the bits needed for servicing...

- A 10W40 weighted oil (Your car will tak 5L with an oil filter change. It's good practice to replace the sump plug washer after a service too, or you could try an oil drain valve.)

-6x NGK BCPR5ES-11 Spark Plugs (Copper cores. I use them and they go strong to every service - gap your plugs before installation).

-A Z145A Oil Filter if at Repco, or you could go genuine (they are much smaller and easier to remove :P)

- An in-line fuel filter (slips the minds of a lot of people doing their own servicing)

- A tasty glycol-based coolant

- Brake fluid - Check if it's needed first (DOT 4 or 5.1, not 5.)

- Power Steering fluid - Check if it's needed

That's pretty much all the stuff I touch every 5 and 10k. If you don't wanna run around getting stuff, use ebay for fluids, and websites like Kudos Motorsports (QLD Based) for parts.

Check out this link for Skyline manuals - There's a cool checklist for servicing in there somewhere too...

Service Manual Downloads...

Do your own servicing IMO, it's about building a relationship with your car :P

Any 10W40 weighted oil will do you good. How often you intend to change it will determine if you should use semi or fully synthetic - Semi's good for no more than 5, Fully Synthetic use no longer than 10000km's.

For a stock/mildly modded R34, you could head to Repco or the like to get all the bits needed for servicing...

- A 10W40 weighted oil (Your car will tak 5L with an oil filter change. It's good practice to replace the sump plug washer after a service too, or you could try an oil drain valve.)

-6x NGK BCPR5ES-11 Spark Plugs (Copper cores. I use them and they go strong to every service - gap your plugs before installation).

-A Z145A Oil Filter if at Repco, or you could go genuine (they are much smaller and easier to remove :P)

- An in-line fuel filter (slips the minds of a lot of people doing their own servicing)

- A tasty glycol-based coolant

- Brake fluid - Check if it's needed first (DOT 4 or 5.1, not 5.)

- Power Steering fluid - Check if it's needed

That's pretty much all the stuff I touch every 5 and 10k. If you don't wanna run around getting stuff, use ebay for fluids, and websites like Kudos Motorsports (QLD Based) for parts.

Check out this link for Skyline manuals - There's a cool checklist for servicing in there somewhere too...

Service Manual Downloads...

Your A legend man ive been looking for a english manual for ages ! Japanese is no help to me :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...