Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I'm selling my car and parts I've got a heap of parts for sale and a car, now the car has been EPA'ed so probaly only good for track or spares.

Please email me at [email protected] if you want something and the list goes,

NEW Kazz 2 way solid LSD in housing 0.004" backlash professional built by Britek motorsports (Jason Brights old team) with oil never used the oil is still in the can! $2000 or make an offer

Splitfire coil pack new in box $500 neg

New Ali 2 core rad $150

Apex I power fc with controlled $1300 neg

Camber arms D2 new $150

Hydraulic handbrake new $150

D2 track coilovers used $1000 neg

D2 8 piston front brakes used $1000 neg

D2 6 piston rear brakes used $1000neg

Or front and back together $1800

18" black 5 spoke with chrome rims $900 tyres nbg

17" crome rims $700 tyres ok

Will post pics later or can send some

Piggy back system for standerd computer (boost)

4 stage boost controller

Turbo timer

Make an offer on above

Whole car which is all good bar front bar (broken)

And hasn't been started in 8-9 months? $4000

With all parts mentioned

I'm sure there's heap I forgotten so just ask I've got boxes of bits n peices and really can't remember everything I have anyhows email me every is negotional

Cheers Chard

Car sold still have diff, camber arms, black Speedy rims (225x25x18? front 265x35x18 rear), handbrake, ali rad, Apexi ecu, splitfire coilpacks and to add to the list

Gates Racing slid cam pulley both intake and exhaust (blue) brand new to suit RB-20-25-26 with Power grip belt $250 neg

And the rad comes with 2 high pressure safety caps and hoses (blue) and the rads mirror polished 50mm core

all prices are as listed in first post

And Broom everything listed is for a R33 mate

please email me at [email protected] if you are intrested in any parts I dont get to check SAU much or msg me on 0420828295

Cheers Chard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...